Things to do

[Muncher]

What are some things you guys would recommend changing out or adding to a comanche?

[MiNi Beast]

from stock.... 

 

new drivetrain, recovery tow points / winch, suspension, tires, axle upgrades locker/moly shafts, and then maybe a few cans of paint. 

[Minuit]

Here's some things to do. Should keep you busy for a while, with a focus on electrical performance and "the little things" that often get left out of lists like these.

 

This list assumes that the mechanical necessities have been already taken care of and your truck is more or less roadworthy.

 

Preventing fires

Headlight relay harness (and throw the sealed beams in the garbage while you're at it) - everyone here will have a different opinion on what headlights to replace with, but almost all agree that the sealed beams are bad. My personal preference is Hella H4 housings, but anything is good here except cheap Chinese LED headlights with poor optics that will blind oncoming drivers. If your harness has those transparent relays, toss them and replace them with better ones.

 

Inspect fan speed switch connector, replace if it shows signs of heat damage. Make sure blower motor spins freely, replace if needed. Excessive current draw from the blower motor is a common cause of damage to this connector, which eventually results in fire.

 

Check ignition switch connectors for any signs of heat (signifying contact resistance and voltage drop at switch). Replace switch and connectors if any heat damage found.

 

Remove the blower motor resistor and look inside the HVAC box for any flammable items that could've been put in there by rodents or birds. Someone from another forum I used to follow had a very nice 1990 Comanche burn down, probably from a mouse nest in his HVAC box that caught fire.

 

Electrical performance

Clean and seal all electrical connections. Not just the grounds. Everything. AMC loved using unsealed and otherwise crappy electrical connectors where they don't belong, so this is even more of a problem than usual for an old vehicle. Wire brush terminals until clean (or spray contact cleaner and plug/unplug it a couple of times), and apply sealant if the connection is exposed to the elements. I use dielectric grease for plastic connectors, and Fluid Film on ring terminals with bolts on them after fastening the connection.

 

Side note: dielectric grease does not make the electrons go faster. It is an insulator. Its purpose is to prevent terminal fretting (vibration) and keep moisture out. I don't normally put it on interior connectors, but it wouldn't hurt anything.

 

Particular points of interest are front headlight harness, power window/lock connectors (BIG breeding ground for green crusties) and any other unsealed electrical connector that can be potentially exposed to moisture. The wiring harness bulkhead on the other side of the fusebox and C101 connector if equipped are significant trouble spots. Clean the black tar goo out of them, clean contacts, and pack with dielectric grease. The wiring harness connector in particular is a major leak path into the cab, so special attention should be paid here.

 

Make sure the battery posts and cables are clean! Replace the cables themselves if they show signs of deterioration. They aren't too hard to make yourself if you have a hydraulic crimper, or you can find a number of quality options online. Size the cables according to your electrical system demands.

 

Renix owners should do all of Cruiser's tips that apply to their model year, in addition to the above.

 

Buy a pallet each of non-lubricating contact cleaner and silicone dielectric grease and that would just about do one vehicle with some extra for periodic maintenance.

 

Clean and seal the tail light bulb sockets. They were packed from the factory with what used to be some sort of dielectric grease that has hardened into a nasty waxy crud. This can cause intermittent operation of the tail lights. The sockets can be disassembled, cleaned, and put back together with new dielectric grease. Unless the socket is broken or melted, replacing it is not necessary.

 

Adjust the glove box light and make sure it turns off when the glove box is closed! That's my personal #1 source of battery drain issues on these trucks.

 

Good practice when modifying or adding to your electrical system

 

Don't mess with a circuit you don't properly understand! Ask questions if you need to. If I hear about one more person who bypassed their pressure switch to "fix" their air conditioning...

 

 

Don't use these stupid "vampire tap" connectors! They SUCK! The quality of the connection is poor, they permanently damage the wire you spliced into, and they invite moisture!

 

Don't use these stupid plastic "insulated" butt connectors for making splices! They SUCK! They invite moisture and are overly bulky! Use the ones with heat-shrink instead, or use uninsulated connectors and add your own heat shrink.

 

Don't even think about using wire nuts for a vehicle! They SUCK! They invite moisture, can vibrate free, take up way too much space, pull out too easily, and introduce an unnatural bend in the wire that makes them impossible to wrap neatly. Even if you live in your truck, it's not a house. Don't wire it like it is one.

 

Don't use the wrong size wire splice connector! As a rule of thumb (with some variation between manufacturers), a red connector is for 18-22 AWG wire, blue is for 14-16 AWG wire, and yellow is for 12-10 AWG.

 

While we're on crimp connectors, don't use pliers to crimp things! Buy a real crimper. I've used this one for tens of thousands of connections and it's still going just fine: https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-SGT18980-Ratcheting-Terminal/dp/B008EW92LY/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=sg+tool+aid&qid=1601352169&sr=8-3

 

You will often find people who are militant about soldering electrical connections, and never crimping, or vice versa. They are wrong. Both have their strengths. Both have their limitations. Neither are easy to do properly and require practice and quality equipment for best results.

 

If you plan to solder electrical connections, learn how to do a basic lineman splice! Use good quality solder (my preference is Kester solder) and use flux! The finished joint should be approximately as large as the wire. If your solder joint has blobs or "spikes" where you pulled your iron away, you either didn't use enough flux, didn't heat the wire enough, or used too much solder. I like very thin solder - it allows precise control of the amount you're adding to the joint.

 

With regards to heat shrink, all exterior connections that may be exposed to the elements should get adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing. The non-adhesive stuff is fine for interior work that won't be exposed to moisture.

 

Want to add an extra layer of refinement to your wiring work? Get some Tesa fabric wiring harness tape! The stuff is great for interior work and won't get gummy like traditional electrical tape.

 

Properly protect your connections! If there is a chance for your wiring to rub against something, use properly sized split loom. Use fasteners to keep wiring from moving unnecessarily, especially if there are solder joints. Solder joints in wires are massive strain concentrators!

 

Other stuff that will keep your truck happy (TL;DR: lubricate stuff)

 

Lubricate moving parts, such as door/hood/tailgate hinges and linkages. If your locks get sticky, take the door card off and lubricate the door latch mechanism, which contains the parts for the lock. White lithium grease in a spray can is a good choice for this. The lock cylinders themselves can be lubricated with powered graphite lock lube.

 

If your Renix speedometer bounces, pull the cable apart, clean it, and lube with white lithium grease.

 

If you take a bolt out and it comes out hard, the threads are probably dirty. Clean that $#!& up before you put it back in. Invest in some thread chasers (or used taps) and use them to clean up threads. Give dirty bolts some time on a bench grinder if you have one, or hit the threads with a wire brush.

 

If your windows are stiff (crank) or go up and down slowly (power), cleaning and lubricating the worm drive mechanism will keep them happy and healthy for a long time. Replacing the window regulator is not needed unless it is already stripped out. If it's just stiff, cleaning and lubing the "snake" inside will be fine.

 

Use anti-seize or silicone brake paste on metal to metal contacts on both drum and disc brakes. This will reduce brake noise and keep brakes from sticking. For disc brakes, make sure the slide pins are lubricated. A gentle coat of lube is all that's needed. Adding too much can actually make things worse.

 

Lubricate the spare tire hoist cable. Those things love to seize up when they're needed most.

 

Make sure there's air in your spare tire! Make sure there's air in your other tires too! Check with every major temperature change.

 

Make sure your lug nuts are torqued! Check every oil change or so.

 

Don't put Ziebart or other rubberized undercoatings on your truck as a method of rust prevention. They will hide rust until it's too late. For rustproofing the underside of your truck, use something breathable and transparent like Fluid Film, Krown, or other transparent wax-based coatings.

 

CHANGE YOUR BRAKE FLUID! That's the #1 cause of seized calipers and wheel cylinders. Regular DOT3 is fine unless you're going racing. Keep the bottle closed as the fluid readily absorbs moisture. DOT3 brake fluid absorbs moisture and eats paint for breakfast. DOT5 does not. Don't mix types of brake fluid!

 

[ghetdjc320]

I always start with steering and brakes. 

[Muncher]

24 minutes ago, Minuit said:

Here's some things to do. Should keep you busy for a while, with a focus on electrical performance and "the little things" that often get left out of lists like these.

 

Preventing fires

Headlight relay harness (and throw the sealed beams in the garbage while you're at it) - everyone here will have a different opinion on what headlights to replace with, but almost all agree that the sealed beams are bad. My personal preference is Hella H4 housings, but anything is good here except cheap Chinese LED headlights with poor optics that will blind oncoming drivers. If your harness has those transparent relays, toss them and replace them with better ones.

 

Inspect fan speed switch connector, replace if it shows signs of heat damage. Make sure blower motor spins freely, replace if needed. Excessive current draw from the blower motor is a common cause of damage to this connector, which eventually results in fire.

 

Check ignition switch connectors for any signs of heat (signifying contact resistance and voltage drop at switch). Replace switch and connectors if any heat damage found.

 

Remove the blower motor resistor and look inside the HVAC box for any flammable items that could've been put in there by rodents or birds. Someone from another forum I used to follow had a very nice 1990 Comanche burn down, probably from a mouse nest in his HVAC box that caught fire.

 

Electrical performance

Clean and seal all electrical connections. Not just the grounds. Everything. AMC loved using unsealed and otherwise crappy electrical connectors where they don't belong, so this is even more of a problem than usual for an old vehicle. Wire brush terminals until clean (or spray contact cleaner and plug/unplug it a couple of times), and apply sealant if the connection is exposed to the elements. I use dielectric grease for plastic connectors, and Fluid Film on ring terminals with bolts on them after fastening the connection.

 

Side note: dielectric grease does not make the electrons go faster. It is an insulator. Its purpose is to prevent terminal fretting (vibration) and keep moisture out. I don't normally put it on interior connectors, but it wouldn't hurt anything.

 

Particular points of interest are front headlight harness, power window/lock connectors (BIG breeding ground for green crusties) and any other unsealed electrical connector that can be potentially exposed to moisture. The wiring harness bulkhead on the other side of the fusebox and C101 connector if equipped are significant trouble spots. Clean the black tar goo out of them, clean contacts, and pack with dielectric grease. The wiring harness connector in particular is a major leak path into the cab, so special attention should be paid here.

 

Make sure the battery posts and cables are clean! Replace the cables themselves if they show signs of deterioration. They aren't too hard to make yourself if you have a hydraulic crimper, or you can find a number of quality options online. Size the cables according to your electrical system demands.

 

Renix owners should do all of Cruiser's tips that apply to their model year, in addition to the above.

 

Buy a pallet each of non-lubricating contact cleaner and silicone dielectric grease and that would just about do one vehicle with some extra for periodic maintenance.

 

Clean and seal the tail light bulb sockets. They were packed from the factory with what used to be some sort of dielectric grease that has hardened into a nasty waxy crud. This can cause intermittent operation of the tail lights. The sockets can be disassembled, cleaned, and put back together with new dielectric grease. Unless the socket is broken or melted, replacing it is not necessary.

 

Adjust the glove box light and make sure it turns off when the glove box is closed! That's my personal #1 source of battery drain issues on these trucks.

 

Good practice when modifying or adding to your electrical system

 

Don't mess with a circuit you don't properly understand! Ask questions if you need to. If I hear about one more person who bypassed their pressure switch to "fix" their air conditioning...

 

 

Don't use these stupid "vampire tap" connectors! They SUCK! The quality of the connection is poor, they permanently damage the wire you spliced into, and they invite moisture!

 

Don't use these stupid plastic "insulated" butt connectors for making splices! They SUCK! They invite moisture and are overly bulky! Use the ones with heat-shrink instead, or use uninsulated connectors and add your own heat shrink.

 

Don't even think about using wire nuts for a vehicle! They SUCK! They invite moisture, can vibrate free, take up way too much space, pull out too easily, and introduce an unnatural bend in the wire that makes them impossible to wrap neatly. Even if you live in your truck, it's not a house. Don't wire it like it is one.

 

Don't use the wrong size wire splice connector! As a rule of thumb (with some variation between manufacturers), a red connector is for 18-22 AWG wire, blue is for 14-16 AWG wire, and yellow is for 12-10 AWG.

 

While we're on crimp connectors, don't use pliers to crimp things! Buy a real crimper. I've used this one for tens of thousands of connections and it's still going just fine: https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-SGT18980-Ratcheting-Terminal/dp/B008EW92LY/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=sg+tool+aid&qid=1601352169&sr=8-3

 

You will often find people who are militant about soldering electrical connections, and never crimping, or vice versa. They are wrong. Both have their strengths. Both have their limitations. Neither are easy to do properly and require practice and quality equipment for best results.

 

If you plan to solder electrical connections, learn how to do a basic lineman splice! Use good quality solder (my preference is Kester solder) and use flux! The finished joint should be approximately as large as the wire. If your solder joint has blobs or "spikes" where you pulled your iron away, you either didn't use enough flux, didn't heat the wire enough, or used too much solder. I like very thin solder - it allows precise control of the amount you're adding to the joint.

 

With regards to heat shrink, all exterior connections that may be exposed to the elements should get adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing. The non-adhesive stuff is fine for interior work that won't be exposed to moisture.

 

Want to add an extra layer of refinement to your wiring work? Get some Tesa fabric wiring harness tape! The stuff is great for interior work and won't get gummy like traditional electrical tape.

 

Properly protect your connections! If there is a chance for your wiring to rub against something, use properly sized split loom. Use fasteners to keep wiring from moving unnecessarily, especially if there are solder joints. Solder joints in wires are massive strain concentrators!

 

Other stuff that will keep your truck happy (TL;DR: lubricate stuff)

 

Lubricate moving parts, such as door/hood/tailgate hinges and linkages. If your locks get sticky, take the door card off and lubricate the door latch mechanism, which contains the parts for the lock. White lithium grease in a spray can is a good choice for this. The lock cylinders themselves can be lubricated with powered graphite lock lube.

 

If your Renix speedometer bounces, pull the cable apart, clean it, and lube with white lithium grease.

 

If you take a bolt out and it comes out hard, the threads are probably dirty. Clean that $#!& up before you put it back in. Invest in some thread chasers (or used taps) and use them to clean up threads. Give dirty bolts some time on a bench grinder if you have one, or hit the threads with a wire brush.

 

If your windows are stiff (crank) or go up and down slowly (power), cleaning and lubricating the worm drive mechanism will keep them happy and healthy for a long time. Replacing the window regulator is not needed unless it is already stripped out. If it's just stiff, cleaning and lubing the "snake" inside will be fine.

 

Use anti-seize or silicone brake paste on metal to metal contacts on both drum and disc brakes. This will reduce brake noise and keep brakes from sticking. For disc brakes, make sure the slide pins are lubricated. A gentle coat of lube is all that's needed. Adding too much can actually make things worse.

 

Lubricate the spare tire hoist cable. Those things love to seize up when they're needed most.

 

Make sure there's air in your spare tire! Make sure there's air in your other tires too! Check with every major temperature change.

 

Make sure your lug nuts are torqued! Check every oil change or so.

 

Don't put Ziebart or other rubberized undercoatings on your truck as a method of rust prevention. They will hide rust until it's too late. For rustproofing the underside of your truck, use something breathable and transparent like Fluid Film, Krown, or other transparent wax-based coatings.

 

CHANGE YOUR BRAKE FLUID! That's the #1 cause of seized calipers and wheel cylinders. Regular DOT3 is fine unless you're going racing. Keep the bottle closed as the fluid readily absorbs moisture. DOT3 brake fluid absorbs moisture and eats paint for breakfast. DOT5 does not. Don't mix types of brake fluid!

 

thank you for all the info

[dasbulliwagen]

Bolt on brake upgrades from newer model Jeeps, cooling system upgrades depending on year, recovery points, go over all regular maintinance, electrical checks as mentioned. Most of these items are covered in the DIY section. And of course, if you have ANY questions, feel free to ask.... after a quick search of the site.

[AZJeff]

15 hours ago, Minuit said:

Here's some things to do. Should keep you busy for a while, with a focus on electrical performance and "the little things" that often get left out of lists like these.

 

This list assumes that the mechanical necessities have been already taken care of and your truck is more or less roadworthy.

 

Preventing fires

Headlight relay harness (and throw the sealed beams in the garbage while you're at it) - everyone here will have a different opinion on what headlights to replace with, but almost all agree that the sealed beams are bad. My personal preference is Hella H4 housings, but anything is good here except cheap Chinese LED headlights with poor optics that will blind oncoming drivers. If your harness has those transparent relays, toss them and replace them with better ones.

 

Inspect fan speed switch connector, replace if it shows signs of heat damage. Make sure blower motor spins freely, replace if needed. Excessive current draw from the blower motor is a common cause of damage to this connector, which eventually results in fire.

 

Check ignition switch connectors for any signs of heat (signifying contact resistance and voltage drop at switch). Replace switch and connectors if any heat damage found.

 

Remove the blower motor resistor and look inside the HVAC box for any flammable items that could've been put in there by rodents or birds. Someone from another forum I used to follow had a very nice 1990 Comanche burn down, probably from a mouse nest in his HVAC box that caught fire.

 

Electrical performance

Clean and seal all electrical connections. Not just the grounds. Everything. AMC loved using unsealed and otherwise crappy electrical connectors where they don't belong, so this is even more of a problem than usual for an old vehicle. Wire brush terminals until clean (or spray contact cleaner and plug/unplug it a couple of times), and apply sealant if the connection is exposed to the elements. I use dielectric grease for plastic connectors, and Fluid Film on ring terminals with bolts on them after fastening the connection.

 

Side note: dielectric grease does not make the electrons go faster. It is an insulator. Its purpose is to prevent terminal fretting (vibration) and keep moisture out. I don't normally put it on interior connectors, but it wouldn't hurt anything.

 

Particular points of interest are front headlight harness, power window/lock connectors (BIG breeding ground for green crusties) and any other unsealed electrical connector that can be potentially exposed to moisture. The wiring harness bulkhead on the other side of the fusebox and C101 connector if equipped are significant trouble spots. Clean the black tar goo out of them, clean contacts, and pack with dielectric grease. The wiring harness connector in particular is a major leak path into the cab, so special attention should be paid here.

 

Make sure the battery posts and cables are clean! Replace the cables themselves if they show signs of deterioration. They aren't too hard to make yourself if you have a hydraulic crimper, or you can find a number of quality options online. Size the cables according to your electrical system demands.

 

Renix owners should do all of Cruiser's tips that apply to their model year, in addition to the above.

 

Buy a pallet each of non-lubricating contact cleaner and silicone dielectric grease and that would just about do one vehicle with some extra for periodic maintenance.

 

Clean and seal the tail light bulb sockets. They were packed from the factory with what used to be some sort of dielectric grease that has hardened into a nasty waxy crud. This can cause intermittent operation of the tail lights. The sockets can be disassembled, cleaned, and put back together with new dielectric grease. Unless the socket is broken or melted, replacing it is not necessary.

 

Adjust the glove box light and make sure it turns off when the glove box is closed! That's my personal #1 source of battery drain issues on these trucks.

 

Good practice when modifying or adding to your electrical system

 

Don't mess with a circuit you don't properly understand! Ask questions if you need to. If I hear about one more person who bypassed their pressure switch to "fix" their air conditioning...

 

 

Don't use these stupid "vampire tap" connectors! They SUCK! The quality of the connection is poor, they permanently damage the wire you spliced into, and they invite moisture!

 

Don't use these stupid plastic "insulated" butt connectors for making splices! They SUCK! They invite moisture and are overly bulky! Use the ones with heat-shrink instead, or use uninsulated connectors and add your own heat shrink.

 

Don't even think about using wire nuts for a vehicle! They SUCK! They invite moisture, can vibrate free, take up way too much space, pull out too easily, and introduce an unnatural bend in the wire that makes them impossible to wrap neatly. Even if you live in your truck, it's not a house. Don't wire it like it is one.

 

Don't use the wrong size wire splice connector! As a rule of thumb (with some variation between manufacturers), a red connector is for 18-22 AWG wire, blue is for 14-16 AWG wire, and yellow is for 12-10 AWG.

 

While we're on crimp connectors, don't use pliers to crimp things! Buy a real crimper. I've used this one for tens of thousands of connections and it's still going just fine: https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-SGT18980-Ratcheting-Terminal/dp/B008EW92LY/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=sg+tool+aid&qid=1601352169&sr=8-3

 

You will often find people who are militant about soldering electrical connections, and never crimping, or vice versa. They are wrong. Both have their strengths. Both have their limitations. Neither are easy to do properly and require practice and quality equipment for best results.

 

If you plan to solder electrical connections, learn how to do a basic lineman splice! Use good quality solder (my preference is Kester solder) and use flux! The finished joint should be approximately as large as the wire. If your solder joint has blobs or "spikes" where you pulled your iron away, you either didn't use enough flux, didn't heat the wire enough, or used too much solder. I like very thin solder - it allows precise control of the amount you're adding to the joint.

 

With regards to heat shrink, all exterior connections that may be exposed to the elements should get adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing. The non-adhesive stuff is fine for interior work that won't be exposed to moisture.

 

Want to add an extra layer of refinement to your wiring work? Get some Tesa fabric wiring harness tape! The stuff is great for interior work and won't get gummy like traditional electrical tape.

 

Properly protect your connections! If there is a chance for your wiring to rub against something, use properly sized split loom. Use fasteners to keep wiring from moving unnecessarily, especially if there are solder joints. Solder joints in wires are massive strain concentrators!

 

Other stuff that will keep your truck happy (TL;DR: lubricate stuff)

 

Lubricate moving parts, such as door/hood/tailgate hinges and linkages. If your locks get sticky, take the door card off and lubricate the door latch mechanism, which contains the parts for the lock. White lithium grease in a spray can is a good choice for this. The lock cylinders themselves can be lubricated with powered graphite lock lube.

 

If your Renix speedometer bounces, pull the cable apart, clean it, and lube with white lithium grease.

 

If you take a bolt out and it comes out hard, the threads are probably dirty. Clean that $#!& up before you put it back in. Invest in some thread chasers (or used taps) and use them to clean up threads. Give dirty bolts some time on a bench grinder if you have one, or hit the threads with a wire brush.

 

If your windows are stiff (crank) or go up and down slowly (power), cleaning and lubricating the worm drive mechanism will keep them happy and healthy for a long time. Replacing the window regulator is not needed unless it is already stripped out. If it's just stiff, cleaning and lubing the "snake" inside will be fine.

 

Use anti-seize or silicone brake paste on metal to metal contacts on both drum and disc brakes. This will reduce brake noise and keep brakes from sticking. For disc brakes, make sure the slide pins are lubricated. A gentle coat of lube is all that's needed. Adding too much can actually make things worse.

 

Lubricate the spare tire hoist cable. Those things love to seize up when they're needed most.

 

Make sure there's air in your spare tire! Make sure there's air in your other tires too! Check with every major temperature change.

 

Make sure your lug nuts are torqued! Check every oil change or so.

 

Don't put Ziebart or other rubberized undercoatings on your truck as a method of rust prevention. They will hide rust until it's too late. For rustproofing the underside of your truck, use something breathable and transparent like Fluid Film, Krown, or other transparent wax-based coatings.

 

CHANGE YOUR BRAKE FLUID! That's the #1 cause of seized calipers and wheel cylinders. Regular DOT3 is fine unless you're going racing. Keep the bottle closed as the fluid readily absorbs moisture. DOT3 brake fluid absorbs moisture and eats paint for breakfast. DOT5 does not. Don't mix types of brake fluid!

 

That's a good list, but I have some added ideas:   Dress your wires as neatly as possible, and keep them from vibrating or chafing against sharp edges.  I like to use "Ty-wraps" (nylon wire ties) to hold my wire bundles together.    If you need to protect the wire harness beyond dressing, I am a big fan of the corrugated wire looming that is used on many newer cars.

[JMO413]

All of cruisers tips first.

 

http://cruiser54.com

 

Change all the fluid. Grease everything that you can.

 

Drive it and see what you need to replace.

[Minuit]

6 hours ago, AZJeff said:

That's a good list, but I have some added ideas:   Dress your wires as neatly as possible, and keep them from vibrating or chafing against sharp edges.  I like to use "Ty-wraps" (nylon wire ties) to hold my wire bundles together.    If you need to protect the wire harness beyond dressing, I am a big fan of the corrugated wire looming that is used on many newer cars.

I've decided I'll be making that list into a DIY writeup with pictures and everything. Those are on the list, but were a late addition, so the DIY writeup version will have more detail and pictures.

 

(they call 'em Zipties over here )

[MiNi Beast]

blow torch and 1 gallon of gas 

[AZJeff]

5 hours ago, Minuit said:

I've decided I'll be making that list into a DIY writeup with pictures and everything. Those are on the list, but were a late addition, so the DIY writeup version will have more detail and pictures.

 

(they call 'em Zipties over here )

Ty-wrap is a brand name like Kleenex.  And when I was in the electronics industry, we just used that term generically for all brands of wire ties.👍