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Project “Tomahawk”


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I installed the ACOS Pro on my LJ.

The hydraulic bumpstops with low lift made a racket even while street driving as they were in contact often.

 

3.5" lift springs solved the space issues.

Think the XJ platform has taller coil spring so may not be problem in you build.

Just FYI 

 

Enjoying your build.

 

I'd love to have bluetooth in RX-171 radio :)

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Red Mistress said:

I installed the ACOS Pro on my LJ.

The hydraulic bumpstops with low lift made a racket even while street driving as they were in contact often.

 

3.5" lift springs solved the space issues.

Think the XJ platform has taller coil spring so may not be problem in you build.

Just FYI 

 

Enjoying your build.

 

I'd love to have bluetooth in RX-171 radio :)

 

 

 

That’s very good to know. I’ve been reading up on suspension tuning from accutune. Looks like they recommend at least a 3” gap between the bump stop and axle. Good info for sure: https://accutuneoffroad.com/articles/guide-to-suspension-design-for-going-fast-in-comfort/

 

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Novak radiator just came in along with the triple fan kit. Unit is fully assembled which is nice. The welds look great. Interesting that the first fan on the hot side is larger than the rest. That’s a good design idea. The core is much larger than any other xj/mj radiator I’ve ever seen. 

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Went with the warrior 56051 1st gen bumper/bull bar. Since I’m running the boostwerks hidden winch setup, I was looking for a bumper that had a factory clean and period correct look while not having some receiver hitch or winch cradle installed in the center. It also needed to not look out of place compared to the factory rear step bumper that I’m running. The Warrior bumper looks like it could have easily been a factory option. 
 

The boostwerks kit is quite amazing. Every little piece of hardware or bracket you could ever need are in the kit. Powder coating on the brackets is very nice. It also includes some new tow attachment points in the kit. The boostwerks mount has a nylon style fairlead to prevent rope/cable damage as it spools in and out between the winch plate and bumper. The bumper itself will also get a nice fairlead. Not sure which winch to go with yet but I’ve had good success with Warn and even better success with Superwinch so I’ll probably end up going that route. I’m about a week out from digging in to this project. Completion eta will be 6 weeks so it will be very busy. But with 90% of the parts on hand already it should move fast. 

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On 4/12/2022 at 1:00 PM, fiatslug87 said:

The Boostwerks comp mount was designed for the Warn M8000 winch, not saying others will not fit, just adding info. Do you think the stock tow hooks will still work with the comp mount?

Good to know. I’ve run the TS9500SR with much success before on my YJ and was planning to go that route.  
Not sure if stock tow hooks would still fit but I’ll look into it. I won’t be running them though as I opted for the bumper version with the built-in D ring mounts. Plus the boostwerks kit has tow points included. 

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15 minutes ago, MiNi Beast said:

Progress is progress. :L:

True. There was so much dirt under there. Every time I used the impact to remove a bolt I got a face full of dirt. Going to be quite satisfying to throw the turbo nozzle on the pressure washer tomorrow and strip it clean.

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Finally nailed down the suspension and got it ordered. I was seriously considering the rustys 4.5 kit and swapping the front to a 4 link long arm. Since I would need to customize the kit somewhat I called… and called… and called.  No answer no email replies, nothing. So I went with BDS. They were extremely helpful. Absolutely great service :L:. 3” lift up front, rear add a leaf, adjustable track bar, upper and lower adjustable control arms with Johnny joints and full set of shocks with steering stabilizer. I was a bit hesitant about going with an AAL but the existing spring rate is just too soft for almost anything. The aal should help with axle wrap and light loads/towing.

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Major progress today. Interior is completely stripped and I’m working on a few rust spots. The floor pans are the best I’ve personally seen overall. Blasted off every last sq inch of undercoating. Next up is metal work. The Key Parts replacement rocker and bedside are absolutely a perfect fit. Highly recommended. 
 

 

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Rear window is coming out next along with windshield. Picked up a straight line sander along with a few odds and ends for butt welding the panels together. Also picked up a few small sheets of 22awg for the floor pans, inner fenders on the bed and to close off some unused holes in the firewall. Also picked up a small 2’ piece of copper pipe I’m going to flatten with a hammer to make a flat copper “spoon” to use as a backer for the plug welds. 
 

Next step will be to remove the bad portion of the inner fender and work on the front inner and outer frame reinforcement pieces. Have some 3m weld through primer I’ll be using to coat the back sides of the welded metal panels that won’t be exposed later for the epoxy primer. 
 

Been departing about what to use in the cab for sound/heat. I will not use dynamat on the cab floor ever again (see my last build for more info lol). Going to remove as much of the seam sealer inside the cab to reapply some fresh 3m sealer first. Afterward I was planning on a coat of epoxy primer then perhaps some lizard skin followed by paint. 
 

In regards to painting, the plan is to do the jambs with the doors off the Jeep then re-install and align before shooting the whole truck. The bed will be a separate shoot. Plan to bedline with raptor inside the bed and possibly underneath or maybe use some lizard skin there also. The inside of the fenders, under the floors/tunnel, frame and axles will all get a coat of 2k chassis paint. 

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Bad weather day but was able to make some progress. Spent hours with the hammer and dolly straightening out panels. I cutout the rotten parts of the inner fender as well and will trim out some new sheet metal to fit there. The new outer skin should be a nice butt weld finish. Will also por15 the inside of the inner fender. I have half a mind to use some 3m panel bonder for the pinch seam. There is just no other way I can think of that would keep that area from accumulating moisture and rusting out again. Ideally, I would seam seal the back side of the weld but there is obviously no access. 

 

 

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Replacing metal on the bed’s inner fender. Lots of compound curves to shape. Picked up 3m panel bond and associated gun. Will be using panel bond along with pinch welding whenever practical as it will ensure I never get any moisture into that seam again. All the sheet metal is butt welded still but those overlaps will all be 3m panel bonded. 

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  • ghetdjc320 changed the title to Project “Tomahawk”

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