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"Wendy"- 88 Jeep Comanche Build


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Been doing some work on wendy, This is going to be a long post and I am sorry ahead of time for it haha. 

I got a bunch of parts in the mail this past week, and this weekend I started tearing in to the jeep.

 

I first wanted to replace the radiator with the new one I got ( also got a new thermostat, radiator cap, hoses etc.) I pulled the old radiator out and I got to take out the housing for the thermostat, and SNAP on of the bolts broke in the head. I am at a loss of what to do, I tried vice grips, pb blaster, and a extractor bit to no avail. The picture is from when it first snapped

b2mxCAbl.jpg

 

Also radiator related, is it possible to fit an electric pusher fan on the front of the condenser and radiator behind the grill?

c6u491il.jpg

 

Besides breaking bolts, I also replaced the alternator a bunch of fuses and started the process of swapping kj disc onto the rear of the comanche ( with the help of the gf)

dVj4v7Fl.jpg

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Just have to get new wheel studs because the kj wheel studs are too big and won't go into the axle shaft, I am going to try the wheel studs from a dana 30 and see if those work, I read somewhere they do. Lastly I need to pick up some calipers to finalize the front and rear brake swap, but other than that the comanche build is going somewhat as planned :helpme:

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got the wheel studs needed to get one step closer to getting this comanche moving under her own power. They are from a (1997 jeep cherokee front end)

Part Numbers

AMOLmTWl.jpg

 

New Wheel Studs installed

WbVOGn4l.jpg

 

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Got started replacing parts on the comanche, I put the new thermostat in by drilling out the old bolt and threading the new hole. I replaced the radiator hoses, and the radiator itself. Got the new alternator installed and in the process of doing the clutch line and brake booster

 

1SSb9Ebl.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been A while since I updated (will be a picture heavy post) The comanche runs again ( I still have to do all the renix tips and some other odds and ends for the motor but it runs), Still need a clutch master cyclinder/slave for it to be able to drive which is hopefully next week. 

 

The way the engine bay looks now, Swapped in an aluminum valve cover from a 2.5l tj, you do need longer bolts than stock to be able to run it just an fyi, also got the new brake booster installed and bleed

q4Xg1DZ.jpg

 

Here are some pics, first off finished the kj disc brake swap minus parking/emergency brake cables

W7PNyfm.jpg

 

How I ran the brake lines, I didn't want them to be hanging down, but I am not sure if this is the best route (may undo it and run it under the leaf springs)

hCv9ldb.jpg   VHlDQCS.jpg

 

Also picked up some new wheels for the comanche, 15x8 american racing outlaw 2 (little teaser shot on the comanche)

8FGwbGs.jpg    FCCZuGN.jpg

 

 

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4 minutes ago, outlaw star said:

Looks good man. Looks like Walt n I nees to come down one weekend and give you a hand.

Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk
 

 

Haha It would be appreciated, all that is really left for it to be on the road is installing the pre-bleed clutch/slave system because I messed up the first one because I cut the plastic straps, other wise it would be driving. Honestly kinda scared to install the new pre-bleed system because I don't want to mess it up again

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2 minutes ago, Swampy said:

 

Haha It would be appreciated, all that is really left for it to be on the road is installing the pre-bleed clutch/slave system because I messed up the first one because I cut the plastic straps, other wise it would be driving. Honestly kinda scared to install the new pre-bleed system because I don't want to mess it up again

If you need help I can swing by and help you with that...

just make sure those straps on there...

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12 minutes ago, 88whitemanche said:

If you need help I can swing by and help you with that...

just make sure those straps on there...

 

It should get here tomorrow, so if anything just let me know when you are available

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Major milestone for me. Almost 9 months to date and I got the comanche driving yesterday. I still have plenty left on my plate to do but its going good. Now to check checking stuff off my list.

 

 

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12 hours ago, HOrnbrod said:

:banana::banana::banana:  2.5 sounded healthy.  

 It does haha, mostly because I am missing the bolts that hold the exhaust junction together, A new header and mid pipe is on the way soon.

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Now I still have to go through cruiser's renix tips but I have a few questions,

  1. my tail lights don't light up when I press on the brake, is it a fuse or a ground?
  2. my hazard lights worked, I left them on for about 2 mins and they stopped working, what could be the cause?
  3. my dash volt gauge is not working properly, is it a loose cable? 
  4. Lastly, How can I remove the rear glass/trim to fix some of the rust there?

Thanks again guys without your help, my Wendy wouldn't be where she is today. (its not much but something)

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tech questions from the OP should really go into the tech forum to get more eyes and also to be searchable in the future. :thumbsup:  

 

but as for the brake lights:

 

check the fuse

check power going to the brake switch

check power coming out of the brake switch when depressed.

clean the ground behind the drivers side taillight and check that the bulbs are in fact double filament.

 

and for the hazards, do your turn signals work?  if so, swap the round clicker pot in the fuse box with the turn signal pot and see if they work again.  :thumbsup:  

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7 hours ago, Pete M said:

tech questions from the OP should really go into the tech forum to get more eyes and also to be searchable in the future. :thumbsup:  

 

but as for the brake lights:

 

check the fuse

check power going to the brake switch

check power coming out of the brake switch when depressed.

clean the ground behind the drivers side taillight and check that the bulbs are in fact double filament.

 

and for the hazards, do your turn signals work?  if so, swap the round clicker pot in the fuse box with the turn signal pot and see if they work again.  :thumbsup:  

 

Got it, going to check that tomorrow and will repost questions in the tech forum

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Project update, I got my monstaliner 2 gallon tintable paint kit in predator green :grinyes: It was kinda hard choosing a color as they would all look great on the mj. 

 

I also got my new exhaust manifold and mid pipe. it looks so good in the box I can only imagine how good it will look in the jeep and how it will sound.

jGjeo5J.jpg

 

I was told to do the freeze plugs on the block and head of the engine which I will consider doing. 

Also was doing some body work in preparation of painting the body soon 

mF8Br9Gl.jpg

 

5FBYhrol.jpg  z41s2rOl.jpg

 

17DvGCpl.jpg

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I came to check out your build after talking on axle/tires post. Great build man. Now you have me thinking another project. I seen your question above about your brake lights and also seen you swapped brake setups. I bet you need to check the push rod tolerance of the brake light switch after the swap. Try putting a shim there, start small, test, slowly build up until you see it work if indeed that's what the cause is. If so you could pull the booster back out and weld on what you initially over ground. These are very sensitive. Its easier to start with extra and grind back with a dremel without having to go through all the work of complete removal if you did a dual diaphragm booster swap. Now some boosters have adjustable push rods. I never got one with it, but they are available. Good luck, I definitely will be checking in again.

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On 4/27/2018 at 10:09 PM, saveevryjp1998 said:

I came to check out your build after talking on axle/tires post. Great build man. Now you have me thinking another project. I seen your question above about your brake lights and also seen you swapped brake setups. I bet you need to check the push rod tolerance of the brake light switch after the swap. Try putting a shim there, start small, test, slowly build up until you see it work if indeed that's what the cause is. If so you could pull the booster back out and weld on what you initially over ground. These are very sensitive. Its easier to start with extra and grind back with a dremel without having to go through all the work of complete removal if you did a dual diaphragm booster swap. Now some boosters have adjustable push rods. I never got one with it, but they are available. Good luck, I definitely will be checking in again.

 

It was just a loose fuse for the brake lights haha. But thanks for the tip. it may help someone else as well

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Got a few updates done on Wendy showing her some love

First off I was making some new battery cables

nQXM22Ol.jpg bPtjdVQl.jpg

 

 

I also painted the black trim on the tail lights and smoked the tail lights with plastidip

r7IA773l.jpg 

Edf54OEl.jpg  VBvc0vkl.jpg aHsCXCTl.jpg

(the picture mocked up on the jeep does not have the glossifier coats on the light, the last picture is the finished product 6 coats of smoke and 3 coats of glossifier)

 

The new header I had got that installed too. It is intended for a 2.5l yj but it fit good in the mj the only concern is that the down pipe is too short it leaves about 1-1.5 feet before it can meet your preexisting exhaust. its not a huge problem just gotta lengthen either your new down pipe or your exhaust that is in place

lph4ozul.jpg  f9v1lTol.jpg

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And of course the first obligatory flex picture of the jeep. Its a baby flex but oh well

Iu4YdEfl.jpg

 

Next week she is getting the bed taken off, the whole truck prepped and painted. Hopefully next week as well it will be registered and on the road :banana:

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4 hours ago, Skorpyo said:

Awesome progress, keep up the good work!

 

Thanks! I'm pretty amazed myself, how well it is coming together and how I am doing this mostly on my own with some help of friends and the forum for help

 

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