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Bolt broke off in yoke


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I would drill a small whole in middle. some times a EZ out will work. Then  try a few different ways. small notch's to get with a screw driver if it is free turning. Some time a little heat can help it turn. If that did not work I would try to weld a drill bit in that whole made and reverse is out. I think it is a 8mm so it is very tight to work in.

 

If all else fails buy a new yoke.

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Junk it and upgrade it with a new u-bolt-style pinion yoke kit like THIS ONE. It's a stronger unit than the strap yoke and if you snap a u-bolt off later just replace the u-bolt, a couple of bucks and easy-peasy. I did a u-bolt pinion kit on my D44 a while ago. You have to replace the pinion yoke seal too of course, but it looks your AMC-20 pinion seal is leaking anyhow.  :D

KIT-7565.jpg

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Absolutely agree with the above, don't drill it, replace it.  Like Driver, I drilled out my strap yokes to convert to ubolts, it sucked.  A week later I had to replace the pinion seal so it came off anyway.  That whole seal replacement took less time than drilling out the holes and it was much easier.

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I had to dive deep into the bowels of photosucket to retrieve these-

 

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I completely forgot, you cannot convert a strap yoke to a ubolt yoke, there is not enough meat on the backside, the threads of the ubolt run through.

I used spare front shaft bolts and retained the straps, lots of tedious grinding. 

 

A groove gets worn into the yoke at the seal, all the polishing you want and it will still leak, for the $45 to my door...........never bother again.

 

Yeah, sometimes you just throw parts at it-

 

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For the D44 it's easy. They don't use a crush sleeve, they use shims. So when unscrewing the pinion nut, check the torque first; tolerance is 160-200 ft lbs. Then mark and count the turns carefully when removing it, then again when reinstalling the nut. Mine was 170 before taking it off, then 175 when tightening it. 

 

As for the AMC20, don't know if they use shims or a crush sleeve. I think crush sleeve?? But you'll have to look that up...

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If it does happen to be a crush sleeve, use a punch to mark its location and count how many threads are sticking out and count how many revolutions to remove the nut.  

 

When reassembling, don't go any further than you took it off or you will crush the sleeve more and cause improper preload.  With a new yoke you will probably not need to tighten it quite as far so just pay attention to how it feels tightening, you can tell when you are starting to crush the sleeve.  When I replaced the pinion seal on my Dana 30, I tightened to just about 1/4 turn away from my mark and stopped because I could feel the crush sleeve.  

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I was going to suggest PB’Laster and reverse drill bit and grabbers. I make a tiny hole in the center of the bolt then run the grabber in. (Looks like a bit with small “wings” that grab the bolt at Speed to spin it out. )


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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