Warren99 Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 Not too long ago, I got a new gauge cluster, with a tachometer, from a Cherokee. When I plugged it up, everything seemed to work fine, except the tach's needle was roughly 6,000 rpms too high. When I revved it, it seemed to go up the right amount. Basically what I'm saying is I think that all that is wrong is the starting position of the needle. Is there a way to correct this, or is it another problem. Also, just in case it's important, here is more information on the Cherokee that I got it from: Vin: 1JCWL772XGT175333, 5 speed manual, v6, 2 doors, and it's 4 wheel drive. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 "V6" ? Was it an '86? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren99 Posted July 8, 2018 Author Share Posted July 8, 2018 Yeah, somehow of all things I forgot to mention, it was the year. It was an 86. V6 wasn't a typo of 86, it has a 2.8L V6. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 That tach runs off a traditional coil........don't think it's going to work for you. You'll need one from a '87 through '90. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren99 Posted July 8, 2018 Author Share Posted July 8, 2018 Ok. Thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnj92131 Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 Check the parts manual. Suspect there is a work around. My experience comes from a Renault diesel to TDI, so could be different. But worth some research on your part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 There should be a switch or potentiometer on your tach like the below. Whatever position it's in, switch / turn it to the opposite position. Then it should work for you accurately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren99 Posted July 8, 2018 Author Share Posted July 8, 2018 And just to clarify, that is after taking apart the two main parts of the whole cluster? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 You have to remove the tach from the cage, rotate the switch / pot, then re-install the tach in the cage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren99 Posted July 8, 2018 Author Share Posted July 8, 2018 ok, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnj92131 Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 Warren, Let us know what happens. This question comes up fr time to time. But fewer answers than questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren99 Posted July 8, 2018 Author Share Posted July 8, 2018 I'm going to wait til tomorrow, but when I do it, I'll update. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 2 hours ago, HOrnbrod said: There should be a switch or potentiometer on your tach like the below. Whatever position it's in, switch / turn it to the opposite position. Then it should work for you accurately. No, the early ones didn't have the potentiometer. That didn't come until the "new" instrument cluster design, in 1988. And it wouldn't make it 6,000 RPM high, anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 That tach in my pic is from an 88. Didn't notice that your "new" cluster is from an 86. If so I'm not sure you have a 4/6 switch on that 86 tach or not. take a peek anyways if you don't have the cluster installed yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren99 Posted July 9, 2018 Author Share Posted July 9, 2018 It's uninstalled now, and sorry for any confusion, I meant new as in a new cluster to put in my Mj. I'll dissect it tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Just now, Warren99 said: It's uninstalled now, and sorry for any confusion, I meant new as in a new cluster to put in my Mj. I'll dissect it tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 No switch on the 84-86 clusters. It has to match the cylinder count, there's no way to adjust it. '87 was the "swing" year. The gauge faces are the old style, and I've never pulled an '87 tachometer to see if it has the potentiometer. But -- even a wrong cylinder count wouldn't make it off by 6,000 RPM. That's past the redline with the engine at idle -- or shut off. Think about it -- the tachometer counts firing pulses. It's a 4-stroke engine, so each cylinder fires once every two revolutions. Each revolution generates 2 pulses for a 4-cylinder, 3 pulses for a 6-cylinder. So -- for a 6-cylinder 1,000 RPM means 3,000 pulses. Now connect it to a 4-cylinder tach. For the 4-cylinder, 1,000 RPM is 2,000 pulses. The tach is seeing 3,000 pulses, so it's going to register that as 1,500 RPM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 10 minutes ago, Eagle said: But -- even a wrong cylinder count wouldn't make it off by 6,000 RPM. That's past the redline with the engine at idle -- or shut off. Think about it -- the tachometer counts firing pulses. It's a 4-stroke engine, so each cylinder fires once every two revolutions. Each revolution generates 2 pulses for a 4-cylinder, 3 pulses for a 6-cylinder. So -- for a 6-cylinder 1,000 RPM means 3,000 pulses. Now connect it to a 4-cylinder tach. For the 4-cylinder, 1,000 RPM is 2,000 pulses. The tach is seeing 3,000 pulses, so it's going to register that as 1,500 RPM. That. I think either the tach is straight up broken, or there is a massive amount of noise in the signal or power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Or the needle has come off and someone stuck it back on wrong. The OP said it advances linearly with the RPMs. I had one come off my old cluster with the giant speedo . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 1 hour ago, HOrnbrod said: Or the needle has come off and someone stuck it back on wrong. The OP said it advances linearly with the RPMs. I had one come off my old cluster with the giant speedo . Right. The needles apparently can be removed -- that's how the white dial faces are installed. Personally, I'm terrified by the notion of pulling a needle off a gauge. I'm sure I'd break something trying to reinstall it. But -- if you have a tachometer that's off by 6,000 RPM -- what have you got to lose by trying? {Note: I actually don't see how it can be off by 6,000 RPM. The dial only goes to 7,000 RPM. If it's already reading 6,000 when the engine isn't running, then it'll be nearly pegged as soon as you start the engine, and if you rev the engine past 1,000 actual RPM the tach needle absolutely will be pegged.] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 3 hours ago, Eagle said: '87 was the "swing" year. The gauge faces are the old style, and I've never pulled an '87 tachometer to see if it has the potentiometer. Irrelevant to the thread, but I have an '87 cluster in my '89 and it does have the potentiometer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 8 hours ago, Eagle said: Right. The needles apparently can be removed -- that's how the white dial faces are installed. Personally, I'm terrified by the notion of pulling a needle off a gauge. I'm sure I'd break something trying to reinstall it. But -- if you have a tachometer that's off by 6,000 RPM -- what have you got to lose by trying? {Note: I actually don't see how it can be off by 6,000 RPM. The dial only goes to 7,000 RPM. If it's already reading 6,000 when the engine isn't running, then it'll be nearly pegged as soon as you start the engine, and if you rev the engine past 1,000 actual RPM the tach needle absolutely will be pegged.] Needle puller. Used these in a calibration lab back in the olde days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren99 Posted July 9, 2018 Author Share Posted July 9, 2018 I took the tachometer off and this is all I see on the back of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren99 Posted July 9, 2018 Author Share Posted July 9, 2018 I think my best bet is to take the needle off and put it back on as accurately as possible, because like you said, it's off by 6,000 rpm so what is there to lose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 1 hour ago, Warren99 said: I took the tachometer off and this is all I see on the back of it. Yes, it's completely different than the Renix face. I forget which year Renix cluster this one came off... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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