Results using POR-15?

[yungupgrade]

Wanted to coat my frame with POR-15 ever since I bought my truck so it could handle harsh New England winters, curious to see if anyone else used it and saw good long lasting results after application.

[Pete M]

our trucks rot from the inside-out.    protecting the interior of the frame is key.

[howeitsdone]

POR-15 is a great product. Your preparation will determine if it works or not. I've sprayed over old metal and the rust has seeped through over time. If you take the time to sand it all down and apply it properly then no reason it shouldn't last many years. Of course, many folks in that area will also recommend to coat with something like Fluid Film to increase protection during those rough months too.

[AZJeff]

1 hour ago, Pete M said:

our trucks rot from the inside-out.    protecting the interior of the frame is key.

I second this, after dealing with rust on many vehicles over the years.

 

The hollow compartments in the chassis of the MJ (such as the rocker panels) have dust/road dirt seep in slowly over time (they are not airtight).   Then, moisture from rain (and salt water in areas that use salt on the roads) also seeps in, and the dust absorbs this moisture, creating "mud" that holds the water/salt against the steel.   That's the perfect way to get corrosion going.

 

The secret is to:

(1) make sure all hollow compartments are free to drain of dust/dirt/water as much as possible.  The designers do provide SOME drain holes, but the often are too small to do a good job.

(2) flush the boxed compartments as best as you can with fresh clean water to drive out the dust/dirt/salt, etc.

(3) consider using some sort of protective coating in the hollow boxed compartments if you live in an area where moisture/salt is present during a large portion of the seasons.

[ghetdjc320]

18 minutes ago, AZJeff said:

I second this, after dealing with rust on many vehicles over the years.

 

The hollow compartments in the chassis of the MJ (such as the rocker panels) have dust/road dirt seep in slowly over time (they are not airtight).   Then, moisture from rain (and salt water in areas that use salt on the roads) also seeps in, and the dust absorbs this moisture, creating "mud" that holds the water/salt against the steel.   That's the perfect way to get corrosion going.

 

The secret is to:

(1) make sure all hollow compartments are free to drain of dust/dirt/water as much as possible.  The designers do provide SOME drain holes, but the often are too small to do a good job.

(2) flush the boxed compartments as best as you can with fresh clean water to drive out the dust/dirt/salt, etc.

(3) consider using some sort of protective coating in the hollow boxed compartments if you live in an area where moisture/salt is present during a large portion of the seasons.

 
 

And once the above are all done, store the vehicle indoors as much as possible or at least under a carport/canopy, 

 

I personally used Fluid Film Black and coated all the insides of the frame rails and crevices once they were clean and dry. The factory application of seam sealer was also quite poor. If you ever do a full tear down of your rig, be sure to replace and add seam sealer as appropriate. On my current build I have por-15’d the entire fram and underside of the cab the coated with raptor liner. This was a lot of work… The insides of my frame have been thoroughly cleaned. I will use Eastwood internal frame coating followed by cavity wax/fluid film black.  

[yungupgrade]

7 hours ago, Pete M said:

our trucks rot from the inside-out.    protecting the interior of the frame is key.

Is there any methods/ products you have in mind to get into the frame? I was only going to use por-15 on the outside.

[yungupgrade]

7 hours ago, howeitsdone said:

POR-15 is a great product. Your preparation will determine if it works or not. I've sprayed over old metal and the rust has seeped through over time. If you take the time to sand it all down and apply it properly then no reason it shouldn't last many years. Of course, many folks in that area will also recommend to coat with something like Fluid Film to increase protection during those rough months too.

I was planning to use the metal prep and degreaser they sell before I apply the product

[motownXJdad]

9 hours ago, Pete M said:

our trucks rot from the inside-out.    protecting the interior of the frame is key.

👍

[Pete M]

Fluid Film is about all I can think of.  and it wears off so it needs to be applied every year before winter. 

[yungupgrade]

1 hour ago, Pete M said:

Fluid Film is about all I can think of.  and it wears off so it needs to be applied every year before winter. 

Looks like it comes with a 360 snake sprayer which is good. Does it treat rust that's already formed or do i need to find another product to deal with that

[Pete M]

there's no magic way to keep your truck from slowly rotting apart if you drive it in the salt.  the above items and procedures are bandaids.  if your truck already has rust issues, then my suggestion is to bandaid/patch when needed and wash whenever possible, then drive it year round.    if your truck is clean, just don't let it touch salt to begin with.  buy a sacrificial winter beater.  

[75sv1]

I am planning to use the Line X undercoating and their bed liner:

Undercoating | LINE-X (linex.com)

 

I did use some type of undercoating from JC Whitney in the late 80's on my Bricklin. I haven't driven it much since and not in the snow. It was X2000 or such.

 

I also have Agri Guard to try. Also, there is a product called Waxol from Canada. Sort of like Fluid Film only like a wax. I think there are similar products.

The old rubber or asphalt undercoating works, till it don't. Then it traps moister and rusts out. 

[75sv1]

Corrosion Protection | Waxoyl USA (waxoyl-usa.com)

[AZJeff]

4 hours ago, 75sv1 said:

Corrosion Protection | Waxoyl USA (waxoyl-usa.com)

That is very similar to the "Ziebart" undercoating that my dad put on his cars back in the 1960's and 1970's when I lived in Illinois.

 

It works pretty well INSIDE a hollow, boxed compartment.  It tends to be abraided off an external surface that gets water, salt, sand, dirt, etc. thrown up on it.  Because of that, it needs to be reapplied every couple of years.

[54bobby]

about 12 or so years ago i bought an 86 e30, that's the BMW 3 series from 84 through 92. it had about a 12x12 rotted out spot in the spare tire well in the trunk. bought the POR15 kit that comes with POR15 along with the prep solvents and a large piece of fiberglass matting. i cut out the rot,  sanded the entire area, used the prep as per instructions, then soaked the matting with por 15 and applied it over the gapping hole in my trunk. threw on 2 more coats and that patch is as strong today as it was the day i put it on. the stuff is a little pricy but you'll never have to do it again. if i remember correctly, a couple of the guys over on the e30 boards rigged up some kind of a wand on the order of a pressure washer wand, thinned out the por 15, drilled a few small holes in what ever they had with boxed frames and went at it spraying everywhere the gould get access to by drilling the por 15'd the drill holes they made. straight up, if you encapsulate your ride with that stuff and leave it parked at the DOT salt storage facility. in ten years you'll have a roller ready for a new drive train and interior. 

[JonnyB]

https://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-aerosol-black-14oz.html

 

I was looking at doing something like this, I originally saw it as a European product but obviously Eastwood would make one as well.

[ghetdjc320]

On 8/21/2022 at 1:19 PM, JonnyB said:

https://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-aerosol-black-14oz.html

 

I was looking at doing something like this, I originally saw it as a European product but obviously Eastwood would make one as well.

That stuff works well. Used it on 3 projects now. I went over that with a good cavity wax and never saw any more rust in the frame. 

[pizzaman09]

The best undercoating I've come across is the PVC undercoating that came on the entire underside of my 99 BMW M3.  It was a northern car it's entire life and I drive it in some of the worst of the salt belt every winter.  It has some rust but the undercoated areas have held up phenomenally.  That said, all the advice listed above seems spot on.  One will never stop the rust unless you don't let the salt water get to it, it's just a question of slowing it down.

The Comanche is the first four wheel drive vehicle I've owned, and I plan to let it stay parked all winter to prevent it from rusting.  It's darn clean for having 250k miles of living in Pennsylvania.  I can see the inside of the bed above the wheels has surface rust that hasn't made it through the metal yet, I'd like to keep it that way.