Laundry list of things!

[Beau_41]

I just bought an 87 Comanche, she runs and drives but.... everything is basically original on the truck ( oil leaks out of every possible and impossible place on her). Here is a list of everything I need to do, if you know good parts for fair price please help lol Thank you!

 

top end of motor

airfilter

Gears (want to go with bigger tires 35)

front end rebuild( need to basically rebuild entire front axle wheel bearing loose)

gaskets/seals for entire truck

distributor 

leaf springs

shocks

 

i am wanting to put a 6” lift on it also want a lot of flex out of her. And ideas on any of these will be a huge help. 

 

[Jeep Driver]

Every one of us have shown up with our elephants..........one bite at a time. 

 

Blue Felpro for the gaskets. 

 

General Spring for the leafs........and you'll be doing your front springs too. Rears first then adjust the front to match. 

 

Bilstein for shocks. 

[JMO413]

Blue FelPro gaskets for sure. They are work the extra $. 

Decide what you want in the end so you don't do things twice. If you want to regear looking for newer stole front diff and swap rear axle now. Don't spend the money to rebuild what your going to replace. Just my thoughts beacuse I will be redoing mine soon. 

[MJXJjeepguy]

And u didnt mention about swap axle i bet u have dana 35, they are junk it won't hold the 35s tires, u want look for Dana 44 out of MJ bolt-in or XJ will required modify to fit in ur MJ, 97+ c8.25 will required to modify also, or best upgrade will be ford 8.8 if u have paper to spend on ford 8.8 and have it regear.

[DirtyComanche]

55 minutes ago, JMO413 said:

Decide what you want in the end so you don't do things twice. If you want to regear looking for newer stole front diff and swap rear axle now. Don't spend the money to rebuild what your going to replace.

 

This.

 

I'm sure people are sick of hearing my thoughts about axles, but too bad.

 

What is the intended end usage of the trucks?  If you're really going to wheel it, the XJ/MJ D30 is not up to 35s.  Unless you have a D44 in the rear, you should have a D35, and it absolutely isn't up to pretty much any usage beyond trailering it to car shows with 35s.  For a more pavement pounder type of a setup, you can get away with a D30 front with the 35s, but I would still steer away from it as it is asking for trouble down the road, and you will spend a lot of money on it to still be stuck with a quite weak axle.

 

If I was you I would look at getting a set of JK take out axles.  The JK D30 is superior to the XJ/MJ ones from a strength perspective, plus it is a little wider, the brakes are bigger, the steering isn't anywhere near as terrible, etc.  It isn't a bolt in swap but it's not too bad.  You can buy a pair of low mile JK axles from the wrecker for not a heck of a lot of money (varies by locality), often less than what all the parts to rebuild what you have will cost.  The JK D44 rear is also superior to the now near impossible to find XJ/MJ ones, and it comes with disk brakes that are decent (they're admittedly a little undersized for a modern vehicle, but they're superior to the commonly swapped 8.8's brakes or the factory drums, and big brake kits are available).  There's other potential downsides to these axles, in the bolt pattern is different, being 5x5, but that's actually a plus given the amount of JK take off wheels/tires there is for cheap.

 

If you want a 6" lift you want to go SOA in the back, period.  This will give you somewhere in the range of 5" of lift, depending on the axle used, spring perch height, if you keep the overloads, if you add a leaf to the packs, etc, so be prepared to do a little measuring to figure out where you will end up.  Since this is the only viable option, there is no value in trying to find a MJ D44 that will bolt in, as you're going to be cutting the spring perches off and redoing them and the shock mounts.  I'd buy a leaf spring swap kit from Ruffstuff for whatever axle you get, it comes with the spring perches, plates, proper (5/8") ubolts, etc.  They also sell a variety of shock tabs and mounts.  You'll want to figure out what shocks to order once you get the axle in there and can measure correctly.  Be prepared to lengthen your bumpstops using some box tubing or the like, as I don't know if anyone sells bumpstop extensions for the MJ.  Again, this is all stuff to figure out once the axle is in and the suspension can be cycled with the tires on to determine clearances.  For a brake like the mid-90s Dakota rear line works nicely, and I'd use it over some potentially suspect aftermarket stuff.

 

For the front you want a long arm lift.  From who?  I don't know, the last lift kit I bought was in 2005.  Things have changed a lot with what the aftermarket offers since then.  Radius arm setups have some fairly major inherent flaws in how they perform, but they're still popular, and they do work well despite the flaws.  The instability issues they have are worse if you have a wristed setup, which I'm not sure if anyone is selling now but I have seen them in the past, but they do perform better offroad except for the stability.  Most 3 link setups do not drive well at highway speeds, again this is something of a stability issue, and while my own XJ has a 3 link setup and it drives 'fine' it is by no means as good as it could be (I also don't have a front swaybar and I believe it would drive far better than any radius arm setup if I could figure out how to get one in there).  There is some 4 link kits on the market and I'd probably lean towards them given that at 6" of lift there should be no packaging issues using them.

 

With 35s you'll need a steering box brace as a minimum.  The good types that plates both sides of the frame.  No hokey clamp brace crap.  You could waste money on Motobuilt's brace if you want (I believe it's them that offer a sector shaft brace), but they don't actually solve the issue (it will drive nicer with it, maybe).  You'll need longer brake lines, you'll need bumpstops, longer swaybar links/disconnects, and you'll need to figure out steering.  Part of the advantage of the JK axles is that you get crossover steering.  What parts make it work?  I don't know.  If you stick with a regular XJ/MJ D30 you will need to do something, and there is some aftermarket options but most of them suck for one reason or another.  Flipping the drag link and buying the later XJ/ZJ stuff would be a bare minimum solution.  Do not run Heims on the street if you're looking at aftermarket steering kits.

 

I build most of my own stuff, save for small pieces, individual brackets, springs, etc, so I have little idea what the aftermarket is offering.

 

So that was a massive wall of text and you won't feel like reading it.  So read this.

 

You're about to embark on a massive modification to how the vehicle works, and you had better be prepared to do your research, buy the correct components, and build it right, otherwise the end result will likely not drive very well, will be unreliable, or might even be straight up dangerous.

[DirtyComanche]

Oh, and at 6" of lift I'd get a SYE.  The HD style that replaces the mainshaft.  People will tell you that you don't need one.  They're wrong.

[DirtyComanche]

Also, back to the first post.

 

"Top end of the motor"

 

Do you just mean the valve cover is leaking, or do you suspect you have a top end problem such as a bad valve, lifter, cam, etc?

[MJXJjeepguy]

@DirtyComanche why u think heim is no good on street? On my XJ I had it for 2 years no plm on road, off-road, drive on highway 65-70 mph with 35s no plm. I got CavFab heim steering.

 

I don't know where can u find a cheap JK axle? In my area at junkyard, off CL, or letgo per axle go for $500 or more a piece plus u will have to spending on modfity to make it work on MJ or XJ, and for Dana 30 i would go for what it call "Almost alloy kit" from iron off-road it had alot of good review from people who running on more than 35s and never had a plm with that kit while hardcore rock climbing.  I never try but i just ordered couple day ago it should be here anytime and i will see how it go. 

[Beau_41]

I read it all and screenshot everything Dirty Comanche thank you. And the top end is leaking.  

[Beau_41]

@MJXJjeepguy which ones for front and rear?

[MJXJjeepguy]

MJ 4x4 only come in front Dana 30 for rear only dana 35, rare Dana 44, or only in 86 AMC20, someone correct me if I wrong.

[DirtyComanche]

1 hour ago, MJXJjeepguy said:

@DirtyComanche why u think heim is no good on street? On my XJ I had it for 2 years no plm on road, off-road, drive on highway 65-70 mph with 35s no plm. I got CavFab heim steering.

 

I don't know where can u find a cheap JK axle? In my area at junkyard, off CL, or letgo per axle go for $500 or more a piece plus u will have to spending on modfity to make it work on MJ or XJ, and for Dana 30 i would go for what it call "Almost alloy kit" from iron off-road it had alot of good review from people who running on more than 35s and never had a plm with that kit while hardcore rock climbing.  I never try but i just ordered couple day ago it should be here anytime and i will see how it go. 

 

How many miles on your steering?  It's single shear heims, no safety washers, I wouldn't run it.  When they wear out they go fast, then they separate.  Plus loading bolts in single shear like that is just asking for trouble, especially in the relatively soft knuckles.  If the hole elongates, or is not drilled perfectly, which is likely the case, the bolt will loosen/lose preload, and break.  TREs/DLEs use a tapered shank for that reason.  TREs also have a larger crimp on the joint, meaning they will play up farther before separating, making it almost impossible to ignore before it comes apart completely.

 

There's a reason no OEM uses a heim for steering or in that configuration, it's because it's wrong and unsafe.  If you bracket the knuckles you can run them in double shear, but that's a lot of work for what it gets you.

 

Not familiar with the Iron Rock kit because I don't buy things like that, but the D30 is weak all over the place and in ways that can't be addressed.  The ring and pinion are the big show stopper, where the JK axle is 30% stronger due to the difference in the pinion size, bearings, and gear cut.  Beyond that every other part of the XJ/MJ D30 is inferior or only on par with the JK version.  I would not run around with stock sized brakes and 35s, thank you, and to throw larger brakes on an XJ/MJ D30 costs as much as a JK axle.  Also, with 35s you need the width.  Throwing low backspacing wheels on the stock axle "fixes" the problem but leaves you with a horrible scrub radius and extra loading on the already less than ideal ball joints and wheel bearings.

 

I'm not going to tell you that something can't be done, or that it won't work, I'm telling you what should be done for it to actually be right.  Which is a big disconnect with Jeep people.

[MJXJjeepguy]

@DirtyComanche

So far since i put heim on about 2 years ago about 10k miles on it, and not one a bit of playing steering not even 1/32, it do have safety washer on every bolt heim also i had my knuckle drilled prefect size by machine shop at my work and I had it welded up for double shear on my knuckle by me I'm welder, and ur right about brake on front is bad but hey i didnt mention that my XJ are 96 so it got good brake system and i know my MJ 91 have suck brake system i can tell what the different, last year i was haul 2 atv with 14 foot trailer with my XJ and some a$$hole guy was front of me stop so quickly without turn signal and i had to full stop both front brake were lock which leave me tires marked on road, and I'm putting ford 8.8 axle with disc brake up rear really soon. that gotta stop me really good!

So I don't think backspace cause plm with balljoint or wheel hub and i had 3.75 backspace rims on my XJ for 7 years after i replace ball joint and wheel hub after i lifted my XJ 5.5 7 years ago

I not try to tell u that i not agreed with u on everything, everyone have different plm and blame on aftermarket parts, but hey that ur and my opinion. 

[Jeep Driver]

1 hour ago, DirtyComanche said:

I'm not going to tell you that something can't be done, or that it won't work, I'm telling you what should be done for it to actually be right.  Which is a big disconnect with Jeep people.

I'll echo your sentiment.

[MJXJjeepguy]

2 hours ago, Beau_41 said:

@MJXJjeepguy which ones for front and rear?

I just read ur questuon again u asking which front and rear that was talk about swap? That will be rear but front u can swap any other axle but if u just want bolt-in without modify needed that will be Dana 44 out of older MJ or XJ but hey good luck those are very rare! I don't know how ur want to spend ur budget? 

[NHMJXJ]

20 hours ago, MJXJjeepguy said:

heim is no good on street?

 

They're no good if you're expecting a quiet, quality ride on the street.  However, they are apparently great for flex off road. 

[Limeyjeeper]

At risk of getting flamed you could use a Chrysler 8.25 with 29 spline shafts. They are everywhere at the junkyards as they were used in the XJ a lot. Not quite as strong as a 44 but better than a 35 by a good margin. Not as many locker options as the D44 but a lot cheaper.

[MJXJjeepguy]

1 hour ago, NHMJXJ said:

 

They're no good if you're expecting a quiet, quality ride on the street.  However, they are apparently great for flex off road. 

That's ur opinion, have u experienced with them?

[Beau_41]

I read it all and screenshot everything Dirty Comanche thank you. And the top end is leaking.... I found some Dana 44 out of a 201 dodge 1500 would those do?

[MJXJjeepguy]

10 minutes ago, Beau_41 said:

I read it all and screenshot everything Dirty Comanche thank you. And the top end is leaking.... I found some Dana 44 out of a 201 dodge 1500 would those do?

Lol u have alot thing to learn boy, yes u can but it going look like this what it called AKA full width 

 

[DirtyComanche]

21 minutes ago, MJXJjeepguy said:

Lol u have alot thing to learn boy, yes u can but it going look like this what it called AKA full width 

 

 

Yeah, if you use the wrong wheels.  He also has about 18" too much lift.

 

 

Ford HPD60, GM 14 bolt, and 37" Toyos.

 

Reason I didn't narrow the axle...  There's no point.  If I did you lose turning radius, which in the grand scheme of compromises being a little wider isn't a terrible trade off to be able to hit the steering stops.

 

With the flares on it's still wide...  But really not.

 

 

That said, no, I wouldn't use a D44 front from a Dodge.  Or at least I don't think I would.  I don't know a lot about them as they're a newer unit bearing axle, not that there's anything really wrong with modern unit bearings, but if I was to go that route I'd go Superduty and be done with it.  That sort of swap is a whole different story though, and for 35s isn't at all a good fit.  Honestly swapping any front axle that does not have at least most of the brackets in the right place is an involving process.  At least now there's some decent bracket kits to do it, although I believe they all have drawbacks and compromises.

[MJXJjeepguy]

@DirtyComanche i argeed with u and he will need to explain better on how he want to do with comanche? Mall crawler?, Dd'ing weekend off-road?, or super rock crawler? Then we all will know how to help him out the pic u post that defiantly serious rock crawler is XJ yours?  

[DirtyComanche]

13 minutes ago, MJXJjeepguy said:

@DirtyComanche i argeed with u and he will need to explain better on how he want to do with comanche? Mall crawler?, Dd'ing weekend off-road?, or super rock crawler? Then we all will know how to help him out the pic u post that defiantly serious rock crawler is XJ yours?  

 

Yeah, that's mine.

[Beau_41]

@MJXJjeepguy I love out in Colorado, a lot of mountain trails out here so wanting a mild crawler one that I can drive out to trails etc. Not just a crawler and deff not a mall crawler lol

[JustEmptyEveryPocket]

Here is my opinion: Fix and drive what you have right now. Don't put any money into upgrades until you have all the problems sorted. Once you have a nice stock, reliable, safe driver, then worry about upgrades.

 

Also my opinion (less popular by far): get a mild lift and run 31s. Anything bigger and you start destroying the 'Comanche' from the truck. There are better starting platforms if your goal is truly 6" of lift + 35" tires.

 

All that said, its your truck, do what you want with it.