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Posted

The airbox on my '89 4.0 has distorted from age or heat, or both. It has opened up so it's wider through the middle which is letting the filter drop down & surely not filter the air properly.

Quick fix I can do is drill a hole on each side & run a length of 1/4" threaded rod through with a nut on each side to pull it together.

 

What I'm wondering is if it's possible to do away with the airbox & rig up a conical gauze filter. Looking at all the air tubes running into it I'm guessing not.

Posted

I made a cone filter setup with a peice of plastic pipe the right size with some fittings in it for the random PCV crap.

 

 

It worked. Flowed way better. Then it fell off.

 

 

But yeah, you can. One of the lines control the flapper thing in the front of it (designed to pull warm air from the header, for no apparent reason) and can just be thrown out. 2 larger ones are PCV or evap. And there might be another smaller one for some reason or other.

Posted
Quick fix I can do is drill a hole on each side & run a length of 1/4" threaded rod through with a nut on each side to pull it together.

Quicker fix: A length of coathanger like you were going to use the threaded rod. It can go between the filter vanes high in the box. I used the wire heated up to make the holes too.

This is if you don't get that good filter.

Posted

I made one myself for POng way back in the day. I used a short length of exhaust tubing (2.5 aluminized by 6") and some steel air chucks threaded into the side. For the mount I used a piece of 1x1/8 flat and secured it with the 2 nuts used for holding the airbox down

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Well I ordered the Rusty's intake today, along with the K&N filter. I haven't seen it yet but I know it has nipples for the large air tubes. What about the small airlines that go into the back of the OEM airbox? I know at least one of these runs into something that looks important. V :roll: V

Posted

i got the same setup from another company and just like rusty's it came with rubber caps to block those lines off....i just capped mine and the vacuum block...no problem for 3yrs now :D

Posted
Well I ordered the Rusty's intake today, along with the K&N filter.

 

 

Too late for that now. I thought about it, but for 30 bucks it didn't seem too bad.

Posted

I used some short wood dowels to force the box back into shape (put screws into the dowels with large washers on the outside)

Posted

Well I really wanted to get rid of the stock airbox. Only had the truck a few months & have already had to remove the stupid thing 3 times for various repairs. It just seems to be in the way of EVERYTHING :nuts:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Did you end up getting your Air tube yet?

 

and if you did what did you end up doing about the smaller lines that go to the back of the OEm air box... cause when the engine is running and I unplug one of them.. I hear a hissing noise of it sucking air in.. should I not be blocking that one off?

 

ohh yeah cause I just ordered the rustys air tube too!

Posted

The small 3/16 tube that goes in the back can just be pulled off the nipple it's attatched to & put a vacuum cap over the nipple.

The filter & intake tube fit fine, but the 2 larger hard plastic lines were nowhere near lining up with the nipples on the Rusty's tube. I hacksawed 'em off & ran some 1/2'' rubber hose to replace what I cut off. The front tube goes through a junction block dealie. I just cut it off both sides & ran the hose straight from the valve cover. Took about 2 feet of hose for this.

 

 

Damn I wish I could post pics. It's so obvious when I pop the hood :roll:

Posted

I live in the stone age. No digital camera or camera phone.

 

I'll try to clarify a bit. One of the 1/2" hard plastic lines runs from along the driver side fender then makes a hard 90 toward the engine, then another hard 90 forward. I cut it off halfway between the 90's & ran a short hose from there to the rear nipple on the Rusty's tube.

 

The other 1/2" hard plastic line comes from the valve cover. I cut it off there. It also runs through a support bracket along with several other lines. I just hacksawed it off on each side of the bracket. Now run a 2 ft piece of hose from the elbow you have on the valve cover to the front nipple on the Rusty's intake. Both lines should make a nice gradual "S" with the intake in the middle when your done.

 

The small 3/16 line you need to remove also goes to the above mentioned support bracket where you can simply pull it off & cover the nipple with a vacuum cap.

 

I hope this made sense.I did it a bit differently than recommended, but it works great.

Posted

do you actually notice a difference?

 

I have 2 3/16th lines comming from the back of the airbox with the engine running the one line makes a hiss and sucks air in hard.. and the other doesn't do a thing.... you explained to me what you did with on of the lines.. but wouldn't there be provisions for those lines to be mounted on the airtube?

Posted

The only 3/16 line I had went to the hot-air intake assembly that pulls heated air off the manifold in cold temps. I had 2 other lines that passed around the airbox & I have no idea what they are for, but they are still hooked up.

If you have a line hissing, it's a vacuum line that should be coming from the intake manifold, so you need to cap it off.

 

I did notice a difference on low end, but I haven't swapped out the restrictive muffler yet. I suspect that will help a bunch.

I didn't install the intake for performance(but I'll take it). I just wanted to eliminate the bulky stock airbox.

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