1990 Comanche Eliminator

[Htchevyii]

What PN slave did you get? if I look up a 94 XJ at O'Reilly it shows a cs2326 that looks to be plastic. a 97 TJ shows the same cs2326 as well.

[pizzaman09]

3 hours ago, Htchevyii said:

What PN slave did you get? if I look up a 94 XJ at O'Reilly it shows a cs2326 that looks to be plastic. a 97 TJ shows the same cs2326 as well.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/power-torque/power-torque-slave-cylinder/ptq5/cs2326?q=CS2326&pos=0

 

I purchased CS2326, it is actually metal, looking at the photo it does indeed match the part I got.  It did come in a box with a picture of a internal slave cylinder on it which quite worried me, but indeed the correct part was in the box.  

 

I highly recommend this part, installed super easy and was quite easy to bleed.

[Htchevyii]

Good to know, thanks!

[pizzaman09]

Upgraded the transfer case linkage to the Azzy design version.  I ended up with the cheap Amazon version which did require me to shorten the turn buckle threads about 1/4" on each end.

 

It shifts so much easier and smoother than it used to.  It was astoundingly fiddly to install though. 

 

My combo is an AX15 with an NP231.  I had to put the transfer case turnbuckle on the farthest out hole of the three on the transfer case shift bracket.  The handle bracket needed to be installed in the tilted position forward.

[pizzaman09]

Got the bed lined with Line-x.  It's a nice upgrade from the slide in liner.

 

I then promptly put it to work with 1600lbs of cement.

[fiatslug87]

And a trailer 

[pizzaman09]

21 minutes ago, fiatslug87 said:

And a trailer 

Trailer just had 250ft of schedule 40 3" electrical conduit.  

[Salvagedcircuit]

Took it like a champ.

#MJsEarningTheirKeep

[pizzaman09]

20 hours ago, Salvagedcircuit said:

Took it like a champ.

#MJsEarningTheirKeep

More work today, just 16 bags of concrete but a fairly hefty 48 inch trencher.

[Salvagedcircuit]

Nice!

[pizzaman09]

Just installed two new door mirrors with manual remotes such that I can move the glass!

While in the doors I fixed a broken speaker wire and lubricated all of the inner door workings.  I had no idea how nicely the windows could roll up and down or how easy it could be to lock and unlock the doors!

[Pete M]

On 10/11/2023 at 9:07 PM, pizzaman09 said:

Just installed two new door mirrors with manual remotes such that I can move the glass!

While in the doors I fixed a broken speaker wire and lubricated all of the inner door workings.  I had no idea how nicely the windows could roll up and down or how easy it could be to lock and unlock the doors!

 

yup, it's amazing how far a little lube goes.  

[Salvagedcircuit]

4 hours ago, Pete M said:

 

yup, it's amazing how far a little lube goes.  

What do you guys use to lubricate the manual windows? Silicone spray?

Thanks!

[pizzaman09]

5 hours ago, Salvagedcircuit said:

What do you guys use to lubricate the manual windows? Silicone spray?

Thanks!

I probably should have, but I honestly justed used some WD40.  We will see if I live to regret that decision.

[Pete M]

1 hour ago, pizzaman09 said:

I probably should have, but I honestly just used some WD40.  We will see if I live to regret that decision.

 

 

WD40 is not to be used on anything.  ever.   it can dissolve petroleum products (like other greases and oil based paints) and eventually just "evaporates" and makes things bad again.  there are proper lubes you should own and administer to problems.   a can of spray lithium grease is my go-to for most common squeaky things.  dry lube is another for things like window channels where regular grease would eventually just smear all over the glass.

[87MJJeep]

5 hours ago, Pete M said:

 

 

WD40 is not to be used on anything.  ever.   it can dissolve petroleum products (like other greases and oil based paints) and eventually just "evaporates" and makes things bad again.  there are proper lubes you should own and administer to problems.   a can of spray lithium grease is my go-to for most common squeaky things.  dry lube is another for things like window channels where regular grease would eventually just smear all over the glass.

 

My neighbor and I restored my 1988 era 12 speed bike a few years ago.  He drilled it into my head that WD-40 is a solvent.  It worked quite well in that capacity on the old bike parts.  

[pizzaman09]

4 hours ago, 87MJJeep said:

 

My neighbor and I restored my 1988 era 12 speed bike a few years ago.  He drilled it into my head that WD-40 is a solvent.  It worked quite well in that capacity on the old bike parts.  

Yeah, I'm actually well aware.  I simply didn't have any other aerosol type things around and had the door cards fully off.

[pizzaman09]

Just a random picture up in the field being used to remove old barbed wire.

[87MJJeep]

12 hours ago, pizzaman09 said:

Just a random picture up in the field being used to remove old barbed wire.

 

:DROOL:

 

So fine.  So fine.  Mmm, mmm, mmm.  

[pizzaman09]

Tail light bulb upgrade.  Sylvania 2357 in red.  

 

 

Installed then in just the center position l, the upper position is still an incandescent bulb which keep the resistance high enough to maintain a normal blink rate.

[Salvagedcircuit]

Neat! Thinking about doing the same. Any reason why you chose red over clear? Red should be more optimized but hey who knows maybe the clear one has more lumen output.

[pizzaman09]

On 10/29/2023 at 7:26 PM, Salvagedcircuit said:

Neat! Thinking about doing the same. Any reason why you chose red over clear? Red should be more optimized but hey who knows maybe the clear one has more lumen output.

If you go with clear then the light will end up pink.  LEDs output a very narrow bandwidth of light where as the old incandescent bulbs put out a wide bandwidth of light.  When a pure white light from an LED hits the red housing you get pink.  They sell red and amber LEDs specifically for the purpose of red or amber housings.

 

I also did some bright white LEDs for the revers lights a few months ago, and it was a great upgrade, I can actually see what's behind me when backing up now.  That info is somewhere earlier in this build thread.

[pizzaman09]

Installed my under bed rail lights.

I started with this kit from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07KXR799K?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

I was skeptical that the adhesive backing would stick to my sprayed in bed liner, so I utilized magnets to hold them under the bed rails.  I used 13 each of these wonderful adhesive backed magnets:

https://totalelement.com/collections/neodymium-block-magnets-with-3m-adhesive/products/1-2-x-1-2-x-1-16-inch-neodymium-rare-earth-block-magnets-n52-with-3m-self-adhesive-30-pack

 

Two magnets were placed at each end.

 

9 other magnets are spaced every 6 inches.  I then reapplied the red film from the adhesive backing on the lights to prevent dirt sticking to it.

 

The light strip is 5ft long, it fits perfectly under the bed with just a few inches to spare at either end.

 

View of the lights up front.  In theory they are weather sealed.

 

A hole was drilled in the back top corner of the underside of each bed rail 1/2" diameter then painted to prevent corrosion from inside and outside.  

 

Dorman rubber grommet 90300 was used for the wire pass through hole.  

 

Rubber grommet installed.

 

I ran both wires together and connected them to each other in parallel near the wire harness for the rear lights at the bumper.  I then ran a heavily insulated lamp cord from the rear of the truck to the front bumper to connect to the unused fog light circuit.  Generally the rear wire harness was followed up to the back of the gas tank using zip ties along the way.  Then I followed the inner edge of the tank nearest the driveshaft and then the hydraulic brake lines to the engine bay.  I think I made a connection to the power steering line then ran the wire above the front rubber splash guard to the front bumper.  A connection was made with a weather proof connector that was connected with non weather proof butt crimps....🤫

 

The results are awesome!

Very bright without being obnoxious.  The fit under the rails was perfect.  Due to the magnet mounting I can move them about a bit to angle them on the curve under the rail to shine them towards the center of the bed.  This helps prevent shadowing that many people find when installing these lights.  Only two holes were drilled and are sealed in an inconspicuous place, the lights are completely hidden unless you are laying in the bed of the truck looking up under the rails.

[motownXJdad]

i used a similiar LED kit for pick up truck beds on my fishing boat👍

[Pete M]

 

 

it's ideas like this that make me wish I didn't have that plastic bedliner.