Replaced RMS. Now oil leak really bad.

[howeitsdone]

As title states.

 

Yesterday I replaced the RMS. Ended up putting a new FP oil pan gasket on too. Lightly RTV'd the recommended places and let it sit since yesterday to cure. I put oil in today and took it for a drive. The oil is now coming out pretty badly from between the bell housing and the dust shield. You can just watch it drip out quickly and steadily.

 

The RMS cap was fine, no damage. Put back properly. Torqued to 80ft/lbs.

 

I'm at a very confusing loss here. I can't think of any other variable that would cause this issue.

[howeitsdone]

2 minutes ago, saveevryjp1998 said:

Did you remember to put the metal band clamp back on over the 2 bolts?

 

Yes, it's there on the outside as it should be.

[howeitsdone]

I only put RTV on the oil pan gasket where the RMS meets and the front two corners just as FP recommends. I'm not getting a leak from the pan, it's coming from between the bellhousing and dust shield. I replaced the pan gasket previously and worked just fine.

[JMO413]

I gotta ask. Did you put it in facing the correct way? I might know from experience unfortunately upside down installing a seal mistakes are easy.

[howeitsdone]

13 minutes ago, JMO413 said:

I gotta ask. Did you put it in facing the correct way? I might know from experience unfortunately upside down installing a seal mistakes are easy.

I installed The same orientation as the original one. If I remember correctly, the lip faces the rear. 

[Pete M]

took me 4 or 5 attempts to get the thing to stop dripping that first time. 

[howeitsdone]

Removed everything and reinstalled. Upper seal is fine, no tears. I did add a little RTV to the edges this time on the lower. I know that's required in late-model 4.0s, but this should be some insurance. We'll see if that helped.

 

 

 

[Billabob]

I'm on my 4th RMS attempt this month! I've decided to just live with it for now but it's quite a substantial leak. Will be following this thread as well for any tips

[howeitsdone]

Still leaking. I got under it while running to see if I could spot anything and I found where it's coming from. Appears to be the rear of the pan gasket or RMS again. Thinking of putting RTV on the bearing cap where the oil pan gasket indent is. Any negative experiences with anyone doing that?

 

[howeitsdone]

Removed the pan again. Put RTV between the Gasket/Cap, and Gasket/Pan. Still leaking. I'm using "The Right Stuff" 1-min as well so shouldn't need to wait at all for a curing time.

It's even coming out of the starter and getting thrown out the top of the dust shield. I'm completely lost.

 

[Pete M]

by the time I was doing it for the 3rd or 4th time, I was blobbing RTV just about everywhere I could.   

[AZJeff]

20 hours ago, PocketsEmptied said:

I installed The same orientation as the original one. If I remember correctly, the lip faces the rear. 

The lip faces INWARD towards the engine.  In other words, the edge of the lip that rides on the crank should be AWAY from the flywheel/flexplate.

 

I assume that you have inspected the crank for nicks or gouges in the area where the seal rides.  Any damage to the crank will make the seal ineffective.

[howeitsdone]

Correct, not sure what I was thinking. It is faced with the lip toward the engine. I didn't find any damage to the crankshaft.

[Tex06]

Is there any oil on the starter? I had a bad leak from the rear of the motor kept up after an RMS replacement. 

 

Turned out to be the o rings in my oil filter adapter housing (there's 3 of them). Oil would blow back from the engine fan onto the bell housing and drip down the rear of the motor like an RMS seal. 

[howeitsdone]

2 hours ago, Tex06 said:

Is there any oil on the starter? I had a bad leak from the rear of the motor kept up after an RMS replacement. 

 

Turned out to be the o rings in my oil filter adapter housing (there's 3 of them). Oil would blow back from the engine fan onto the bell housing and drip down the rear of the motor like an RMS seal. 

 

I also have that leak too. But this particular leak comes straight from under the RMS. I laid under the truck while it was running to verify.

[howeitsdone]

Update: So I found a scratch on the crank where the seal sits. I'm assuming that's the cause of the leak.

 

Anyone know what the cost of a shop to sleeve the crank is? I mean pull the motor and do it. I'm trying to weigh that route vs finding a used motor or XJ donor. Don't really have the room for another vehicle on the property, but could be an opportunity for a full 97+ swap. I feel like disassembling the block and putting it all back together sounds like I'm going to end up replacing a lot of components due to wear after 300k miles and it's going to get pricey fast. May not be bad to be blind in this situation if a shop could simply sleeve for a decent price comparatively and later on worry about a replacement.

[DirtyComanche]

I'd try polishing out the damage first.

 

I'm not aware of any sleeve procedure that can be done to that part of the crank.  Spray weld and turn down, yes, but that's likely as much money as a new crank.

[howeitsdone]

4 hours ago, DirtyComanche said:

I'd try polishing out the damage first.

 

I've seen where others mention emery cloth on the crank. Couldn't regular sandpaper work? I just don't know how fine to buy. I have some 800 or 1000 already. Could I slick with oil and use one of those? I understand it's just to make sure there are no raised edges to eat the seal. Since it's not on the bearing portion and only the seal portion I imagine there is slightly more leeway.

[DirtyComanche]

I'd use actual emery cloth.  It won't fall apart right away when you put oil on it.

 

But you could try what you have.

[howeitsdone]

Seems I've found the culprit(s).

Whoever tried to change this before me was a real pro 

 

Am I looking at a new crank or is this salvageable? I've taken a strip of 1000 grit coated in oil across the scratches to make sure there are no raised edges, but these seem deeper than ideal.

 

[Pete M]

is that groove where the seal rides? 

 

 

[howeitsdone]

Yes, barely on the inside as you can see. I'm guessing the hardened OE seal may have caused that. But I don't really feel much there with my finger. What I did this time after sanding a little bit was put RTV under the bottom seal in the cap. I'm hoping that the extra force applied combines with the light sanding all the way around and it seals better.

[Pete M]

maybe time to try the double lip? 

 

but as I said, it took several tries to get mine to stop dripping.  2 different seals, and many attempts at getting the goo everywhere it needed to be. 

[howeitsdone]

2 hours ago, Pete M said:

maybe time to try the double lip? 

 

Isn't Fel-Pro a double lip?

 

The above didn't work this time either :/

[Pete M]

should be pretty obvious if the seal has a second lip.  you practically have to special order it.