Oizarod115 Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 i've looked at a couple different steering systems, my brother runs the JCR setup which is really sloppy but that could be his jeep not the steering. idk http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1TNST&Category_Code=S6 that ones going to require paid work of a shop though for reaming the knuckles. Currie enterprises has this kit here... http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=1219 which is quite a bit pricier but direct bolt in so about the same $ in the end. now, just pretend you don't know who the manufacturer is given their rep. but Rusty's has this kit which looks to be better than either as direct bolt-in and goes to a straight tie-rod with the drag-link attaching to the tie-rod. http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rustys&Product_Code=SC-250&Category_Code=ste so what do yall think? i know i could go with a stock ZJ setup too or just the JCR tie-rod here http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=STBLT&Category_Code=S6 thanks for your input/opinions in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 IMHO, the currie kit should not even be considered. It's a peice of $#!&. IMHO. JCR's setup is tried and proven. And uses better TREs. I know, you think 'who breaks TREs?'. I've seen it. It sucks. Besides, with the small TREs a good hit on the tie-rod can bend the threaded portion of them. The rusty's kit actually looks good, but I'd definatly consider it lighter duty. However, at least it solves a bunch of the problems with the stock steering. Either way you're going to want to run it OTK. So, I'd say either way you get to do some drilling and fiddling around to make it work. Yes, the rusty's would be easier as you'd just need the inserts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockhardzj Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 I'd steer clear of rusty's like the plague. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokhound Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 why not try Rock Krawler?? http://www.rockkrawler.com/ Comanche on 33 has one on his rig and it is the beef. When I get there this is what i am going to run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UNL1MTD Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 why not try Rock Krawler??http://www.rockkrawler.com/ Comanche on 33 has one on his rig and it is the beef. When I get there this is what i am going to run. a couple guys bought that in my club and after amount 3 months of trying to make it work they all went back to stock. all experienced an increase in normal driving vibration, loss of steering radius, and funky hiem movements. Its the beef offroad, but just aint thought out for DD jeeps. IMO. Dirty why don't you like the Currie? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warf90 Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 I can speak for the JCR 1 ton setup. I have been running it on my MJ for 6 months. It is an impressive set up and very beefy. I can't imagine breaking or bending this stuff. The only conplaint that I have is the polyurethane bushing they send with the kit that keeps it from rolling. It was toasted after two wheeling trips. I replaced it with a teflon bushing and it seems to be working very good now. As far as the installation, it was pretty easy to install. As long as you have the right drill bits and the right reamer. The knuckles themselves were very easy to drill, they are very soft, the pitman arm was a pain in the butt to ream out though. Hope this helps. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob S Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 I checked over the rusty's, I like it, looks decent. I have used some of rusty's stuff over the years, never had a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 11, 2007 Share Posted August 11, 2007 Dirty why don't you like the Currie? It's just a beefier version of the stock setup, which is fine. If you think the stock design was intelligent. Which, IMHO, it isn't. It'd work fine for many applications (I'll say up to 3"), but beyond that it'll just be problematic. Just like the stock setup. I know of somebody with it, and it was not money wisely spent. The RK setup looks horrible. Seems they attach the DL to the TR below it's centre line to try to keep the angles the same as stock. Looks like it will bind and screw up. Besides, I spy heims. Not friendly on a street driven setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted August 11, 2007 Author Share Posted August 11, 2007 thanks yeah, the rusty's setup looks mighty nice in design, and i agree the JCR steering isnt going ANYWHERE. that junk is beefy. but my problem with that is my brother jeep steers like pure hell. i'd want to knock around in another truck with it before i paid out the $$ for it to be sure its not the actual steering. and i hadn't thought about rockkrawler but ill have to agree that heims would wear out to quickly to be fun for street... my manche probly will be more like 90% work 10% play... (but we play rough when we get the chance) dirty: how would one go about running OTK with a setup like the rustys one... (I'm sure my local guy could get some uhh, "ideas" from it while using beefier rod.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 11, 2007 Share Posted August 11, 2007 Tell rusty's you want to run it OTK, and they will ream the DL/TR attachment point the other way (or perhaps it can be flipped, with the JCR setup you MUST tell them or it will not work). Then just drill the knuckles and tack/weld in those little cone flipsert things. Then looks at your track bar to DL angle/length relation and decide if you need to move anything (upper TB brack, lower bracket, TB length, pitman arm, etc). You can fudge on it, the only way to tell is to drive it and see if there is any bumpsteer. If you have steering problems before the install, check your ball joints and steering box while it's all apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted August 11, 2007 Author Share Posted August 11, 2007 Tell rusty's you want to run it OTK, and they will ream the DL/TR attachment point the other way (or perhaps it can be flipped, with the JCR setup you MUST tell them or it will not work). Then just drill the knuckles and tack/weld in those little cone flipsert things. Then looks at your track bar to DL angle/length relation and decide if you need to move anything (upper TB brack, lower bracket, TB length, pitman arm, etc). You can fudge on it, the only way to tell is to drive it and see if there is any bumpsteer. If you have steering problems before the install, check your ball joints and steering box while it's all apart. I'm stock now but the heep steers beautifully. and tracks well which isnt something id like to give up with the addition of some meaty-tires. ;) I'm probably going to top out at 6" in this truck... (for as long as the body lasts :roll: :brows: ) so i don't think OTK will really be necessary, whats yall's opinions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted August 11, 2007 Share Posted August 11, 2007 You could get away with just a new steering setup, but the OTK conversion costs very little and will raise the steering 1.5"~. It's a cheap mod for what you get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted August 11, 2007 Share Posted August 11, 2007 I have commented to you on this before. I think you know I also have the JCR steering on both my wheeling jeeps. Its perfect!! I did bend up a TRE with it though!!!! :eek: :eek: It was a faulty part and it was made from a supplier that they no longer use. What you and your brother need is the spacers from a "J" series truck. You use them in place of the grease boots on top of the TRE's. They eliminate the twist/flex that is a problem with this steering setup. The CRAPPY poly spacers are a direct result of MY INFORMING them that this FACTORY part exists!! They chose to make there own pieces, but they don't work for very long. You need to get the factory pieces. I will give you the PN's if you want to order them yourself locally. In case you didnt hear me...GET THE JCR SETUP!!! ;) :D CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86FUBAR Posted August 11, 2007 Share Posted August 11, 2007 I i just started the install of the JCR 1 ton OTK yesterday and though i havent driven it yet i would recomend it to every one . it didnt cost anything extra fer the otk ($299.95 shipped), i got the snapon reamer fer $23.00 and it has been the easyiest install/upgrade iv done to date. o and CW i would like those part #s if ya don't mind posting them again thanx. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted August 12, 2007 Author Share Posted August 12, 2007 I i just started the install of the JCR 1 ton OTK yesterday and though i havent driven it yet i would recomend it to every one . it didnt cost anything extra fer the otk ($299.95 shipped), i got the snapon reamer fer $23.00 and it has been the easyiest install/upgrade iv done to date. o and CW i would like those part #s if ya don't mind posting them again thanx. so how exactly would one ream his own knuckles, and there isnt anything in the way of running OTK? edit: and yeah CW post up those PNs cause anything to make that heep steer better would be great. it does seem to have awful bad TR roll. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jared Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 the rustys setup looks pretty nice, i would run it. buit definatly the best setup is the hd jcr one. they make some great quality products, and definatly beefy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86FUBAR Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 Its easy to do the ream n part but the drillin part is a little tuff. as fer stuf in the way u gota cut the sway bar mounts / steering stabelizer bracketry off and the worst part is u have to limit the steering by puting 1/4in spacers in the stops which is gona hurt a bit cause my manche is a LWB, but the way i see it is i will be saving money caus i won't be hiting my steering and breaking it and won't be puting as much stress on the front u-joints possibly breaking them . i will be finishing the install tomorow and posting it on my build thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 You will need TWO of these.. Image Not Found for every ONE of these... Image Not Found Looks like this mounted: OH and BTW, EVERYTHING is breakable!! Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted September 1, 2007 Author Share Posted September 1, 2007 CW: we put a metal washer in on top of the poly spacer to try and take up some of the slop, the TRE is still tight in the ream but theres an extra spacer and it didn't help with the slop the poly spacer is still just squishin around like jello when you steer back and forth, why does there have to be any slop at all? could you use just metal washers there? and how come the j-truck stuff fixes it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted September 1, 2007 Share Posted September 1, 2007 CW: we put a metal washer in on top of the poly spacer to try and take up some of the slop, the TRE is still tight in the ream but theres an extra spacer and it didn't help with the slop the poly spacer is still just squishin around like jello when you steer back and forth, why does there have to be any slop at all? could you use just metal washers there? and how come the j-truck stuff fixes it? Best answer I can give you is to say the JEEP did there home work... The poly spacers where a knee jerk responce from JCR to try to solve the problem..little actual field tryal. Remember, I am the one who informed them of this product as they had no idea it existed till I spoke and sent along pics to them. The poly spacers, do work for a VERY short time than squish out as you are finding. I have been running the factory stuff since the install in both jeeps with ZERO PROBLEMS ro any apreciable wear in either vehicle. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted September 1, 2007 Author Share Posted September 1, 2007 k, thanks man. jus twanted to get a little more info cause my brother was unhappy about his junk and wasn't to keen on that. stupid steering flexes SO much it looks like the TRE is gonna pop. but it doesn't so thats good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpm4x4 Posted September 2, 2007 Share Posted September 2, 2007 I i just started the install of the JCR 1 ton OTK yesterday and though i havent driven it yet i would recomend it to every one . it didnt cost anything extra fer the otk ($299.95 shipped), i got the snapon reamer fer $23.00 and it has been the easyiest install/upgrade iv done to date. o and CW i would like those part #s if ya don't mind posting them again thanx. That snap-on reamer has a lifetime warranty too!! I have turned in 2 for warranty for guys in my club. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86FUBAR Posted September 2, 2007 Share Posted September 2, 2007 I don't think they will be taking this one back i cut the end off in order to get a good bite on it in the drill chuck . ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepnuts311 Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 CW: like my brother (Oizarod115) said, my poly spacer is squishing around like jello, is this just due to polyurethanes natural elasticity due to it being a polymer? the parts that you posted up look like two hardened steel washers and a spacer, what material is that spacer made out of? in your pics it actually looks like it is squished. this steering is really gettin on my nerves because my jeep is all over the place, and i want this system to last even tho i paid almost nothing for it (JCR fubared my bumper....offered to pay shipping back to the shop to fix the bumper, or a steerin upgrade...i took the latter) -Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 Tim, Its some kind of hard or semi hard rubber. I doubt the washers or discs are hardened, just cad plated to resist rust. They do hold up MUCH longer than the poly crap JCR chose to use. I think your right, its just in polys nature to do what its doing in this case. What your seeing between the washers IS the rubber spacer. But it has a bit of a lip to kinda locate it between the washers. (See pic) Its only "OOZING" out, untill the washers touch. Giving the whole thing much greater stregnth. One other thing came to mind... is there any wobbles in your tapers? I mean I think you did yours on the vehicle and it possible to get them a bit out of round. If so, no spacer is going to help. Get some new outers and ream on a drill press or Bridgeport. Where you have control and can be sure everything is square. They will be perfect and your problems will be gone!! Good luck, CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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