92 Autocross/Lowered MJ

[Dzimm]

17 minutes ago, JMO413 said:

I have been hunting water leaks for about a year at this point. I wonder if these trucks were every water tight? 

I'm pretty sure they weren't.  They came with convenient drain plugs though... You just had to pull the carpet to access them.

[Dzimm]

Dug out the spray foam mess on both corners in prep for replacement.  Super annoying, DON'T EVER use spray foam on a vehicle.  

 

Corners and rockers are pretty Rusty but I've got replacements ready to go in.  

[Dzimm]

A little more work done today.  Got the seat and console back in for mock up.  I didn't realize the console would sit so high off the floor after removing the carpet.  There is a good 3/4" gap under it now, I may have to figure out a way to drop it or fill in under it somehow.  

 

I got the brackets built for the brake handle and I think I figured out how to attach the cable to the handle.  The cable has a different style end on it than Jeeps normally do so it won't sit in the slot properly. 

 

I did end up cutting apart the MJ brake bracket due simply to the fact I didn't have a drill bit the correct size for the cable to lock into and rather than buying a new bit, I just cut apart the bracket.  It also provided a nice support for the handle.

 

The mounting brackets are drying so tomorrow I should be getting it all installed.  I made the brackets so the brake handle will sit above the console without having to drill any holes or otherwise damage the console.  Hopefully it all goes together easily. 

 

[Dzimm]

This morning I got the brake handle assembled and installed in the truck.  The cable end was different than what the handle was designed for so I ran a bolt through the holes to squeeze the cable enough it can't slip through.  I also ground the threads off the bolt where it will contact the cable to avoid any chafing.  

 

 

 

I welded the nuts to the bottom of the brackets so it's just a bolt to tighten from the top.  I used nutserts in the cab floor.  

 

 

The fit in the cab is good.  It is pretty darn straight with the console but it doesn't sit level like I wanted.  I had to sag the back end so the cable would fit under the seat frame.  Its also a lot easier to reach being slightly up.  When it's engaged it doesn't interfere with the shifter at all but it's close enough I'll notice if I forget to release it.

 

Unfortunately I think my rear cables are seized, I tried adjustments and I can't get them to move at all.  I pulled a wheel off to inspect and it was installed properly.  For now I left it loose and I will be getting new cables at some point.  Oh and I got the cab put back together.

 

[Dzimm]

After finishing the cab I started cutting out the driver's cab corner.  I got all the really bad rust cut out and ready for final cleaning with a flap disk.  There are some holes in the back side of the rocker but I will just use body filler on those since they are small and hidden. 

 

I decided to really take my time with this so I drilled all the spot welds on my replacements to separate the inner and outer corner.  I'll weld in the inner then come back and do the outer skin.  

 

Unfortunately my grinder threw the motor bearing so I'm currently waiting on the fiancé to come home with a replacement so I can get this cleaned up and lay down a rust reformer over anything left over so it can dry overnight.

[Pete M]

do make sure that you integrate a drain hole in your new rockers.   

[Dzimm]

38 minutes ago, Pete M said:

do make sure that you integrate a drain hole in your new rockers.   

Definitely will thanks Pete.  I'm splicing the bottom of the rockers at the pinch seam so it will maintain the factory holes.

[Dzimm]

Got it all cleaned up and rust reformer everywhere I could reach.  Tomorrow will be assembly and then the rest of the rocker.

[Dzimm]

Well today I got woken up early to go to a Barn Hunt trial with the fiancé so no real work will get done on the truck unless we get home early enough.  It's dogs hunting rats, don't worry the rats are perfectly safe, and actually enjoy the interaction with the dogs.  It's one of the many dog sports she does with our dogs.  

 

The down time I have today is useful for thinking out how exactly I want to blend in the new corners.  Ideally I'd pull the bed but I really don't want to do that if I don't have to.  I might do it when I repaint the whole truck, I need to undercoat it too but the paint is in good shape between the cab and bed so pulling it at all is still up in the air. 

 

I think I'm going to try cutting the corner in a way that I can weld the tight spots from the inside so there is minimal work to be done between the cab and bed.  I will use a file sander to reach in the tight gap and clean everything up.  The reviews of this one says use 40 or 60 grit for welds but if I weld the inside I shouldn't have much to take down on the outside.  Some body filler and it should look pretty good in there.

 

[Dzimm]

Got home early enough to get some work done.  Of course as my luck would have it, as soon as I started welding the battery died in my helmet so it wouldn't darken.  I learned I really should have a standard helmet on hand.  Luckily the fiancé had gone to run some errands so she grabbed me a new one on her way back.

 

Got the internal corner stitched in.  Forgot how much I hate sheetmetal work.

 

Rocker cut out, not that bad honestly.  Somehow to side rusted out, the bottom is spotless inside and out.

 

Cleaned up and rust treatment/reformer

 

Threw some paint over everything before sealing it up.  Don't mind the color, just using what I've got.  

 

Next section of rocker is cleaned up and ready to go in tomorrow.  It's cut into smaller chunks since it was shipped halfway across the country so I've got 3 pieces to weld together per side.  

[Dzimm]

It's all in on the driver's side.  Body filler will be here tomorrow to clean up the seems and so will the sander for the hard to reach areas.  Paint just to see it one color.

 

 

 

[JMO413]

Looking good!

[Jeep Driver]

[Dzimm]

Decided while I was on this side of the truck I'd just pull the rear fender flare off.  I could see some bubbling around the top.  The bedside had been replaced at some point so I figured it wouldn't be too bad.  Well the inner fender was absolutely toast.  I didn't take a picture of it for some reason.  I had to cut out basically the entire outer portion of the inner fender.  I decided to not replace it since it would have been a stupid amount of work and it really isn't necessary.  I just added a support brace to the bottom of the bedside just forward of the wheel well to keep it steady.

 

This is the inside showing some of what I cut out.  All the bad rust is gone, the surface rust I was able to get off with a wire brush and coat with rust reformer and paint.

 

The rust on the actual bedside wasn't bad.

 

New piece tacked in.  Used a front fender again for the arch.  Didn't line up as well using less of the fender but still works just fine and the flare will cover any imperfections.

 

Driver's side has no rust now! 

 

[Dzimm]

Did the passenger side today.  Had to cut about 18" of the inner rocker out due to rust.  I'm going to leave it open for now and keep an eye on it.  Since this is a street truck, it shouldn't get a ton of junk in the crevices, plus with it open I can clean it out easier.

 

The door was a little more eaten up on this side.  Cleaned up what I could and will fill the hole with body filler.

 

That file grinder I got worked well for reaching the tight areas and actually ate through welds fairly quickly.  Definitely not as good as the pneumatic version but for someone without an air compressor, I'd recommend it.  Went ahead and cleaned the bedside up in prep for body filler tomorrow.

 

I got done early enough so I changed the door locks that showed up today as well.  Found the driver's side had been attached with JB weld instead of the proper clip because they broke the tabs on the lock cylinder.  I swear everything on this truck was cobbled together by POs.  Had to break it loose with a flathead.  Luckily I kept all the spare parts from my blue truck because I needed one of those plastic rod holders things and one of the clips for the cylinder.

 

The new lock cylinders came with the plastic covered triangle shaped keys.  I've got too many of these style keys already so I cut the plastic to differentiate from the ignition key.  Top is the modified door key, bottom is the ignition key.

 

I also "repaired" the broken window crank.  The knob was missing when I bought it and it was incredibly hard to crank without it.  I just wedged the hex on a 1/4-20 bolt into the back of the crank and put a few nuts on it for a handle.  Works just as good as the original.

[Dzimm]

I hate body work.  My arm is dead from all the sanding.  It's not perfect but good enough for now.  It's done up to 120 grit currently and needs a little more filler in a few spots but it can wait until I paint the whole truck. 

 

After 1st round of filler

 

2nd layer of filler

 

Painted

 

 

I went to Menards and got fender washers for the flares, but I wasn't paying attention and got 3/16" instead of 1/4" and I'm using 1/4"-20 bolts.   going back tomorrow to get the correct size so I can finish the flare install.  I also grabbed a couple different red paints as well, neither were close, didn't see any of the color recommendations from you guys there so I tried random ones.  At this point I might as well have spent the money on color matched paint.

 

Some other random pictures.

 

This bedside sucked to fill and sand.  Looks a million times better now though.

 

[Dzimm]

Got the flares completely installed.  Used fender washers to grip as much of the flare as I could.  The truck is looking really good now.  With finer detail work on the bedsides and fresh paint it will look like a new truck. 

 

62mm throttle body showed up today from Meanlemons.  Got it installed and it makes a big difference in throttle response.  I used to have to give it a little gas from a stop or it would bog but now I can just let the clutch out and it starts rolling fine.  I launched it a few times and it definitely gets up and goes faster from a stop.  Can't wait to get the rear end changed to something I'm not scared of breaking and smaller tires to really make a difference.    

[Dzimm]

Well for the last two weeks or so I've been dealing with the rear brakes and think I've finally got it mostly sorted out.

 

It started with new rear parking brake cables.  Got them installed but couldn't get them to adjust properly.  Also found some of the springs and hardware in the brakes to be very crusty and one of the shoe mounting springs was actually broken so I just ordered a brake kit from Rock Auto (kit had wheel cylinders, drums, shoes, and hardware).  

 

 

Brake kit came and got it installed but then had issues with shoe adjustment.  First test drive the rear brakes came back with a little smoke even though the adjuster was backed completely out and the parking brake cables were completely slack.  The adjuster was also not holding like it was supposed to so I ran to Napa and got new adjuster kits for both sides.  Today I got those installed and the brakes seemed to adjust properly!  They are a little hot after a drive but I think that's supposed to happen. 

 

Came back and tried setting up the parking brake again.  I got it mostly working but my new problem is it's either too tight, or not as tight as I'd hoped they'd be.  For now it's tight enough to hold the truck on a hill but not great at stopping it in motion.  Not really sure what's going on with them but for now I'm just going to drive it and see what happens.  Maybe let the brakes break in a little bit and then try to tighten them up a bit.  

 

The bright side of this whole thing is now the ENTIRE brake system is new parts!  

[Dzimm]

After a few months wait, the Addco rear swaybar showed up.  I was quoted a month originally due to it being made to order.  That came and went and I talked to Addco a couple times and it sounds like they were waiting on some hardware to finish it.  Take that for what it's worth but it came.

 

The bar itself is pretty darn heavy and the brackets seem of decent quality.  The links are the same quality you get in the autoparts store. The u bolts are meh.  

 

Most parking lots and highways have been salted so the truck is put away for the year.  They didn't salt in town so I will try to get this installed and test drive it before they salt the rest of the roads.  

[Pete M]

well?  did you get a chance to install it? 

[Dzimm]

On 11/12/2019 at 11:35 AM, Pete M said:

well?  did you get a chance to install it? 

Unfortunately no.  Haven't had much time to do anything I've wanted to.  Been looking at axles and some other parts in hopes of obtaining them and doing the suspension work over the winter and into the spring.

[Dzimm]

Installed the swaybar this morning.  Unfortunately it is designed to be used with shocks that are just the metal piston, not ones with the metal housing.  Since mine have a larger than normal metal housing, the upper brackets don't sit properly.  They are slightly tilted toward the back causing the end links to not sit vertical and the bar to not sit perfectly parallel to the ground.  It's close but not optimal.  Judging by the length of the bar, I don't think the links would sit vertical unless the bar was completely under the axle.

 

Once lowered, it appears the bar is long enough that I could move the upper brackets to the crossmember instead of the shock mount, which will be nice.  I also need to get the spare tire out so I've got more room to work.

 

 

I decided it has rained enough since they salted the roads that they were clean enough for a test drive.  It was an absolute blast!  I can't believe how much of a difference there is with the bar on it.  The body roll is basically non-existent now and it handled so much better.  I cannot wait to get the rest of the suspension done and get small tires on it.

 

On recommendation from 70Barracuda, I ordered some ZJ rear coils to go on it.  Once I get the last bits for the leaf spring rebuild, I'll get the front springs installed. 

[70barracuda]

Isn't it crazy how much the rear bar helps? I was in shock how well it stays level even when I really layed into a turn. 

[Dzimm]

On 12/1/2019 at 8:02 AM, 70barracuda said:

Isn't it crazy how much the rear bar helps? I was in shock how well it stays level even when I really layed into a turn. 

Yeah I was completely blown away by it.  It feels like a sports car now.  

[SatiricalHen]

I was in the same boat with my addcco bar. Ordered August 13th got it November 5th. Tightens things up a lot though. I actually welded s10 brackets on under the axle for my bar to fit kinda. Had to order some cheap shocks without the metal sleeve and it’s still super close to the exhaust and the spare tire, but it’s on there and it works.


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