Drum brake tip

[CGCWO]

If you have kept your drum brakes on the rear here a lesson learned. 
 

I replaced all the hardware and shoes. After driving I noticed a slight grinding noise. Thought it was just the shoes seating or maybe I had the emergency brake set to tight. After second short drive the noise increased to metal on metal sound. Removed both drums, right was fine and properly adjusted. Left (drivers side) the adjustment spindle bolt had come dislodged and was sitting sideways in the drum. Further inspection revealed the parking brake cable on that side was stuck in the on position. 
 

Just something to look out for. 

[eaglescout526]

Oh yeah. I had this happen too. It’s been like that since I got my MJ and then I finally had to address it as the cable finally just seized. Definitely something to check if y’all are still running the original cables. 

[Whitaker717]

Thanks for this tip. I have been hearing some noises after getting mine redone. Silly question, but what side is the emergency brake on? Also my emergency brake light is on in the dash, would that cause that?

[CGCWO]

11 hours ago, Whitaker717 said:

Thanks for this tip. I have been hearing some noises after getting mine redone. Silly question, but what side is the emergency brake on? Also my emergency brake light is on in the dash, would that cause that?

Emergency brake actuated both rear brakes. A tell tell sign you have a problem is the the under the bed of the truck bracket that pulls the cables is twisted. 
 

Not sure about the brake light but I would guess that would be the case. My light is still on also. 

[Whitaker717]

My brakes have been replaced and bypassed from the old system. It’s a bit too complicated for me to understand. I stop though. Lol

[CGCWO]

14 hours ago, Whitaker717 said:

My brakes have been replaced and bypassed from the old system. It’s a bit too complicated for me to understand. I stop though. Lol

I replaced the old system (booster, master cylinder and proportioning block) booster and master are OEM replacements and the proportioning block is for a YJ. All new hard/soft lines and the rear weight proportioning block/valve removed from the system.

[gogmorgo]

I’ve seen it happen more than a few times, a spot will rub through the rubber sheath and salt and road grime gets in. No issue until that one time in ten years someone tries to use the parking brake, it applies just fine but then the return springs aren’t strong enough to pull the rusty cable back through the rusty sheath, and the brake drags.

[Eagle]

The one thing I have ever found about which my grandfather was wrong was his advice to NOT use the parking brake in winter. His theory was that it could freeze in the on position.

 

In reality, what usually causes the cables to seize up is lack of use. If the parking brake is used regularly, it should purge itself of any incipient corrosion on a daily basis.

 

For Whitaker717: Both rear brakes act as parking brakes, There is a single cable from the foot peddle in the cab to a point roughly at the back of the cab. At that point there's a bracket called a "splitter," from which two cables run to the two rear wheels. Any one of the three cables might be frozen up -- or all three might be.

 

[Whitaker717]

Thanks eagle. I am going to pop the rear tires off tomorrow and take a look. I am having a bit of squeaking in the rear. Kinda sounds like they are dragging a bit. I’m not super familiar with drums so hopefully I don’t screw up anything. Lol

[Minuit]

This is a more common problem with the smaller later drum brakes in my experience, but another common cause of a grinding noise is the adjuster lever. It can slip off of the ratchet wheel and make contact with the braking surface of the drum.