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Finally started damn CPS!


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:mad: 4.0 with puke and she's has a hiccup going down the highway. HAs new cps, tune up, coil, no lose vacum hoses, new fuel filter, recent fuel pump, Does it after get in fifth and little when go down to fourth. Idle is high but that to me is normal always been that way. THis hiccup problem just started in the last two weeks. Where I replaced the listed parts. Only thing I have to say for problem is a loose down pipe connect to header, happened today haven't been able to tighten yet. But could that be it? Any help please?

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check your filter, pressure and injectors. if that does not work check your EGR valve, Make sure you have plug wires running to correct cylinder numbers.

 

replaced filter, egr good, wires good and ran right, have yet to check pressure. But acted up even worse and checked CPS again it was lose, so tightened it back up and ran like $#!&. Where Drive in reverse no problem but in 1st it stumble and stall out giving it gas. So losened it back up and was able to drive it home and it hiccuped twice. So thinking its the positioning of the CPS. Messing with it tonight have to drop crossmember to get to it better.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well now the damn just shut down going down the road. Try-ed to start but didn't start up. Apparently no gas. Used clip wires and jumped fuel line to battery full 12 volts. Started right up and ran, with a higher idle but got me where I needed to go then shut it down and scared the $#!& out of everybody when she backed fire. Like a damn lawn mower when you disconnect the spark plug wire. So figuring it's the relay or ignition switch considering I no longer have to use my keys to drive it. What do you guys think? :mad: Anybody want to buy her??

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I think you answered your own question -

 

So figuring it's the relay or ignition switch considering I no longer have to use my keys to drive it.

 

I would think you have a problem with the ignition switch, shutting down, or not making correct contact to keep the fuel pump relay on line.

 

Could have been the problem all along, hit a bump in the road, switch gigles loose, shuts off ignition for a split second, shuts off fuel pump.....and so on.

 

Yea, wiring the fuel pump direct to the battery is not a great idea, well, it got you to point 'B' but your pump was still pushing fuel when you shut it off, and well, you heard the results.

 

I know you changed alot of parts, but, some time it's just the little things, like a ignition switch that screws alot of other things up, or just a bad ground wire, and your changing tons of sensors and relays cause of a bad ground.

 

Put the new $16 ingnition switch in, and see what happens, bet it solves a few other problem too.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ok got the new ignition switch after it died going down the rode again. But this time it was the crank sensor being loose. So fixed thAt and put new switch in but now it only cranks and dosen't start. Dosen't even want to start it seems. I pulled spark plug and checked for spark, got spark. Smelled gas on plugs so got gas there as well as in the fuel rail. Check the ignition switch and seems to be in right positioning. So don't know where to go from here. Any help please. jamminz.gif

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tried the starting fluid and she just back fired once then mantain the rataion but but not start. Pulled plugs and warm and burned of gas and dryed the clyinders then put plugs back with little oil in clyinders and still nothing but the rotation. Dosent make a sound that it wants to start. tIME TO BURN IT I GUESS@!!!!!!!!! :mad:

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Mine did same thing. It was a combination of the CPS and the plug on the injector(I have TBI 2.5). Recheck the CPS with a meter to make sure it is OK. Also could be the Cam position sensor in the dist. area. If it sounded like it wanted to run then it must not be being told to spray the gas at the right time for the spark to ignite it. Remember these things are real simple air pumps. If you can't make the explosion, go back to the simple. It runs on ether so you need to get gas in there at the right time. What makes that happen? CPS tells the motor where the motor is to know when to spray gas for the spark to ignite. eliminate each one and you can fix this.

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Did I understand you to say that you had the distributor out? If so, are you CERTAIN you replaced it correctly? Just because you have spark at #1 cylinder doesn't mean you have spark at #1 when you need it.

 

Remember, this is a 4-stroke engine. The crankshaft goes around twice for each ONE revolution of the distributor. If you put the distributor in 180 degrees out of phase, you'll be firing #1 when the piston is up on the exhast stroke rather than when it's on the compression stroke.

 

When you mention backfiring with the starting fluid, that to me sounds like a hint that the plugs are firing when there's an exhast valve open. Which ain't supposed to happen.

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ok well thought that myself, so I had taken it out again hecking myself and put #1 to TDC and then put oil pump to the 11 o'clock position then put rotor to 4 o'clock postion to slide it in the block to line the rotor up in the 5 o'clock position (#1) and then check wires and tighted the pig ear down, but the same.

 

 

So goint to pull cps and check that, as well as check the injectors to see that they are pulsing. (?) Brother down in FL giving some advice over phone. Kinda hard.

 

And I have recorded me trying to start it so if any one is good at telling a problem by sound I CAN E-MAIL it to you.

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