rylee144 Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 (edited) I'm wanting to confirm if my theories are correct. I'd like to note that I plan on enlisting a buddy who welds to mount these perches. I'm not confident in the least about doing it good enough. I'd like to have it all set up. The pinion angle should be the same as my current set up. I placed an angle finder on my current axle and found its positive 3 or so. If I prop the 8.8 to the same angle then place the perches level that will work? I just have to find out how far apart they must be and center them? Ya? Edited January 8, 2021 by rylee144 Spelling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 you got it. and those perches are nice as it will allow you to shift the axle forward or backwards an inch. which is nice being the 8.8 is a bit shorter with that flange setup. from my 8.8 build.. page 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 If using a stock style driveshaft, the pinion should be parallel to the transfer case output. If using a double cardan style aftermarket shaft it should be pointing 1-2* below the transfer case output. Read this for info: https://4xshaft.com/blogs/general-tech-info-articles/tail-shaft-conversion-kits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted January 8, 2021 Author Share Posted January 8, 2021 I'm going to get a rear driveline made after I get it all installed so I can measure what I'll need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 6 minutes ago, rylee144 said: I'm going to get a rear driveline made after I get it all installed so I can measure what I'll need. The "driveline" is everything between the back of the engine and the rear wheels. I think you mean drive shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted January 8, 2021 Author Share Posted January 8, 2021 I do mean drive shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted January 8, 2021 Author Share Posted January 8, 2021 Is there room for error here? I don't wanna weld it on then have to cut it back off. I don't have the new tranny or t case in yet so I can't measure the angle they will be sitting at. I guess I assumed it would be the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 you can always set it up 0* and add shims later to adjust pinion once all is back together. biggest thing is to keep in mind the rotational torque on the rear axle, spring wrap stuff, and if were to tilt to high you can risk the oil slinger not working adequately. mine was setup for 6.5" lift without a sye so had setup per those specs. you have some room for error if your planning on sye and carden driveshaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 I'm all for math and all, but for my 9" I assembled everything loose-ish, put the truck's weight on it, aligned the pinion, and tacked the perches in place. then pulled it out for welding. or did I get it welded in place? I can't remember that part as clearly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derf Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 Yeah, best option is to line it up in the truck with weight on it. Tack the perches and then take it out to finish weld. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 Note,thanks! I'll start by pulling the old axle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 1 hour ago, derf said: Yeah, best option is to line it up in the truck with weight on it. Tack the perches and then take it out to finish weld. did the same with my 8.8’s and 44’s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted January 30, 2021 Author Share Posted January 30, 2021 The square peice of metal is just for support and strength correct? I am making the holes further apart so I can use the stock shock mount in the rear. The square is too small and doesnt allow me to make the hole longer. Thinking I'd buy a couple squares that were a tad bigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 doesn't it get turned 90*? or maybe I'm remembering it wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted January 30, 2021 Author Share Posted January 30, 2021 It may, but either way it's too small Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derf Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 You maybe could cut it in half and use the pieces separately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 if it helps at all, the last MJ years had slightly thicker shock mount steel and did away with the insert. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted January 30, 2021 Author Share Posted January 30, 2021 Odds of it being fine with out it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 3 hours ago, rylee144 said: Odds of it being fine with out it? Probably okay for street use with stock tires -- if you don't load it anywhere near capacity. Not recommended if you run big tires, wheel it, or carry heavy loads. The factory put those there for a reason ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted January 30, 2021 Author Share Posted January 30, 2021 Better to be safe. I'll find some metal and work something up. Thanks for all the input Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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