First start, engine too tight, starter beckons death

[ASmith94]

I swapped a 95 4.0 and aw4 into my 86 manche. Got all pumped to start it for the first time and no luck. The starter engages but isn't making a happy noise. It will turn the belt very slowly. Theres some tough spots where the engines been sitting for a while. If I turn it by hand (1/2 ratchet on pulley) I can get almost a start with no starter death noise. Next week, I'm going to pull the spark plugs and see if that gives it less of a resistance to spin but does anyone else have some advice. Cylinder one looked clean. I stored it with diesel for a while when the heads were off. Just need the motor to make it six months

[Dzimm]

Did you have the engine and trans pulled apart at all?  Almost sounds like your torque converter isn't aligned properly.  Also did you do a full HO swap or just drivetrain?  

[ASmith94]

Dzimm 

I did have it split apart, I replaced the engine trans, transfer case, new driveshaft and wiring harness. Is there any way to check the tq converter?

[Dzimm]

Did it have two clicks when it went together and did the trans slide up to the motor easily?  Did you have to use the bellhousing  bolts to suck the trans up?

 

Only way to know is take it all apart again.

 

By wiring harness do you mean computers and all?  Reason I ask is that the flexplate is different in the HO and it has to have the correct one for the cps or it won't run.  

[ASmith94]

It's been a while since I married the engine and trans. I think it had two clicks and didn't fight. When I tightened the tq to flex plate, it jumped a bit but I was thinking it was just sitting on the threads. Computer and sensor has been swapped. It used to have a 2.5 manual

[Dzimm]

Then I'd start by pulling the starter and run the starter outside the truck to make sure it isn't the problem, then check for clearance issues in the flexplate area.  Could be a number of things rubbing on stuff.  Last resort, pull trans and try install again.

[ASmith94]

So I finally got some time to work on the manche. Started by pulling the starter. Ran it fine of jumper cables but took it to napa to double check. They confirmed it was good. Painted it with gear marking paint and reinstalled and it turned the engine first try, bo problems(fuel and spark disconnected) second try, no luck. Frustrating to say the least. I think its engaging fine but not really sure how far out the gears supposed to come. These are the two pictures I got. Would really appreciate any input before I pull the tranny again.

[Jeep Driver]

Have you tried turning the engine over by hand?

[DirtyComanche]

Engagement looks normal.

 

Turn over by hand and confirm there isn't any odd binding.  If the engine was sitting for a real long time you should have probably pulled the plugs and squirted some oil in the cylinders, turned it over by hand to check nothing bad was happening, then reinstalled the plugs.

 

Check battery cables and connectors if nothing is binding, they certainly can give you a poor crank like that.  Also the battery may be suspect.

[ASmith94]

So it definitely had some rust spot in the back cylinders. I soaked them with diesel for a bit and turned it over by hand. Still has some rough spots but getting less and less prominent with every spin. The battery reads 12.29 so not great but not awful. Would that little voltage with some old cables maybe help?

[Jeep Driver]

8 minutes ago, ASmith94 said:

So it definitely had some rust spot in the back cylinders.

 

 

That's not good. 

[gogmorgo]

Why diesel? Just thinking it doesn't compress so well. It doesn't lubricate too nicely either. 

I'd use a penetrating oil like PB blaster when trying to free it up. You can get assembly lubes that are intended for engines that might sit for a while before they run that'll work better for coating cylinder walls while in storage. Engine oil works okay in the short term.

[cruiser54]

Will it spin 2 complete revolutions by hand? 

 

Marvel Mystery Oil, ATF, and diesel fuel mixed together work the best. 

[ASmith94]

Status update: It was the first place I should of looked, the grounding strap from the engine to the firewall. Enough contact to engage the solenoid and kind of spin the flywheel but only enough grounding to make a racket. I've always heard "any weird electrical problem, start with the grounding strap". Should of started there.