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41 minutes ago, fiatslug87 said:

You can still get them to work. I zip tied them to the frame and the flap just hangs there.

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Yeah, my concern mainly lies with the portion it looks like you cut on the sides. The covers I have are in fairly decent condition and are probably worth more to someone not all cut up.

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6 hours ago, fiatslug87 said:

Nothing was cut.

Are you sure? The Velcro portions on the covers are vastly different on the black vs the burgundy that came on the seats. I'll go take pictures in a minute.

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I looked back through your post, you have the seats without the bolsters all of mine are the “wingback” seats. I guess they are different, sorry for the confusion.

IMG_0869.jpeg

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5 minutes ago, fiatslug87 said:

I looked back through your post, you have the seats without the bolsters all of mine are the “wingback” seats. I guess they are different, sorry for the confusion.

IMG_0869.jpeg

I noticed that while I was looking at my seat covers and comparing to the earlier picture you had posted. I did find some local upholstery shops that seem to be pretty highly rated so I may inquire about what they can do.

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It is news to me as well that not all covers are interchangeable. I have a set of tan seats that are same as your maroon seats. I also have some 4 door XJ bolstered seats that have the same lower cover design as the folding seats.

 

What year was the XJ you got those black covers from? It may be that early on the folding seats and non folding seats had different covers.

 

Black seats are very rare you will have a very hard time finding another set of covers. That pattern was only used by AMC. Chrysler switched to something else. I would take them and the seat frames to an upholstery shop and see if they can modify them to work correctly. 

 

I saw @89 MJ posted recently about some non bolstered navy blue XJ seats. Maybe you could take some pics of those seats and see if they are the same as the black or maroon ones above.

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I sure did and I’m getting ready to install them in the truck soon. Let me know if there’s anything in particular you need pics of. 

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2 hours ago, Eagle_SX4 said:

It is news to me as well that not all covers are interchangeable. I have a set of tan seats that are same as your maroon seats. I also have some 4 door XJ bolstered seats that have the same lower cover design as the folding seats.

 

What year was the XJ you got those black covers from? It may be that early on the folding seats and non folding seats had different covers.

 

Black seats are very rare you will have a very hard time finding another set of covers. That pattern was only used by AMC. Chrysler switched to something else. I would take them and the seat frames to an upholstery shop and see if they can modify them to work correctly. 

 

I saw @89 MJ posted recently about some non bolstered navy blue XJ seats. Maybe you could take some pics of those seats and see if they are the same as the black or maroon ones above.

I'm not sure what year XJ they came out of, as I bought them off someone in a FB group in 2018. I would assume 84-85, I don't see any tags or such to confirm and I'm not sure if they came from the same truck the dash I bought from the same person did. 

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7 hours ago, 89 MJ said:

I sure did and I’m getting ready to install them in the truck soon. Let me know if there’s anything in particular you need pics of. 

Just a pic of where the back seat cover attaches to the bottom of the back. Like was shown here.

 

11 hours ago, damianriel said:

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11 hours ago, 89 MJ said:

Here’s the best photos I could get without having the adjustment handle. Looks more like the black seat cover. 
IMG_6532.jpeg.f0e27fe6f694a77040d6b81e583e1e3f.jpegIMG_6533.jpeg.95a616d9d52b30f8bb7f4a7b2e312746.jpeg

It appears to me the 4 door seat frames are narrower than the folding frames. I'm not in a rush to get this resolved but it's something I'll have to think about in the future.

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I'm beginning to believe my quest for a clean black interior is a fools errand. The dash I bought on eBay came in today and to be frank, it's less than stellar. I was under the impression it was in much better condition than it is. It's partially my fault for not seeing that half the mounting screw holes were cracked, and will need plastic weld repair. However I did notice that there wasn't a picture of the top of the dash in the listing. Upon chatting with the seller he assured me it was in good condition and free of cracks, the actual verbiage described it as "perfect" This isn't entirely incorrect however was deceptive, as there is a VERY obvious repair to the vinyl. 

 

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Now, I still have the dash I bought in 2018, in which the underlying structure is in much better condition, however it appears the vinyl dried and cracked while in storage in RI and I didn't notice until I unpacked it in AZ. I'm thinking I may use the eBay dash temporarily while I look into getting the original dash refinished by either JustDashes.com or possibly a local upholstery shop like @Limeyjeeper had done.

 

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I would have liked to keep it OEM but I'm pretty sure I now have over $1200 spent on trying to get a clean dashboard for the truck and I want the next cent I have towards my fools errand to be a well spent one.

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  • 2 weeks later...

After helping my buddy do a myriad of mods on his Tacoma, including lift, wheels, tires, and wiring some of his electronics, I decided to actually make forward progress on the truck seeing as every step I've tried to make this year has somewhat just blown up, I decided to do something easy. Or something that should have been. 

 

After stripping the Novak motor mounts from my old truck I definitely mixed in the hardware with other random hardware. Instead of guessing I just decided to reach out to Novak and order a new hardware kit. Seemed pretty straightforward, however the hardware I received didn't match what was listed in their directions. It also seemed to be possibly missing some washers and 7/16 bolts. Quick run to ace and I got everything installed. 

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I did have to run a tap through the blind holes in the frame, as they had been gunked up pretty significantly with the rhino liner that was sprayed on the chassis. The hardware Novak included was m10x1.5 so that's what I tapped them with, I don't recall if this is the original threading for these holes, but the tap definitely did tap into the steel. The bolts appeared to tighten just fine, and nothing stripped out, but I am considering drilling these holes out with a 23/64ths bit and tapping to 7/16-14. That should give me a lot more bite if I decide to go that route.

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4 hours ago, fiatslug87 said:

How’s the WilderNest going? Start a build thread for it.:L:

Honestly, I tore it apart and put it aside, seeing as I don't have a working truck to put it on, it wasn't at the forefront of my mind. Once it starts rolling a bit further I'll make a thread for it.

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Tore my 96 Hvac box apart tonight as I don't see a reason to not rebuild it while I have it out. Compiling a list together of parts I'll need and appear to have located copper/brass heater core replacements, likely TSM. I plan on ordering the upgraded evaporator from jeepair, they do have a Heater core listed as in stock as well so I may ring them and see what that's about.
Additionally, the hardware that mounts the HVAC box to the firewall, As I have lost or misplaced one. And I'm eyeing this foam to replace the foam on the blend doors.
I still need to figure out what foam I'm going to use around the heater core and around some of the vent mating surfaces.
image.png.482c2cf1f5e2db355ab46f850bcb8cd0.png

 

I am planning on using this Repop 97-01 kit for the firewall seals, and I suppose I'll let everyone know how that goes. 

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I ended up using Armacell adhesive backed foam tape for the blend door. It adheres very well and even though I opted to install it on the blend door with the HVAC box in place, it worked well. It also has an anti-mirobial coating on it for what it's worth. It's nice because I was able to get it in 10 minutes and not have to wait a few days for the mail. It's about 1/8in thick.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Armacell-2-in-x-30-ft-R-1-Foam-Insulation-Tape-TAP18230/100539553

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I've decided the best way to move forward with this build is to set myself minor goals/objectives to move on to the larger objective of having a running driving truck.
That being said the current objective is to get the motor fired now that it's sitting in the bay. This weekend's step towards that was building an LS compatible fuel system.
I'm lucky to have great stores near me that I can go to and close my eyes when I swipe on $400+ of AN fittings and line. SDHQ and Speedway motors are going to be a danger to my bank account. 

So I landed on a full AN fuel setup, using a corvette style filter regulator. I also decided to add a fuel pressure sensor at the fuel rail so it can be monitored by the Holley Terminator X. To start, I added Compression AN fittings to the fuel pump hanger.

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I have to say, I probably wouldn't recommend this method. After cutting off the barbs, there isn't enough length left before the bends for the face of the hardline to rest against the AN fitting to get a proper seal. Thus fully relying on the ferrule to seal the fitting. This may or may not hold pressure. I do have a second fuel pump hanger assembly, and found Racetronix's Barb AN adapters. I have both of the appropriate sizes on order and will report if I think it's a better solution, or if you should just hose clamp the line to the hard line. 

I used Speedways' LS1 AN filter regulator kit, mounted in the factory filter location with a spacer. I may need to work on this further as the single bolt holding it on doesn't seem ideal.
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At the engine side, I had quite the housekeeping to do. I needed to install my Amazon special LS6 PCV valley cover, swap the -8 feed fitting to a -6, add the pressure sensor housing and sensor, and shorten the Holley fuel crossover line that was obnoxiously long. Starting at the valley cover, I discovered the rear knock sensor was pretty rusty, and broke both the plugs unplugging them, so a quick trip to AutoZone and I got a Dorman replacement kit. I used the good AC Delco sensor that was in the front, and installed the new sensor and harness. I did seem to run into a clearance issue with the PCV output and the ICT Billet steam port crossover kit I'm using, so I'll have to come up with a solution for that. After getting the intake back on everything else was pretty straight forward.
image.jpeg.897798c3c95a07e61a4e3d3aeffb157f.jpegimage.jpeg.0d3a040a4e880a58fe287cd86de4ec14.jpegimage.jpeg.48ac77e9e219b1840d70e5457c9f2704.jpeg


image.jpeg.e84fb4d2f9831d13ac30bc0848420630.jpeg

 

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14 hours ago, damianriel said:

I added Compression AN fittings to the fuel pump hanger.

 20250628_164328.jpg.a44f53302a3a4a67a80e9cb24f33cd8d.jpg

I have to say, I probably wouldn't recommend this method. After cutting off the barbs, there isn't enough length left before the bends for the face of the hardline to rest against the AN fitting to get a proper seal. Thus fully relying on the ferrule to seal the fitting. This may or may not hold pressure. I do have a second fuel pump hanger assembly, and found Racetronix's Barb AN adapters. I have both of the appropriate sizes on order and will report if I think it's a better solution, or if you should just hose clamp the line to the hard line. 

I am interested in how this will turn out. I am looking for a good solution to connect AN lines to the factory sending unit.

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1 hour ago, Eagle_SX4 said:

I am interested in how this will turn out. I am looking for a good solution to connect AN lines to the factory sending unit.

As soon as they arrive I'll be sure to post my feedback here, in the meantime I've tried to start trimming out any unnecessary bulk from the engine bay harness I have, which is a 91 HO harness and man do they have some confusing things going on here :drool:

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