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Ya u would be better off buying the Mile Marker or Warn kit , besides the

 

early d30s in the cj used d44 inner Cs so it aint gona happen .

 

i personaly have the Mile Marker kit (yet to be installed) and it looks to be

 

a very good and complete kit .

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I wouldn't say they are garbage....

 

Mine is currently in its THIRD Jeep and only second set of bearings. The bearings had to be changed only because the yahoo who had it last thought its was INTURNALLY LUBED!!!! Ignoramus!!!

 

BOTH previous Jeeps where trail only Jeeps with 35/36" tires/locked. No problems before the bearing issue.

 

Any how, I have it on my TJ with 35's locked with no problems. I elected to throw on a new set of the hubs them selves and keep the originals as trail spares.

 

What you need to know and understand is that the hubs them selves are now likely to be your weak spot or "FUSE". They are in my case as I am running allow shafts and super joints. The hubs run $180 a set. BUT are changed in as long as it takes you to swap a tire. If you wheel hard and like the skinny pedal, you will likely break some. They are strong but don't really like hitting rocks repeatedly. Wheel smart, using your head instead of horsepower and you will like this product.

 

CW

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I'll be installing lockouts very soon. They are Warn premium lockouts attached to a 77 HP D44. It's also getting bigger brakes, stronger balljoints, higher steering, steeper gearing, a beefier housing with 1/2" thick tubes, a larger ring and pinion, a u-bolt style yoke, the 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern(to match the rear 9"), higher clearance mounts made from thicker steel, a truss, and stronger axle shafts.

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well what i have is 99 xj 6.5bds 33 12.5 and i want to put in 4.56 gears and lockers trulock or aussie all at the same time. From what i here the torq steer is going it be bad so i want lock out hubs to take care of that.I am looking local for D44 or D60 for in the future. "don't fix it if it aint broke"

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Torq steer? I guess I don't understand why that would happen in this situation. As I understand it, if you're not in four wheel drive, then your front axle is just a passenger and not pulling in any particular way. Especially if you get an automatic locker where it's sorta "open" until you apply the gas. Even a posi should have enough slip so as to not inhibit steering.

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Can't speak to the front, but I just locked my rear. Yes, there is torque steer, but it's only something you have to get used to while on-road. It's predicatable, and aviodable once you get used to it (as in when upshifting, let the clutch engage fully before hitting the gas). I'd imagine it'd be less noticeable with an automatic.

 

Jeff

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I am thinking you guys are a bit miss informed about exactly what Torque steer is.

 

First off, none of our MJ's are set up for full time 4WD, so you shouldnt have it in 4wd on pavement. At least not dry pavement. So you cannot feel torque steer. BESIDES, because its a 4WD torque steer isnt nearly as noticeable as the rear axle is pushing just as hard as the front is pulling.

 

Torque steer is a condition in some front wheel drive vehicles wherein more torque is applied to one wheel than the other. Torque steer is common in front-drive cars because reaction forces created in the half-shafts can generate uneven steering forces in the front tires. Feeling the vehicle being pushed straight because of the rear locker is not torque steer.

 

If your front axle is as factory set up, and you install a lunch box type locker. As long as you are in 2WD you will have ZERO noticability that its there. You may HEAR it clicking, but will get ZERO feedback in the wheel. If there is no power running to it it will remain invisable to the driver.

 

 

CW

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Just as long as you realize, driving a locked vehicle will not be the same as driving a conventional open diffed vehicle.

 

Jeff87 may have called what he is experiencing wrongly, but what he is speaking about is truly there and is part of life with a locked rear axle. the longer the DS the less this is noticed. So our Comanche's got it pretty good in that regard. Autos even mask any harshness even more. But try driving a locked Wrangler some time.... Not pleasant as that DS is only about 16" long!!!

 

To make the lunchbox locker work properly it needs more "slop" so there is some feedback to the driver when letting off or getting back on the throttle. Again, this is magnified by a stick and masked by the auto. On uneven or not level ground you will find the vehicle may pull a bit. This is merely the effect or BOTH rear tires pushing you at the same time. Its not awful and Jeff is spot on you get used to it quickly.

 

Also, driving with or in 4WD on snow covered streets. Two words BE CAREFUL!! Ever do a burn out in a LS or locked vehicle? The @$$ end swings to the side. Well its swings to the lo side of the road, EVERY TIME. this is because with both tires spinning there is nothing to stop the effects of gravity. This effect is further magnified when ALL 4 tires are spinning. Lockers are EXCELLENT lo side finders!!! Drive smart and you will be fine. Personally I will NEVER drive at anything over 25MPH in a locked vehicle on snow/ice in 4WD. You will likely find its just not needed. My reasoning is that at any kind of speed things happen too fast to react and THATS WHEN YOU GET IN TROUBLE.

 

I have had a half dozen vehicles with lockers and a couple fully locked for countless thousands of miles. Use your head and drive smart in hazardous conditions and you will be fine.

 

CW

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No less or more loud than any lunch box I have seen.

 

That's what a locker is. LOCKS both rear tires together. The idea is not to spin, the idea is that hopefully, enough traction will be gained by having BOTH tires on an axle work together. In order to transmit all the forces into moving the vehicle INSTEAD of sitting at the base of an obstacle spinning a tire.

 

CW

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yeah I'm saying when i dump the clutch into second will both tires lay rubber instead of one. ill take that as a yes

 

If you are considering putting one in the Chevy in your Sig line. I would rethink this style of driving unless you want to upgrade your axles. Being that its a K10 its likely only got med duty 10 bolt axles. With the V8 power likely available from your fresh crate engine, coupled with the sticky 35" boggers and high traction from the locker. They will not stand up to this stress for very long. IMHO.

 

CW

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