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Price of stripped 88


Gene
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Hi everyone,

 

I have a 1988 longbed 4WD 4.0 5 speed with really bad frame rust. I have been looking for a recipient vehicle. Most of these are quite a distance away.

 

There is a stripped (no engine/trans/interior) 88 shortbed  RWD about 1 1/2 hours away being advertised. Described as perfect body, rust free.

 

A few pics posted seem to confirm this.

 

Any thoughts as to a reasonable price for this?

 

Thanks

 

Gene

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$300-$1000.  Varies greatly by locality though.

 

If I could find a pristine body without a driveline, and the timing was right, I would quite possibly drop $2000+ for it, with a smile on my face.

 

What do they want?  Is it worth it to YOU?

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$2500 for just the shell seems high.  If he wanted $2500 for the shell and all the parts, I'd jump all over it.

 

That said, if a guys spent a couple hours picking that thing apart, and it really is amazing, yeah, I'd certainly consider paying $2000 for it.  Consider, that is.  I actually don't like that blue (my first MJ was that colour actually), so I wouldn't be happy just buffing that paint, but that's a very personal thing.

 

If he doesn't want to budge on the price, you will probably have more luck trying to get him to include other things and keeping the price the same.  I'd try to get the 8.8 rear and the good engine thrown in.

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Hi everyone,

 

I have a 1988 longbed 4WD 4.0 5 speed with really bad frame rust. I have been looking for a recipient vehicle. Most of these are quite a distance away.

 

There is a stripped (no engine/trans/interior) 88 shortbed  RWD about 1 1/2 hours away being advertised. Described as perfect body, rust free.

 

A few pics posted seem to confirm this.

 

Any thoughts as to a reasonable price for this?

 

Thanks

 

Gene

 

 

 

Gene, 

 

I just scanned the hot-spots in the SE...........junk or high dollar at the moment. 

 

 

 

You have three choices-

 

1) Pay top dollar for a driver. 

 

2) Pay fair dollar for a runner at a distance, have your wife follow you home. 

 

3) Pay fair dollar for a carcass that is close to home. 

 

 

The one you found-

 

1.5 hours is nothing to me, I drive it every day. You should have looked at it today already. 

 

If he had a clear title in his name, I'd be prepared to offer $1800. I'd show him the cash, tell him that's what I'm willing to pay, and be prepared to walk away. It will cost you about $250 to have that truck delivered to your house via wrecker. My XJ cost me $110 to have delivered from one hour away but I'm accounting for exaggerated NE rates.

 

In my opinion, you should have bought that yesterday. You don't seem to be one to travel. 

 

Straight and clean bodies are getting real hard to find now. 

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Also, look through his pile of parts, tell him you want an interior...........or whatever you want of it...........tell him to throw it in. 

 

 

People will ask the world.....but you know the drill, cash talks, bull$#!& walks. 

 

 

Get what you can out of it. 

 

 

And never assume it will be there tomorrow, I've lost deals by being an hour too late. 

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https://nwga.craigslist.org/pts/6113822418.html

 

Above is an example of what I might consider. 

 

Not too far away from me, appears to be straight and clean. 

 

The bonded title issue...........well.............I'd just transfer my numbers over and use my title, no one would ever be the wiser.....but, that's me. 

 

 

Little far for you...........but, this is what I would be looking for. 

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I drove 4hrs round trip twice to get mine. Show a wad of cash pull it out and have it in your hand. Start at 1300 then tell him your willing to come up if he is willing to through in parts as you go. Each item can be bartered on as you go or let's say you'll come up 2oo for the intire interior. If he plays ball. He might pitch 300 settle in the middle and move on to the next item. So if you were going to pay 1900 for the shell anything you get on top of is gravy. Then sell the extra soon your perfect body only cost you 1400. You know how to play. But get those tail lights. This is all just an example but that's the way I would play it. As a shell you can even brake down your initial offer to him this way. The bed being worth this much and the cab being worth this much. Because it is just sitting on an XJ frame. He stripped it out hoping to increase his profit margins creating more work for you putting it back together so make him pay for it. The rest are XJ parts very common. Get the high dollar stuff first. Tell him you do want to give him his asking price but it has to be a fare deal for both of you. The goal is every one walks away happy. That a great line to use when negotiating. Best of luck but get on it. Put in the seat time and you might becoming out hundreds of dollars ahead. Hell I drive 1hr 1/2 just for a part some times. Just a though to you the most bang for the buck. Don't think you might what for the next straight rust free MJ to come along because that might be never. Best of luck to you knock em dead.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Hi everyone,

 

Thanks so much for all the thoughtful replies.

 

By your standards, I am a total wimp when it comes to this. Unfortunately, I have time and financial constraints (kids requiring two college tuitions and a wedding coming up in a year, you older guys will understand this!). Additionally, my space to store and work on vehicles is somewhat limited.

 

I envy you guys with the ability to do as you suggested above. I'm just not in that position right now.

 

I'm not giving up on this by any means, I'm just not going at it as quickly as you guys would!

 

Additionally, I'd really  like a long bed, I think it does a better job of hauling plywood, drywall, studs, and so forth.

 

Thanks again for all the responses!

 

Gene

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If the guy gutted a straight decent MJ to sell the parts he might have screwed him self because most of it are XJ parts.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not sure, I got the idea he gutted the vehicle in anticipation of doing a full restore, and never got around to it.
 
Gene
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Unfortunately, I have time and financial constraints (kids requiring two college tuitions.........

 

College tuition costs are crazy now. That's why both my daughters went to college under ROTC scholarships. Both of them were raised in a military environment so it wasn't hard to convince them. Their scholarships covered about 85% of the total bill. They are both now working off their obligatory payback time; one is a captain in the USAF and the other is an Army reservist.

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Unfortunately, I have time and financial constraints (kids requiring two college tuitions.........

 

College tuition costs are crazy now. That's why both my daughters went to college under ROTC scholarships. Both of them were raised in a military environment so it wasn't hard to convince them. Their scholarships covered about 85% of the total bill. They are both now working off their obligatory payback time; one is a captain in the USAF and the other is an Army reservist.

 

I salute you, sir, both for your  service to our country, as well as passing this on to the next generation!
 
Thanks.
 
Gene
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Additionally, I'd really  like a long bed, I think it does a better job of hauling plywood, drywall, studs, and so forth.
 

 

 Not much better. The long bed still isn't 8 feet inside, so you still can't put up the tailgate with 4x8 sheets in it. And there still isn't 4 feet clear between the wheel arches, so you still can't lay the panels flat on the floor.

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Additionally, I'd really  like a long bed, I think it does a better job of hauling plywood, drywall, studs, and so forth.
 

 

 Not much better. The long bed still isn't 8 feet inside, so you still can't put up the tailgate with 4x8 sheets in it. And there still isn't 4 feet clear between the wheel arches, so you still can't lay the panels flat on the floor.

 

Hi Eagle,

 

Yes, if I had to transport construction materials daily, a full size pickup would be much better.

 

For occasionally carrying 2X4X8'  or a few sheets of plywood or drywall, the 7' bed does pretty well.

 

We also have (my son is using it) a Chevy S10 with a 6' bed. Even carrying 2X4X8' becomes an adventure with a bed that short!

 

Gene

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That's the exact reason I got a longbed Gene. For everyday household hauling and occasional construction projects it's the best by far. It sucks for wheeling because of the rear overhang, but for everything else it's better than a shortbed.

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