Project XXMJ

[TNT]

HE no longer has that at all. He dove nosed his rig. That is what i think he is referring to. Check his build thread out on this page and youll see what he is talking about. He only has a stock style hood and most the rest is gone.

 

Cole

 

That makes sense now

[TNT]

I stopped by a local junk yard and picked up a '77 HP D44 front and a '79 9" rear axle. The price was right I couldn't pass it up.

 

The front axle has 1/2" tubes , the welded on mounts and discs brakes. It also came with the radius arms and mounts. :chillin:

 

I thinking about building a 3 link with a track bar, but I could always just stick with radius arms. I could also build it with the stock set-up but the mounts raised about 2.5". What do you think???

 

For steering I'll be going OTK and using a Grand Waggy pitman arm.

 

The rear axle is missing the drums, brakes and hardware. :roll:

 

So whats a good disk swap? I think there is a bolt on Explorer type available but I can't find it.

 

My plan is 5.13 gears, lockers and at some point alloy axles. :brows:

 

My max tire size will be QR78-15 Swampers. 8)

 

I just didn't want the weight and poor ride from the 1 ton axles. :nuts:

 

They also have a F-250 HP D44 for $125.00. :D

 

I have a '86 kingpin HP D60 held for me at a great prices so if anyone is interested let me know. :cheers:

[TNT]

Here's a box I'm going build. I have all the steel needed to build it.

 

Top view. The grey area will be an XJ fuel tank, some storage, and a remote mounted battery. It will also have short rockrails as shown in the pictures that would tie into the frame and rollcage. It will also have storage for tools, jacks, an air tank and spare parts. A spare tire carrier will be incorperated also.

 

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Side view.

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It would also have a rollcage with an exo over the roof with A piller tubes that run into the top of/behind the front fenders, tie into the front suspension and the front bumper.

[DirtyComanche]

HE no longer has that at all. He dove nosed his rig. That is what i think he is referring to. Check his build thread out on this page and youll see what he is talking about. He only has a stock style hood and most the rest is gone.

 

Cole

 

 

Somebody understands me!

[TNT]

I picked up five 15"x8" rims with the 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern today.

 

Here's a pic

 

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I also found my flattop knuckles. a front seat, a Dodge 203 transfer case and a Ford 205 transfer case for a doubler if I want to go that way. All the parts are on hold for me.

 

I may be able to afford a clean box to replace my rusty one :D

[TNT]

Well I think I'm going to use modified ford radius arms. I will rotate the inner C's for proper pinion and caster angles. Then cut off the stock welded on axle wedges and weld new ones on further inboard. I should be able to set it up with 0 degree radius arm bushings to eliminate as much bind as possible. Then I can use some modified radius arms with 3" ballistic flex joints to get the arms mounted as high as possible and have them clear the frame.

 

Here are a couple of pictures of what I have in mind for the radius arms.

 

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Tell me what you think? Total lift will be about 8.5" or slightly more unless I change the front springs or cut them. I will be going SOA on my 9" and will adjust the front to match. The rear has some Stanley springs that add some lift, so do my shackles. I will probably mount the shackles in the rear frame rails to offset thier lift and keep them out of harms way.

 

Your thoughts and opinions are welcome.

[JeepcoMJ]

me gusta :D

[over2land]

 

I plan on doing a complete write-up that will show how to raise them and form them above the bodyline like this and one that shows how to do it the way I had them raised to the bodyline before this.

 

The piece I fill the gap with is cut out of a stock flare I had laying around.

 

It's not that hard to do, just time consuming.

 

For that end result, I'm good with time consuming.

 

Even better that its not that hard to do. A hammer, I'm good with... torque wrench not so much.

 

Anxiously waiting the writeup.

[TNT]

 

I plan on doing a complete write-up that will show how to raise them and form them above the bodyline like this and one that shows how to do it the way I had them raised to the bodyline before this.

 

The piece I fill the gap with is cut out of a stock flare I had laying around.

 

It's not that hard to do, just time consuming.

 

For that end result, I'm good with time consuming.

 

Even better that its not that hard to do. A hammer, I'm good with... torque wrench not so much.

 

Anxiously waiting the writeup.

 

I've started it and will hopefully finsh it soon. Maybe I should start a tech thread and add to it as I work on finishing it up.

[pingpong]

I am all about running a doubler (203to d300), but the 203 to 205 only nets you a 4 to 1. so that being said a 4to 1 231 is cheaper to build then that heavy setup you are looking at. Thats is just my humble opinion though

[TNT]

I am all about running a doubler (203to d300), but the 203 to 205 only nets you a 4 to 1. so that being said a 4to 1 231 is cheaper to build then that heavy setup you are looking at. Thats is just my humble opinion though

 

I can get the 203 and the 205 for free so the adapter is the main cost. I like the set-up for strength. The 205 has a 31 spline input with 32 spline outputs front and rear. Both are gear drive. I can also get a e-brake for the rear output. I'm not a fan of running the d300 case upside down. with 5.13 gears in the axles the 203/205 combo will work well. I used to have a Klune 2.7 with an Atlas 3.8 and that was too low. They are suposed to be coming out with a 3 to1 gear for the 203 or 205 I forget. That would be perfect.

[TNT]

Picked up a '97 Dakota front seat today for $25.00. They are 2 buckets with a seperate center bolted on. I'm probably going to use them as buckets with a '95 Cherokee center console.

 

Here's the pic

 

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They should be a pretty simple swap.

[TNT]

I have decided to do a custom build. I'll section the cab and use the back ection from another cab to extend it so a 2dr door fits. The front of the bed will be shortened about 10 inches and the rear of the bed will be bobbed so it ends it the end of the shackle mount.

 

Something like this.

 

 

The extra room will make it easier to get in and out of. I will also be more comfortable with my back problems.

 

It should also allow for a longer tunnel for a doubler. :brows:

[TNT]

I picked up a rust free passenger door today.

 

Here's a picture comparing a 2dr XJ door to my MJ door. It will make a big difference in room.

 

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[TNT]

I think the final plan is a custom box with storage areas and a Cherokee gas tank. It will also get a rollcage with a exo halo and a pillar over the cab. The spare tire will be hinged over the storage area on the box.

 

I just can't see reworking a stock box when I know I'll thrash it.

 

Here are some reworked plans

 

Updated with extra width for tire coverage and rock rails that will extend the length of the cab.

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[TNT]

Well I should have my second cab and all the door parts I need except for a clean drivers door for my lengthened cab using XJ 2dr front doors.

 

As you can see from my last post I have basicly a final design for my box.

 

It will still get an exo-cage over the cab and the box will be caged and the frontend will tie in also.

 

I don't know if anyone is following my build but I thought I would update it anyway...

 

WTB Clean 2dr XJ drivers door. PM me if you can help me find one.

[offroader461]

i have both drivers and passenger side 2dr of my parts heep....shipping would kill though

[TNT]

Well I started removing more parts from my '95 XJ tonight. I need to get it stripped and parted before the MJ can come in the garage. Hopefully My 95 will be finished in a week or two.

 

Tomorrow I have to clean my garage and rearrange and clean the half of my tenents garage I share. That is where the parts cab, box, cap, and all the other big parts are going for now.

 

I think I'll start by stripping the cab and driveline out of the MJ first. After that I will start plating the frame, welding in the front half of the rockrails and lengthening the cab so the 2dr XJ doors fit. Once the cab is done. I'll probably finish up with the frame and start building the box and exo-cage.

 

I could go on about what else I'm doing but I feel like I'm just writting this for myself...

 

WTB a clean 2dr XJ drivers door

[TNT]

i have both drivers and passenger side 2dr of my parts heep....shipping would kill though

 

I'm willing to do check into this like I said in my PM, keep me updated.

 

Thanks

[TNT]

Here is my plan for my front suspension with the HP D44 swap.

 

The UCA will use 1" hiem joints with high misalignment spacers and 3/4" bolts. The frame hiem will have the bolt running vertically. The UCA will be made from 2" diameter 1/4" wall DOM and be on the passenger side.

 

The LCA's will use 3" Ballistic joints with one end adjustable and the other joint welded directly to the arm. The LCA's will be made from 2"X2" 1/4" wall square tubing sleeved with 2.5"X2.5" 1/4" wall tube that has been cut in half and used to sleeve the lower side of the arm.

 

The mounts on the axle will be 1/4" steel and the axle will be trussed. The LCA will raised so the mounting bolt is at the axle centerline. The UCA will mount 3" higher then the stock mount. The arms will be in the 23" to 26" length range. The lower shock mounts will be on the LCA mounts. All of the mounts will be braced using JeepSpeed type supports.

 

The frame will be plated, the mounts will also be 1/4" steel and well braced using JeepSpeed type brace work.

 

Work on it should be starting very soon.... :brows:

 

I also traded my 3.07 D44 and some cash for a 4.09 geared open one to sell and help out a fellow MJ owner. No need to swap gears for most of you.

 

I posted it in the for sale section.

[pingpong]

Yeah there is a company that makes the 3to1 kit forthe 205 but it requires a new t-case :eek: I am running the d300 cause I am running a chevy d-60, and the t-case was free :D

[TNT]

Here an update

 

I've started stripping the parts I need off of my '95 XJ.

 

I helped Pat cut the frontend and the box off of an MJ this weekend.

 

We just hauled the MJ parts cab over from Pat's place and unloaded it. :D

Now my back is done for the day... :roll:

 

Here is a picture of it in my mom's garage. She's letting me store it there until the back is cut off.

 

Here's a pic

 

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Here a pic of my rusty DD. This is it's good side by far. It has 3" of lift with my 33" tires on it because my 31's were worn to much to work in the snow. As long as the sway bar is hooked up they don't rub and ony rub lightly when unhooked. The 33's work great in the snow and on plowed snow piles. :brows:

 

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[TNT]

We'll it's been a long time since I updated my post.

 

I have stripped the 95 XJ parts doner completely. It will be rebuilt by Scorpio Automotive as a project/shop rig.

 

I have started stripping down the MJ for the parts swap.

 

I have collected some more parts for the build. I now have both doors. I still have a 2dr XJ of Pats to strip more parts from. Both rusty doors and all the door trim and door opening trim/moldings along with a few other parts needed for my project.

 

I have started modifing the front inner fender wheelwells to taper the curve all the way to the core support. This will allow me more uptravel and be able to steer without any rubbing with a larger tire.

 

My build is headed more towards a prerunner type build.

 

Since the cab will be 9" longer I have decided to use 64" Chevy rear leaf spring which will extend the wheelbase about 8". The frame is the perfect length for the swap. My custom built bed will be slightly over 5' long.

 

I have a place to build the full rollcage. It will have a bed cage for shock mounting, a full cab cage and it will continue to the front suspension and front bumper. It will be a combination of 1.75" and 1.5" tube.

 

The longer leaf springs should be able to use all of the 18" travel FOA remote reservoir shocks. The rear shackle design will allow great flex and ride. FOA 2.5" 4" travel air bumps are also planned.

 

Up front some Bilstein 12"-14" travel short body reservoir shocks with 6.5"-8" front springs are planned. Fox 2" diameter 4" travel air/hydro bumpstops is my ultimate goal.

 

More updates and pictures to follow.

[JeepcoMJ]

 

wanna work out a deal on your old rear springs?

[TNT]

:rock on:

 

wanna work out a deal on your old rear springs?

 

Sure.

 

Are you interesred in the T&T shackles also?