OEM Rear Brake Hard Lines

[JeepFanatik]

Anyone know if the rear hard lines for D35 are available anywhere?  And if not could someone post a picture of their rear axle showing those lines?  I want to replace the "janky" rear lines the PO put on with either OEM or custom length lines that i can bend to look like the OEM runs.

[Strokermjcomanche]

https://classictube.com/product/jeep-comanche-brake-line-kit-with-dana-35-axle-with-7-box-1986198719881989/

[Eagle]

Classic Tube is the place, but for a lot less money you can go on Amazon, buy a coil of cunifer (nickel/copper/steel) alloy tube and a roll of gravel shield, and roll your own. Much depends on where you live. If you are in a state that uses salt on the roads, I don't know if even stainless steel will hold up very long.

 

[Dzimm]

What Eagle said.  Order the $25 roll of copper/nickel brake line that has fittings from Amazon.  You can do nearly the entire truck with one kit and it will never rust or fall apart again.  Bends extremely easy and no need for preformed lines as you won't get them in without having to bend them out of shape some anyway.

[JustEmptyEveryPocket]

x3 for the copper/nickle and run it yourself. 

 

The only thing I would add is to get the gravel guard as well. Since the tubing bends so easy, it was peace of mind to me to throw some extra protection on there. Just make sure you put the gravel guard on BEFORE you make your last flare on the line. Don't ask me how I know that. Especially don't ask me how many times I learned it.

[JeepFanatik]

This might seem silly but is is possible to straighten that coil of line out?  I'm going to want to run some of it straight.

 

Other than that.....thanks guys!  i'm definately going to go this route and get the gravel guard as well.

[Minuit]

Yeah, cunifer/cupro-nickel/whatever you want to call it brake line is VERY easy and pleasant to work with. It comes on a roll for easy storage, but with a little practice you can bend it into an exact match for the OEM lines.

[JustEmptyEveryPocket]

4 hours ago, JeepFanatik said:

is possible to straighten that coil of line out

Yes. Like Minuit said, its really nice to work with.

 

How much of a perfectionist are you? You can get the nicop fairly well straight by hand using your eyes and a little time. Or you can go with something like THIS and get it really straight. All depends on how well it needs to be done to suit your personality. 

 

Good luck!

[JeepFanatik]

I'm quite OCD so that Eastwood tool looks like what i need.  Thanks guys!!!

[Sir Sam]

For $200 you can about buy a flaring tool, tubing bender, tubing, and fittings. I ordered an XJ front stainless line kit, and then made my own from the end of the XJ rear line back to the back axle, soft line, and then on my axle to the rear disks. 
 

I bought this tubing:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07C8NK65K?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title&th=1

 

This bender:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07S8DQBNL?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
 

These fittings:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07ZVHXFMX?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
 

And this flaring tool:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HOXH242?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
 

though there are much cheaper flaring tools out there, I wanted to invest in a good one since I have plenty more flaring to do on my Land Rover. 

[JustEmptyEveryPocket]

To add to what Sir Sam said: I had to completely redo the brakelines on my truck. I own quite a few old vehicles so I knew I would be doing brakelines again in the future. After giving flying lessons to a few flare tools that you rent from auto parts stores I bought myself a good one. It paid for itself in time saved and ease of installation on one job. And I am sure it will continue to function for many more jobs. It makes perfect flares every time, no matter the awkward angle or tight space, and its very quick to use. In the same time it took me to make a single flare using the standard rental tool, I could batch out 3-5 others using the hydraulic tool. Not saying it is for everyone, but for me it was worth every single penny. 

 

 Hate to spend your hard earned $$$ though. So I'll just leave it at "good luck"!

 

P.S. Always make your brakeline just a skooch longer than you think you will need. That way when you have to cut off your flare because you forgot to put on the nut or gravel guard you still have enough line to make a second flare. Don't ask me how I know. Definitely don't ask me how many times I learned that lesson. In a row. (It was a bad night)

[Minuit]

12 hours ago, JeepFanatik said:

I'm quite OCD so that Eastwood tool looks like what i need.  Thanks guys!!!

While on the subject of tools, I like the inline flaring tools. Much less annoying to use than the regular "bar clamp" style ones and not too expensive either. Just about everything on the MJ is 3/16" line with double flares, so nothing fancy is needed for simple replacement work.

[Minuit]

2 minutes ago, JustEmptyEveryPocket said:

P.S. Always make your brakeline just a skooch longer than you think you will need. That way when you have to cut off your flare because you forgot to put on the nut or gravel guard you still have enough line to make a second flare. Don't ask me how I know. Definitely don't ask me how many times I learned that lesson. In a row. (It was a bad night)

Good advice. Basically the same thing with soldering or crimping and forgetting the heat shrink. You'd think it would be pretty simple:

 

1) PUT THE THING THAT WILL ONLY FIT ON THE WIRE OR LINE BEFORE YOU MAKE THE CONNECTION ON THE WIRE OR LINE

2) MAKE THE CONNECTION

 

I'm probably well into the tens of thousands of repetitions of this by now and I still forget the heat shrink, flare nut, or whatever it is depressingly often. It sucks twice as much when you do it on a wire harness or multi-conductor cable that needs to have carefully matched lengths of wires.

[JMO413]

Eastwood also has a flare tool that is awesome. Never had to cut off a bad flare, just good flares to put the fitting on.

I redid all my lines except master cylinder to distribution block. Use one roll from Amazon and these tools from Eastwood.

[Sir Sam]

4 hours ago, JustEmptyEveryPocket said:

To add to what Sir Sam said: I had to completely redo the brakelines on my truck. I own quite a few old vehicles so I knew I would be doing brakelines again in the future. After giving flying lessons to a few flare tools that you rent from auto parts stores I bought myself a good one. It paid for itself in time saved and ease of installation on one job. And I am sure it will continue to function for many more jobs. It makes perfect flares every time, no matter the awkward angle or tight space, and its very quick to use. In the same time it took me to make a single flare using the standard rental tool, I could batch out 3-5 others using the hydraulic tool. Not saying it is for everyone, but for me it was worth every single penny. 

 

 Hate to spend your hard earned $$$ though. So I'll just leave it at "good luck"!

 

P.S. Always make your brakeline just a skooch longer than you think you will need. That way when you have to cut off your flare because you forgot to put on the nut or gravel guard you still have enough line to make a second flare. Don't ask me how I know. Definitely don't ask me how many times I learned that lesson. In a row. (It was a bad night)

I think I debated about buying that one but ultimately went for the “cheap” one above. It works very well but I sorta wish I had the hydraulic one. Oh well. 

[Eagle]

I loathe and detest the bar clamp style flaring tools. I've been using a different type of mechanical double flare tool for more than 50 years and it always works. For some reason, the manufacturer discontinued that model and now sells a bar clamp type.