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I bought a radiator for a 95 Cherokee a while back, and I'm wondering if it would work for an 89 MJ. The only reason I'm doubtful is because the one I ordered from Rock Auto for the XJ is different from the MJ in terms of part numbers.

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it will work. the difference is open and closed system. also I think the sensor that plugs in to the radiator is different for the e-fan.

 

In our shop we like to get 3 core all metal radiators from same year it comes out of. Then install the 3 e-fan setup. 1 fan comes on at 180 and is main cooling, 2nd fan comes on when a/c is turned on, and third is hooked up to manual bypass switch and the 210 degrees temp switch on radiator. We have in the past also hooked 2nd fan to 210 degrees temp switch on radiator, and found out it was unneeded.

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19 hours ago, dvitha said:

it will work. the difference is open and closed system. also I think the sensor that plugs in to the radiator is different for the e-fan.

 

In our shop we like to get 3 core all metal radiators from same year it comes out of. Then install the 3 e-fan setup. 1 fan comes on at 180 and is main cooling, 2nd fan comes on when a/c is turned on, and third is hooked up to manual bypass switch and the 210 degrees temp switch on radiator. We have in the past also hooked 2nd fan to 210 degrees temp switch on radiator, and found out it was unneeded.

What e-fan(s) do you use in your 3-fan setup?   Where do you sense the 180* temp versus the 210* temp?

 

Curious as to how you approached this, and I might try to duplicate your scheme.

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19 minutes ago, Dando said:

The 95 radiator will be easy. All I did was bolt mine in. The 95 XJ radiator from my parts jeep is in my 90 MJ right now and I don’t recall modifying anything. 

 

If he still is using the closed cooling system he will have to plug the overflow port on the fill neck, or else the cap will vent coolant out it once it hits specified pressure.

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the 210 sensor used is the 8932001846 sensor that is connected on left side of radiator. The switch will come on at 210 and shut off at 195 it is default sensor.

the other sensor is a hayden 3651 that can control 2 fans and you can adjust temp when you want it to come on.

the hayden will be hooked up to One of these, that is made for switch or temp sender

 

Aluminum Shroud we made in shop & Triple 7" Fans is what we use. we bought 3 of these

of course we used the 3 row core all metal we use these , but not their 2 fans.

 

If you are going to use the newer radiator with the old renix style bottle you will need a high pressure cap so that you will not blow fluid. you would need something like a 21 to 25 psi cap so that the bottle can be used. The bottle cap is 15 to 18 psi. So it would blow before your cap would on radiator  

 

On one of out trucks we also did the evans waterless coolant, very expensive, however does not need changed for 10 years or more. The pressure on the system way less of normal water used coolant, which means your hoses will last much longer. It also has a much higher boiling point at 375°F and freezing point of -34° F. So far we been happy, only 1 fan ever comes on, and the max psi has only reach 1 psi ever. Even with a/c on the 1 fan cools it below 200 all the time in the 110 texas heat.

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2 hours ago, dvitha said:

the 210 sensor used is the 8932001846 sensor that is connected on left side of radiator. The switch will come on at 210 and shut off at 195 it is default sensor.

the other sensor is a hayden 3651 that can control 2 fans and you can adjust temp when you want it to come on.

the hayden will be hooked up to One of these, that is made for switch or temp sender

 

Aluminum Shroud we made in shop & Triple 7" Fans is what we use. we bought 3 of these

of course we used the 3 row core all metal we use these , but not their 2 fans.

 

If you are going to use the newer radiator with the old renix style bottle you will need a high pressure cap so that you will not blow fluid. you would need something like a 21 to 25 psi cap so that the bottle can be used. The bottle cap is 15 to 18 psi. So it would blow before your cap would on radiator  

 

On one of out trucks we also did the evans waterless coolant, very expensive, however does not need changed for 10 years or more. The pressure on the system way less of normal water used coolant, which means your hoses will last much longer. It also has a much higher boiling point at 375°F and freezing point of -34° F. So far we been happy, only 1 fan ever comes on, and the max psi has only reach 1 psi ever. Even with a/c on the 1 fan cools it below 200 all the time in the 110 texas heat.

 

Dvitha, tons of good info here, following this thread closely. So in your first post you said you like to use "3 core all metal radiators from same year it comes out of". So does this mean you kept them as a closed system instead of converting to open, being that all of your trucks are pre-HO?  If so, what is your opinion on staying closed vs changing over to open? 

 

I also found the Evans waterless coolant info very interesting. Being that XJ/MJ's are known to run hot, wouldn't this make sense for most people to do being that your experience is extremely positive? The higher cost of the coolant would seem to end up more than paying for itself by lasting 10yrs with fewer hose replacements, not to mention less potential breakdown costs.

 

Thoughts?

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yes I kept all our trucks closed system, all are pre HO. We did go with the metal bottle over the plastic bottle as well. Their is much debate over the open and closed system. I like the closed system for one main reason, you have no over flow to maintain. All the newer vehicles have gone to the closed system in the last 10 years now.  Most vehicle that come in our shop have the closed system now days as well.

 

Since we have been stocking the Evans for the past few year, I have only herd and seen good things about it. Many Jeep, and Toyota off roaders that come in, been asking for it over the past year or so. From customers have told me even if the system runs hot when rock climbing they get no break downs, or boil overs. A few racers from the race way come in and buy it from us locally. Our one test jeep we have ran the Evans in seems to be very happy. When we do the oil change we check everything out and the system still looks new after 19,000 miles all local driving. The fact it warms up in half the time in the cold and does not ever go over 205 on the hottest Texas day speaks a lot. We in the shop here have tried many things over the years, and I see it being a great change over for those who abuse or run their vehicles hot.

 

As the maintenance goes by we will switch each of our jeep over to the evans in our shop. I forgot to mention that I see the alternator lasting long as well because only 1 fan is working over 2 or 3 most of the time. Less drag on the alternator to charge or put out, means longer life.

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The coolant in our MJs can be kept below a specific temperature with the appropriate cooling fan and coolant temp switch when you have a properly working, non restricted cooling system. I swapped in a late 90s Volvo sedan radiator fan assembly into my 86er when I replaced the leaky radiator. I installed a cooling fan switch near the thermostat on the intake manifold coolant passage that closes at 200 degrees and opens at 195 degrees. This setup kept the regular green coolant+water mix in the system from ever reaching 205 degrees in the southwest city traffic while using the air conditioning. Good coolant flow+good cooling fan air flow=cool MJ engine.

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