NC Tom Posted August 15, 2021 Share Posted August 15, 2021 First: I need to give this forum a big-a$$ "Thank You!" The members are knowledgeable and have saved me, literally, hundreds of dollars. Three weeks ago my 88 Pioneer 4.0 bucked a little and shut off while driving. It restarted, drove a bit more and did the same thing. I let it sit for a bit, restarted and made it to me destination. Oil was low. Added 2 qts and everything was fine until yesterday when the same thing happened. Stall, restart, stall, add oil, fine. Details: The stalling occurred about 3 miles into my drive both times. I live in a mountainous areas and the stalling occurred at roughly the same distance and location as the first time. The road gets very curvy as you climb upwards. My oil dummy light did not come on either time until after stall. I know I have an oil leak, but not 2 qts in three weeks! I don't leave puddles of oil. I also don't seem to be burning oil. I know there are a few causes to this issue, but do my symptoms point to anything specific to anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdog Posted August 15, 2021 Share Posted August 15, 2021 How much fuel did you have? Stupid question I know, but I'm wondering if your not running out of fuel. Also how's the ground at the dip stick tube, you could be moving the tube just enough to complete the ground. The only other thing I have is check the air filter and see if it's coated in oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted August 15, 2021 Author Share Posted August 15, 2021 1 minute ago, jdog said: How much fuel did you have? Stupid question I know, but I'm wondering if your not running out of fuel. Also how's the ground at the dip stick tube, you could be moving the tube just enough to complete the ground. The only other thing I have is check the air filter and see if it's coated in oil Fuel is good. Over a 1/4 tank. Dipstick ground is good as I just did the refresh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted August 15, 2021 Share Posted August 15, 2021 CPS overheating? That could cause the stalling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 Test your CPS. You done the C101 connector refresh and every connector in the engine bay yet? CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS RENIX C101 CONNECTOR REFRESHING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 33 COMMENTS EDIT The C101 connector on 1987 and 1988 Renix Jeeps was a source of electrical resistance when the vehicles were new. So much so that the factory eliminated this connector in the 1989 and 1990 models. The factory recommended cleaning this connector to insure the proper voltage and ground signals between the ECU and the fuel injection sensors. We can only imagine how this connector has become a larger source of voltage loss and increased resistance over a period of more than 25 years. The C101 connector needs to be cleaned at least once in the lifetime of your vehicle. Chances are it’s never been done before. Almost every critical signal between the engine sensors, injectors, ECU, and some to the TCU, travel this path through the C101 connector. That said, the cleaning described below is a real MUST DO right off the bat for any new-to-you Jeep. But, I strongly advocate eliminating the C101 at some point by following the procedure with photos and video in Tip 27. Soldering skills are required and it takes about an hour and a half. The C101 connector is located on the driver’s side firewall above and behind the brake booster. It is held together with a single bolt in it’s center. To get the connectors apart, simply remove the ¼” bolt and pull the halves apart. You will find the connector is packed with a black tar-like substance which has hardened over time. Take a pocket screwdriver or the like and scrape out all the tar crap you can. Follow up by spraying out both connector halves with brake cleaner and then swabbing out the remainder of the tar. Repeat this procedure until the tar is totally removed. This may require 3 or more repetitions. Wipe out the connectors after spraying with a soft cloth. If you have a small pick or dental tool, tweak the female connectors on the one side so they grab the pins on the opposite side a bit tighter before bolting both halves back together. If you wish to eliminate this connector entirely (highly recommended), see Tip #27 – C101 Elimination Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS CONNECTOR AND RELAY/RECEPTACLE REFRESHING OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 29 COMMENTS EDIT I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 when my RMS went south, it didn't leak at idle, it didn't really leak in the driveway (well, there were other leaks but it didn't leak more than usual), but apparently the internal pressure of the engine while driving would spew that oil out like crazy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted August 16, 2021 Author Share Posted August 16, 2021 Yes, C101 is clean. Have not been able to clean every connector yet. Actually, I didn't have issues until after I started ground refreshing and connector cleaning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted August 16, 2021 Author Share Posted August 16, 2021 44 minutes ago, Pete M said: when my RMS went south, it didn't leak at idle, it didn't really leak in the driveway (well, there were other leaks but it didn't leak more than usual), but apparently the internal pressure of the engine while driving would spew that oil out like crazy. RMS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 rear main seal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scaleless Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 I had the same issue as Pete when I put my engine back together except with the oil filter adapter - I must have nicked one of the o rings because it wouldn't leak a drop when off or at idle, but it was essentially spewing oil at higher pressures when hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted August 17, 2021 Author Share Posted August 17, 2021 3 hours ago, scaleless said: I had the same issue as Pete when I put my engine back together except with the oil filter adapter - I must have nicked one of the o rings because it wouldn't leak a drop when off or at idle, but it was essentially spewing oil at higher pressures when hot. How can you tell? Is there oil present somewhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 17, 2021 Share Posted August 17, 2021 2 minutes ago, NC Tom said: How can you tell? Is there oil present somewhere? have someone rev the hot engine while you take a peek underneath. I didn't realize mine had gotten so bad until I ran it down to about a quart after a single long highway drive. by then it was easy to see oil dripping while idling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted August 17, 2021 Author Share Posted August 17, 2021 Since it's raining cats and dogs. I can't really check anything as I don't have a garage. However, something new happened today. I was sitting in a parking lot, listening to the radio. The engine was running. My windows were fogging so I turned on the defogger. It ran for a bit and then the truck just shut off! Had a difficult time restarting, but did start and I was able to drive home. Apparently, I'm confused about the CPS. I thought it was only for cranking. Once the truck is running what's the function? How does it cause a stall? Also, based on the answers so far, is there no link between low oil and stalling? Was that just a coincidence? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted August 17, 2021 Author Share Posted August 17, 2021 19 hours ago, Pete M said: have someone rev the hot engine while you take a peek underneath. I didn't realize mine had gotten so bad until I ran it down to about a quart after a single long highway drive. by then it was easy to see oil dripping while idling. Thanks Pete. Is RMS replacement a driveway job by a novice, or is that professional territory? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted August 17, 2021 Share Posted August 17, 2021 The CPS keeps count of the engine position/rotation to tell the ECU where the crankshaft is when to open the injectors and fire the spark plugs. If the ECU doesn’t know where the engine is, it will not fire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted August 17, 2021 Author Share Posted August 17, 2021 1 minute ago, 87MJTIM said: The CPS keeps count of the engine position/rotation to tell the ECU where the crankshaft is when to open the injectors and fire the spark plugs. If the ECU doesn’t know where the engine is, it will not fire Oh. Okay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 17, 2021 Share Posted August 17, 2021 18 minutes ago, NC Tom said: Thanks Pete. Is RMS replacement a driveway job by a novice, or is that professional territory? It can be tricky, but I had never done it before and I was (eventually) successful. should be videos on youtube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted August 17, 2021 Author Share Posted August 17, 2021 1 minute ago, Pete M said: It can be tricky, but I had never done it before and I was (eventually) successful. should be videos on youtube. Okay. I'll watch some videos and then take it to a pro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 17, 2021 Share Posted August 17, 2021 Just don't let them convince you that the transmission has to be removed. You can do it by dropping the pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 17, 2021 Share Posted August 17, 2021 100% sure it is the RMS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMO413 Posted August 17, 2021 Share Posted August 17, 2021 1 hour ago, NC Tom said: Thanks Pete. Is RMS replacement a driveway job by a novice, or is that professional territory? It's definitely not the most complicated thing to do. It will take some time and patience. NickinTime had a good video on YouTube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted August 18, 2021 Share Posted August 18, 2021 be sure to test it before you convince yourself that's the issue. no firing of the parts cannon just yet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted August 18, 2021 Author Share Posted August 18, 2021 10 hours ago, Pete M said: be sure to test it before you convince yourself that's the issue. no firing of the parts cannon just yet! Sure. Right now I'm just trying to figure out the stall issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Tom Posted August 23, 2021 Author Share Posted August 23, 2021 On 8/17/2021 at 7:18 PM, cruiser54 said: 100% sure it is the RMS? No sir! Haven't checked it yet. Starting my long overdue brake job this morning! (8/23/21) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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