Jump to content

Project “Tomahawk”


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 582
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Will adjust if needed. Have to see how the trailcats sit on them. What seats were you running on these? If anything I may slightly lower the rear of the seat. I really don’t like the lack of knee support on the stock seats though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/4/2022 at 4:45 PM, ghetdjc320 said:

Will adjust if needed. Have to see how the trailcats sit on them. What seats were you running on these? If anything I may slightly lower the rear of the seat. I really don’t like the lack of knee support on the stock seats though.

 

i run the Baja JP ones.  my head hit the roof when i first put them in lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/15/2022 at 8:49 PM, MiNi Beast said:

Holy rusty metal batman. :laugh:

Yeah, the axle tubes and pumpkin are pretty clean but the knuckles are rough. I have a set of pre-90 knuckles going on this along with my big brake setup. Taking the housing down to blast today. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have a set of ARB’s on their way also for the front and rear. Also picked up an NP242. Thinking of doing the Tom woods sye on that tcase since it’s quite a strength upgrade. Have to modify driveshaft lengths anyways so might as well switch to some better built CV shafts.

After considering different ride height options, I’m planning to go with the ACOS Pro. The pro model has a gas charged bump stop which will be very helpful and help dial in the LCG build. The plan is Acos pro up front set to about 1.5” lift on the original 4x4 eliminator coils. Some fox remote reservoir shocks up front and the BFG AT 31’s on the refurbished turbines. Out back I’ll run a JKS shackle which is just slightly longer than the oem shackle. This will accommodate for the 1/4” clearance loss from the larger diameter axle tube. I went with the Barnes SUA swap kit since it uses a square u bolt and keep the fasteners and plate on top if the axle while running sua. I may possibly add an additional leaf to the pack just for axle wrap resistance if I can find a good leaf set to grab one from. Don’t really plan to add more than an inch max to the rear. I plan to keep a tiny bit of factory rake. The adjustability of the Acos will help a lot with that. 
Still need to sort out control arms as well. Will probably run the Currie anti rock sway bar up front so I can clear the pillow bearing for the boostwerks hidden winch/steering brace setup without using sway bar drop brackets. This is all going to go under a factory front skid plate so it’s going to be some trick fab. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

HP non disco 30 all stripped down to bare housing and brackets. U joint caps were busted and the ball joints were quite stuck but it all came free in the end. Housing, axle shaft yoke ears and pre-90 knuckles all heading to the media blasters to get cleaned up. Picked up some inner c reinforcements along with some bracketry gussets for the LCA mounts and the UCA on the tube. New spicer ball joints on the way. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • ghetdjc320 changed the title to 1990 Eliminator
On 3/17/2022 at 9:36 AM, ghetdjc320 said:

...going to go under a factory front skid plate so it’s going to be some trick fab. 

 

Curious how/why you're going this route?  As soon as I looked at the boostwerks Comp Mount in person I figured I had a front skid plate better than OE right there.  Though, I suppose it doesn't really protect the pitman arm... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, A-man930 said:

 

Curious how/why you're going this route?  As soon as I looked at the boostwerks Comp Mount in person I figured I had a front skid plate better than OE right there.  Though, I suppose it doesn't really protect the pitman arm... 

The factory skid’s ramped design deflect debris better than the boostwerks setup. Plus it ads a clean finished look to the underside. My lift is only coming from the Acos pro setup so the skid will help cover the steering linkage, stabilizer, uca mounts etc. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the first batch of parts back from blasting yesterday. Also got the air lockers in. Had a chance to crack open the RX-173 radio as well. The layout inside is surprisingly simple. Will be replacing the panel lighting and button foam (need to source the foam still). Also going to add a Bluetooth 5.0 receiver unit. I’m going to try to keep the Bluetooth board inside the radio and use a small external Bluetooth antenna. It really looks like there would even be room for an amplifier board inside with the tape deck removed but I’ll keep that external. Instead of the two existing pins for the aux input as described by Jeremy (much thanks @Minuit for your detailed information on these units), I’m planning on intercepting the radio signal. As has been mentioned before, the radio will bleed through somewhat when unsing the board pins input. Instead I will intercept the 3 pin radio connector to the pre-amp module and establish a pass through circuit that prioritizes the Bluetooth signal. So with the radio powered on and Bluetooth either paused or disconnected, it should play radio as normal. With the Bluetooth signal active, it should completely disconnect the radio signal from the preamp. Hopefully this will eliminate bleed through. The Bluetooth module is also programable via laptop and the EQ can be tuned, hopefully to achieve a good flat response. Also going to add the same finish coating to the buttons as I do to the hvac and switch bezels to prolong the finish as the ones I have are not worn and are in good shape. 
 

 

CCFEF4CC-9431-4CAA-ABD3-68DBF0A0C3DD.jpeg

569AAED9-7077-45AD-99B4-3DA83CD2C047.jpeg

B2865531-C6C2-4C0C-82C9-D4D56D77E5C1.jpeg

1C9F09C1-A14B-4F4D-A19A-2F27B73F3A54.jpeg

BD02E753-4E56-4DF7-A42F-C20AACE9FC45.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Front end all removed. Also removed dash and console. Discovered a ton of wiring splices under the dash so I’m scrapping all the wiring on this rig. Went with the Painless stand-alone LS harness and Painless 10413 chasis harness. Will re use connectors as needed for the new harness but won’t be keeping too much. 
 

After long consideration regarding lift, tire size, and general suspension goals I have made some concrete decisions. Will be running Acos up front (possibly the pro model with hydraulic bump stops), oem Mopar control arms (they really are a good design, Mopar or TNT track bar, fox shocks and jks rear shackles for an extra 5/16” (the larger axle will use up 1/4” of that height gain). The design of the stock control arms is quite good as they are plenty strong along their length and we’re designed to twist for flex. The are not harsh on the stock control arm bracketry and are very light weight. A well thought out design for stock to slightly lifted ride height. 
 

Front lift: 1.375-1.5 from Acos or Acos pro

Rear lift: 5/16” via JKS shackles (just enough to offset the larger diameter axle tube

Front control arms: OEM Mopar

Lower control arm skid from Barnes

New clevite axle side control arm bushings

Barnes inner c gussets

Stock original eliminator 4x4 front and rear springs 

235/75/15 tires on refurbished turbines. 

 

The goal is to accomplish 6” of up travel and 4” of down. Will bump stop appropriately to prevent any interference. Also trying to keep a tight factory turn radius. I will have air locker front and rear along with a full factory skid package and hidden winch behind factory bumper. Running ZJ steering linkage. The sway bar will be lowered 1” to accommodate the double sheet steering bearing from Boosted tech. Front frame will be reinforced to give the best possible handling.  

 

9B576F3D-862E-4385-8E88-0253A27FD7F8.jpeg

1E5F11A9-346D-498C-9B5C-0D8EEBCE46CD.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • ghetdjc320 changed the title to Project “Tomahawk”

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...