skimore11 Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 It looks like my 4.0 is on its last legs. It was really struggling on the highway today. What years will fit in my 88? How about an upgrade? The other option is to get a rebuilt engine. Heard good things about this shop. http://www.rebuiltautoengines.com/jeep- ... gines.html It needs to be a quick swap since I have limited time in my friends shop and its my daily driver. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 I bought a 350 for my 86 K-10 from Jasper. Got here fast and went right in. All I had to do was paint it, if you want to, and swap the option stuff over from my factory one. My 91 Eliminator has a 4.0L HO from them and it has been very reliable. They even make sure to upgrade stuff that needs it, like the HOs are known for low oil pressure, maybe all 4.0s are I can't remember, they try to fix it or make it not as bad. Here is a link to their gas engines overview, check em out. http://www.jasperengines.com/gas-engines.htm Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 There are soooooooooooooo many things that can make a perfectly good engine feel like it's dying. What makes you think yours is about to kick the bucket? I'd hate for you to spend a couple grand dropping in a new engine only to find out it's just a bad fuel pump or clogged cat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skimore11 Posted November 5, 2007 Author Share Posted November 5, 2007 The on going reason I am thinking about a new engine is that I am losing about a quart of oil every 200 miles (2 days) I have done the pan and rear main. Have the blowby going into a quart container. Today it sounded to my untrained ear like I was down a cylinder. Running really rough if I pushed it past 2000 rpm. My wife would go for a rebuild/reman but I wouldn't mind getting a donor and getting AC also for less money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 My 91 Eliminator has a 4.0L HO from them and it has been very reliable. They even make sure to upgrade stuff that needs it, like the HOs are known for low oil pressure, maybe all 4.0s are I can't remember, they try to fix it or make it not as bad. WHAAAAAAAAAT? Where do you guys get all this misinformation? You must hang around with a bunch of Jeep haters or something. For the record, I'm an AMC guy since before Hudson merged with Nash to become AMC. I have owned and driven every cubic inch variation of this engine, from the lowly 199 cubic inch version in a 1966 Rambler American right up to two 2000 Cherokees sitting in the garage. There has NEVER been a problem with these engines and low oil pressure. Every single one I've seen that was anywhere near new ran 55 to 60 psi at 55 MPH. My '88 XJ is currently at a shade over 260,000 miles and it still runs 45 to 50 psi at 55 MPH. Sheesh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejndssn Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 one would suspect that the cause of low oil pressure would be that fact that the seals are bad and you should see the results of this :hmm: and may be a spun bearing. other than these that have been mentioned i have not seen any others to date are there any others Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 well then, my friend the mech is a moron. maybe he just let it slip while looking at my 91 for me and its oil issues. my 91 seems to have major oil pressure issues anymore, it can range from one end to the other in one drive depending on how much gas i am givin it. but then again its seals are shot and it smokes if left to idle. I sort of ignore oil pressure gauges anymore. none of my K-10s gauges work other then speed and gas, and I don't trust either of them. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrShoeBoy Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 I have built several 4.0L motors and stroked variations over the years as well as driven a couple into the ground and not a single one had oiling issues. If anything the last stroker motor I had ran high oil pressure but that was partially due to oil weight and the high volume pump. Do a leak down test to check the cylinders and if they are all with in 10% of each other, do a tune up and keep driving it. Then when it finally dies replace it with a rebuilt 4.0L and start again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skimore11 Posted November 6, 2007 Author Share Posted November 6, 2007 Update. I had put oil in on Thursday drove to work (100 mi round trip) and parked it for the weekend. Monday I had almost no power on the way home and the oil pressure dropped to zero. When I got home I had almost no oil in the engine. I put 4 quarts in and could have probably added another 1/2. After driving to work today it seemed fine. It didn't seem to drain over night. I am completely amazed at how it holds up to my disregard for the engine. I can't imagine many engines that can run 50 miles with no oil at 65mph. I am thinking I should get a "new" 4.0 on order. If I have one mine will last but I really need to stop the oil consumption. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 Update. I had put oil in on Thursday drove to work (100 mi round trip) and parked it for the weekend. Monday I had almost no power on the way home and the oil pressure dropped to zero. When I got home I had almost no oil in the engine. I put 4 quarts in and could have probably added another 1/2. After driving to work today it seemed fine. It didn't seem to drain over night. I am completely amazed at how it holds up to my disregard for the engine. I can't imagine many engines that can run 50 miles with no oil at 65mph. I am thinking I should get a "new" 4.0 on order. If I have one mine will last but I really need to stop the oil consumption. I ran my 2.8 almost bone dry once, it really didn't like it. My 91 ran fine without oil, and now it is pure synthetic oil so it would last even longer without oil. synthetic coats things better so it can lose oil and still run, this is why the military uses synth oil. If you don't want to go new I have 2 4.0Ls and one 4.0L HO you could pick from, not sure where you are located though. I'm sure nowhere near me since you have snow in your image over there. Then you could just go get it rebuilt while yours is still in the jeep. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skimore11 Posted November 6, 2007 Author Share Posted November 6, 2007 Thanks for the offer Alex but I am in Oregon. I guess I should get back on topic. So the question remains get a clean rebuilt engine from S&S as I posted or get a running junk yard engine and have it rebuilt? Picking a junk yard engine out and finding a reputable shop to rebuild it is a bit overwhelming for me. What could I expect them to do and at what cost? I am really cutting my teeth on this MJ. I didn't have the opportunity work on any of this stuff growing up. So bring it down a notch for me. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 One thing I have always been told, correct me if I am wrong, is that rebuilt engines are just pretty much made to run again, where as a remanufactured engine has new parts put in and is cleaned, bored, and whatever else to make it as close to it was when it left the factory in the new vehicle. Plus most places will update it as needed. But I believe they cost a lil bit more. Going the rebuilt/remaned engine route would be easier, plus I would think the warranty might be longer/better then going for a junkyard one and having that rebuilt. Plus going to a junkyard for an engine gives risks. Sure let say you find an XJ with the one you need with only like 50k miles, but you don't know how it got those miles. Was it hardly driven or was it ran really hard and threw a bearing and scrapped? Hard to tell. If you do go that route I would try to find one that got rear ended and was scrapped rather then fixed. Then it ws taken off the road cuz it was hit not cuz the engine broke down. That is all just my though. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 Thanks for the offer Alex but I am in Oregon. I guess I should get back on topic. So the question remains get a clean rebuilt engine from S&S as I posted or get a running junk yard engine and have it rebuilt? Picking a junk yard engine out and finding a reputable shop to rebuild it is a bit overwhelming for me. What could I expect them to do and at what cost? I am really cutting my teeth on this MJ. I didn't have the opportunity work on any of this stuff growing up. So bring it down a notch for me. Thanks. S&S... Are you in Bend? Are you burning all of that oil, or leaking it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 If you were burning that much oil I'd have to guess that you'd be leaving a huge cloud of smoke behind you. And I'm just throwing this out there, but it took me 5 tries to get my rear main leak-free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 just put in a 400 SBC with a TH400 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skimore11 Posted November 6, 2007 Author Share Posted November 6, 2007 I am in Salem and Portland every day. I am leaking most of it. Some is going to my blow by catch system. Too me it doesn't look like its coming from the main seal. I am not saying I know I got it right. My guess would be that I messed up the pan seal but thats not clear either. I could not tell do to the amount of oil but the leak is worse on the drivers side and may be coming from up under the exhaust manifold. I am thinking about the engine from S&S still for $1100. Any one here have any experience or info on them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanchedude Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 WHAAAAAAAAAT? Where do you guys get all this misinformation? You must hang around with a bunch of Jeep haters or something. For the record, I'm an AMC guy since before Hudson merged with Nash to become AMC. Sheesh! Wow you one old dude, he he (take that in a respectful way) I second your opinion there is no oil pressure issues with any AMC engine. Except the PSI rating you get, maybe cold but "and I’m not even close to your age" but have had many Jeeps,Javelins,Hornets,and even a Gremlin once. But the 6cyls I have usually run 25-40 psi at temp every version but I did have a 1980 AMX 258 that would keep 40psi at idle but that could have just been the factory gauge cheating so it does happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanchedude Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 just put in a 400 SBC with a TH400 A chevy guy answer for everything :roll: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 just put in a 400 SBC with a TH400 A chevy guy answer for everything :roll: 10-4 :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted November 7, 2007 Share Posted November 7, 2007 its the way to do it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skimore11 Posted November 14, 2007 Author Share Posted November 14, 2007 Alright I have a lead on a 2002 4.0 with 45k miles on it. Any chance on getting this into my MJ? What is a good price? What years of the 4.0 are direct bolt on to the 88 with the pugeot 5 speed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 '90 would be the last year of a direct bolt. There's a difference in the heads after that from the H.O., but there is a way to make it work. Someone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 For a direct swap, your looking for a '87 - '90 4.0 engine. If you go to the high output (4.0HO) '91+ you looking at changing the total wire harness, both in the engine bay, and behind the dash, also replacing the ECM, and alot of other problems, and from '91+ all of the gagues need to replaced or change to a positive ground, not the negitive ground on the '87-90. Can it be done, yea, but not easly. Also, The frywheel will need to be changed out to the '90+ for the CPS to read correct. It like a total change of everything, what your trying to do. On the other hand, the 2002 4.0 will fit in the bed of the truck with out a problem, and you might need to leave it there for the dead weight. As far as price, I have no idea what a 2002 engine is worth, that's too new for me, I only work on things from '96 and older :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted November 19, 2007 Share Posted November 19, 2007 Do a 4.6L stroker from Titan and have fun with it! :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiscus Posted November 19, 2007 Share Posted November 19, 2007 I would suggest keeping an eye in your local "Trading Post" and Craigslist.org. Wait for a a wrecked XJ to come up on there or one someone is parting out. You can drop in any 4.0L 86-90 w/o changing anything at all. You can drop in a 91-97 engine with minor modifications to your Renix electrical system (NO harness swap necessary as posted above). The best way to do this is to find a wrecked or rolled XJ or ZJ as you'll need a little bit more than just the block to swap in a newer HO 4.0L. I have a write-up here that many have found very useful. http://www.terrainstompers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14 When I dropped in my 93 HO motor I left the larger injectors in it for more power; but it sucked more gas that way. If the donor's radiator is in good shape you convert to an open-cooling-system too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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