Front axle help in my 88 MJ

[vanquishings]

5 hours ago, Pete M said:

very weird.    have you asked C+M about it?  maybe this is a known issue?

 

Have an email out to em, now. 

20 minutes ago, howeitsdone said:

Make sure to measure your yoke on each shaft to verify they sent the correct stub shaft. Regardless, that Spicer U-Joint is correct for the application. I feel like I remember having to install in my inner shaft first. Could have been just me, but there was a method to the madness.

 

The joint doesn't install head-on like you have in the photo. It's more diagonal and off to the side. A very tight fit. I remember it took me a while to find the best way when I originally did mine. Notice how the yoke gets thinner as you get closer to the shaft itself.

 

I actually initially installed the u joint on the inner first, before realizing it wouldn't fit. Turns out I can't return it once it's been installed. I figured there was a method to the madness. I've been playing with em for a while now. The original goes in fairly easily, but I can't even get close with these. I can't help but wonder if it's the wrong stub, but the box is right. So I'm really stumped. I suppose we'll see what C&M says, if nothing else, I can just try another from ebay. 

[zomeizter]

I'm late to the party but if large tires are in your MJ's future, go with a 'moly shafts kit and be done...price is high though.

[vanquishings]

C&M got back to me. Assured me that it should work. But I just can't be bothered to spend more than 30 minutes trying to convince u joints to fit. I hope if you guys try in the future, your luck is better than mine. 

 

Found a cleaner used unit, we'll see if my brain still tries to fit the square peg in the round hole. 

[Pete M]

did you send them photos?  because that clearly doesn't work.  

[vanquishings]

21 hours ago, Pete M said:

did you send them photos?  because that clearly doesn't work.  

 

I did, same photos I posted here, actually. They asked what ujoints I tried, then told me to return it. 

 

Let's hope I have better luck with the used one. 

[gogmorgo]

I’m curious what they come back with after they get it, if they update you that is. Did you take any measurements? I’ve occasionally had ujoint yokes bend on me, although never enough I couldn’t get the ujoint into it. There’s a possibility it got squeezed a bit in shipping I guess. 

[vanquishings]

18 hours ago, gogmorgo said:

I’m curious what they come back with after they get it, if they update you that is. Did you take any measurements? I’ve occasionally had ujoint yokes bend on me, although never enough I couldn’t get the ujoint into it. There’s a possibility it got squeezed a bit in shipping I guess. 

 

I doubt they'll follow up. Sadly, I didn't take any measurements, I was just about over it when I put it back in the box. Probably should have, but the newer one from C&M did look a bit different than the one I pulled off of the truck. the C&M had a flare on the inner edges of the yoke, and mentioned it was for a wrangler. No XJ/MJ mention, but it was a 40611. 

 

Used one should be here in friday. Crossing my fingers. 

[PIKE]

Kind of late here too. I just went through my 89 D30 axle. To change to a one piece axle I went with 1997 ZJ CV shafts. At $45.00 a Piece what did i have to loose. They come stock on a V8 Grand Cherokee. I have a 97 Grand Cherokee V8 and used the same shafts and they have been going good.. Never had a problem. That's why I decided to use them for my CAD delete conversion. No problems at all. Must say I am not a rock crawler, but I do have 33r10.5-33 on my MJ. So far great.

 

FYI  You have to remove the ABS tone rings. They are pressed on, no big deal.

 

Any way just my 2 cents

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=534817&cc=1182237&pt=2288&jsn=919&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2Fl2QOXSJubi7WSpUmUSdg3OxWOs2f5z9h422EONy36O0PjCuaadDqI1r86y%2FvJ1lBqy8eOR0sg7BszdZN4sjtsowhx3trFNVkOC9ShEq4yvq9czhtKw7wHUD4tkai4dC6ChdwdIF6%2Blha7y3cZF0JchS%2Bisd9bp8CJWvYpk1E%2Fhj3sa08%2FC%2Fj%2FbHeocDrxJN5lDcbhXQOhnOg4SPFhGgwR2TbbN1ScHVqLCU5ts8z0q76uU7F%2FchlNUPDT09Qgcm%2BXDoY7KIeaFmmz0MXsjCHgp%2Fgem2jgs0S5wwSY7eXEKdMbHm8mRNK7SHggWde4G%2FiRFz3ZjY9tolWl0vT%2F1%2FKpwGN%2BZ1KWsZYmO1yGRFJ%2BWsWQ%3D%3D

[zomeizter]

1 hour ago, PIKE said:

Kind of late here too. I just went through my 89 D30 axle. To change to a one piece axle I went with 1997 ZJ CV shafts. At $45.00 a Piece what did i have to loose. They come stock on a V8 Grand Cherokee. I have a 97 Grand Cherokee V8 and used the same shafts and they have been going good.. Never had a problem. That's why I decided to use them for my CAD delete conversion. No problems at all. Must say I am not a rock crawler, but I do have 33r10.5-33 on my MJ. So far great.

 

FYI  You have to remove the ABS tone rings. They are pressed on, no big deal.

 

Any way just my 2 cents

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=534817&cc=1182237&pt=2288&jsn=919&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2Fl2QOXSJubi7WSpUmUSdg3OxWOs2f5z9h422EONy36O0PjCuaadDqI1r86y%2FvJ1lBqy8eOR0sg7BszdZN4sjtsowhx3trFNVkOC9ShEq4yvq9czhtKw7wHUD4tkai4dC6ChdwdIF6%2Blha7y3cZF0JchS%2Bisd9bp8CJWvYpk1E%2Fhj3sa08%2FC%2Fj%2FbHeocDrxJN5lDcbhXQOhnOg4SPFhGgwR2TbbN1ScHVqLCU5ts8z0q76uU7F%2FchlNUPDT09Qgcm%2BXDoY7KIeaFmmz0MXsjCHgp%2Fgem2jgs0S5wwSY7eXEKdMbHm8mRNK7SHggWde4G%2FiRFz3ZjY9tolWl0vT%2F1%2FKpwGN%2BZ1KWsZYmO1yGRFJ%2BWsWQ%3D%3D

Yeah man, I almost went this route before I pulled the trigger on the chromoly kit, but I got a good bundle deal at the time so I could not pass it up. One of my homies did what you did to his XJ and the process was easy peasy...

[vanquishings]

Forgive my ignorance, but what exactly is the process of doing a CAD remove? Is there a write up somewhere? You just swap the inners/outers with the $45 ones and remove the ABS ring? Can't be that easy....

[zomeizter]

In my case, I removed the CAD axle, the sleeve, the fork, the vacuum box and all related hoses. I left the support bearing in the axle housing, installed new seals and moly shafts and covered up the CAD hole with an aluminum plate included in the kit, done.

[Pete M]

I think there's a writeup in the link in my signature.  and yeah, it is that easy.   hardest part is usually getting the old stuff out if it's rusted or original. 

[PIKE]

https://www.amazon.com/SKF-11800-Small-Style-Diameter/dp/B00CLIWKAM/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1ZRALXCPDEMW8&keywords=SKF+11800&qid=1665669080&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIwLjAwIiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&s=automotive&sprefix=skf+11800%2Cautomotive%2C159&sr=1-1-catcorr

 

This is the seal you need for the passenger side of the differential. Getting it installed was the hardest part for me doing the conversion.

[ratrapp]

exactly.you need to remove both axles to pull the carrier out to install the seal.its not super hard,just time consuming.

[Andy in Pa]

If you left the grease seal from that u-joint cap on the u-joint trunion, believe it or not, that is enough to not allow the trunion already through the cap hole NOT go in far enough for the opposite side to slip into place.  Once the grease seal is off, the slight edge of the center "black" part of the u-joint has to go into the cap hole, and it slips into place.