Intake bolts...Any secret?

[coolwind57]

Dude I feel like I am spinning in my tracks here.  I've given up for the night, but I've got all my intake/exhaust bolts started except for two bottom ones (center/rear).

 

There has got to be some secret to getting them started and secured.  I've tried many sizes of extensions, short as well as deep-well sockets, universal joints and I'm so far I'm failing with all.  I can't even fathom how the heck anyone can get an accurate torque on them, as the angles and lack of space around them are crazy.     I've gotten my tools under the manifold, I've gotten myself under the truck and I'm still fighting to find a solution--and petrified that I'll get a cross-thread.  

 

Anyone performed this lately on a Renix?  Any secrets or tips you can share? 

[saveevryjp1998]

Mine was hell. If I remember a good long handle or offset box end would be a great advantage. I ended up soaking it for a weak and hitting it with a mini torch off and on every couple of days. I was so scared they would snap off. I took my sweet time. I live in the rust belt, am 6'-4" and 300 lbs. I have learned to walk away after breaking to many bolts off rusty xjs and mjs.

[saveevryjp1998]

I came at those from the bottom too, but I've got a long reach. I think it was the middle one or the one on either side which was worst for me. I also for some reason thinking the rear was just a nut on a stud, but could be wrong. It was an 88 mj I didit last on about 2 years ago. The egr valve I will warn you though, if you keep it, the tube is far worse gettn that lined back up. Trick there is do it all as one unit with everything a little loose.My dorman header gave me greif even with a brand new egr tube.

[sinkrun]

Taking them out is easy wait until you try to put them back in. In from the front of the engine from the top for the center two. long skinny arms lots patiance and universal socket. You think the renix is bad do a 2000 up Cherokee.  I have replaced bolts with studs for reassembly so you can at least feel where the nuts go.

[DirtyComanche]

I don't recall them being any harder than anything else, but I'm used to having to put vaseline on my arm so I can get it through an undersized access hole to get at some fastener that nobody has ever actually laid eyes on.

 

I normally get at them from the top, not lying under the truck.  Firstly pull more stuff out of the way for access if you haven't already.  The airbox is the obvious big thing, but even things like the washer bottle being out of there might allow you to get a better angle.

 

You can try a magnetic extension or two, like these: https://www.mactools.ca/en-ca/NoValue/NoValue/f0b0964e-1523-48c8-aac4-a2fb01851610/Magnetic-Extensions

That way you can just fish the socket/bolt with a short extension on it to where it needs to go, then turn the extension with your fingers to start the bolt.

 

You can also tape the bolt into a socket and do the same thing.  Even a wobble/ujoint socket.

 

You can also sometimes just stick the bolt on the end of a telescoping magnet and finagle it into place and turn it with the magnet, you definitely won't cross thread it if you do that.

[coolwind57]

8 hours ago, saveevryjp1998 said:

The egr valve I will warn you though, if you keep it, the tube is far worse gettn that lined back up.

I did a delete and thought that would really help create some room.  Nope.  I am still struggling in getting those lower middle/rear ones started.

 

8 hours ago, saveevryjp1998 said:

I also for some reason thinking the rear was just a nut on a stud, but could be wrong.

There are three I think, with nut/stud.  They were used for the exhaust header.

 

Well guys, you let me down.  I thought there was a top-secret, magical tool or technique that existed. Looks like I'll be cursing and kicking just like you guys did.

 

 

[cruiser54]

Removing the air cleaner is a big help.

 

Ever use the "electrical tape in the socket" trick to hold the fastener while you use the tool to get things started? 

[mjeff87]

For the center bolts I've used a combination of short extensions with a universal joint, in 1/4" drive, to get them started.  You don't have a lot of throw on the ratchet, like 3-4 clicks, and it takes awhile.  The smaller 1/4" extension fits better between the runners.  Once you have them snugged up, switch to a 3/8" drive socket or box end wrench for final tightening.

 

And there are only 2 studs, not 3 (unless someone modified yours previously).  There's a stud at the front and at the rear that hold the ends of the exhaust manifold to the head.  All the rest of the fasteners are bolts, and all use Bellville washers.  The studs use normal flat washers.

 

 

[Jeep Driver]

It makes it any easier for you you could have gone to all studs it's easier to thread a nut on a stud then it is a bolt

  3/8 studs are available anywhere in any length

 

Also if you put a floor jack underneath the oil pan take the weight off the driver side engine mount pull the bolt out you can jack the engine up two or three inches it will tilt towards the passenger side and give you a lot of room to work the other thing you can do is put a jack stand underneath the harmonic balancer no weight on it just there for precaution

[coolwind57]

6 hours ago, cruiser54 said:

Removing the air cleaner is a big help.

 

Ever use the "electrical tape in the socket" trick to hold the fastener while you use the tool to get things started? 

that whole side of the engine has been stripped.  I did my freeze plugs and removed it all.

 

Yes, i have used the electrical tape trick when I did my CPS last Month.  And I tried it a bit last night, but gaining access and getting a bolt started is the trick here.  Another trick is wrapping your universal joint in electrical tape, which make it a bit more rigid and not so loose.  

43 minutes ago, mjeff87 said:

And there are only 2 studs, not 3 (unless someone modified yours previously).  There's a stud at the front and at the rear that hold the ends of the exhaust manifold to the head.  All the rest of the fasteners are bolts, and all use Bellville washers.

 

Yes, you're probably right.  I think that top center one is a regular bolt and not a stud now that I think about it.  I swear I was thinking about trying a 1/4" drive tonight.  This sounds like a good idea.  Best idea that I hadn't tried yet.  

 

[HOrnbrod]

22 minutes ago, Jeep Driver said:

It makes it any easier for you you could have gone to all studs it's easier to thread a nut on a stud then it is a bolt

  3/8 studs are available anywhere in any length

 

^^ This. I put studs in when I swapped in the 01 intake years ago. They are even tighter than the old style manifolds. With plenty of anti-seize. Easy to get the nuts started using a 1/4" drive w. extensions.

[coolwind57]

2 hours ago, Jeep Driver said:

It makes it any easier for you you could have gone to all studs it's easier to thread a nut on a stud then it is a bolt

  3/8 studs are available anywhere in any length

 

Also if you put a floor jack underneath the oil pan take the weight off the driver side engine mount pull the bolt out you can jack the engine up two or three inches it will tilt towards the passenger side and give you a lot of room to work the other thing you can do is put a jack stand underneath the harmonic balancer no weight on it just there for precaution

oohh, this is good!  Thanks.

[cruiser54]

LOL. It's not a tough job. 

[jeeppapa]

If you have little brother or sister those little arms my help. When my older brother had his Road Runner that was my main job, header bolts.


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[coolwind57]

13 hours ago, cruiser54 said:

LOL. It's not a tough job. 

Out of removing and reinstalling the oil filter adapter, motor mounts, starter, transmission, exhaust system, power steering pump, airbox/vacuum lines, drive shafts, coolant sending unit, fuel lines, tranny cooler lines and the two manifolds, that bloody intake back was the hardest part for me.  Beyond frustrating and unacceptably time consuming.  Rear freeze plugs were a close second place as far as a pain.   Transmission was third.

 

I ended up taking the manifold back off, removing the three exhaust studs and placing them in the hard-to-reach middle lower row.  I was then able to sit the intake on and that was the magic recipe.   I removed the throttle linage assembly off of the intake and that helped a little--should've taken it off to begin with I suppose.  I seemed to have had to use a different combination of extensions/u-joints for each of those lower bolts.  It sucked but I eventually got it.  I'm coming to Prescott, AZ next time this intake has to come off, screw it.  I'll gladly pay you well, my friend.  Haha

 

17 hours ago, mjeff87 said:

And there are only 2 studs, not 3 (unless someone modified yours previously). 

Someone must had modified it, as I confirmed last night that I had three.