cruiser54 Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 I did a Miata with 10 pounds of boost from a supercharger and had to have timing retard, an auxiliary fuel pressure regulator, knock sensor, and an in dash O2 sensor reading. . Was this your Miata? Do you drink Heineken? :rotfl2: No, and no. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyDeeds Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 hey LS miatas are nasty lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 hey LS miatas are nasty lol Ever see the one on Stacey David's show? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buxmj Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 I watched that whole "monster miata" build. I thought it was great. Hilarious how it went from flower power cruiser to "you may need to check your pants" cruiser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 I think you might want to look into a Megasquirt or a Microsquirt. I don't know how terrible they are to set up, but they work with the Renix sensors (the crank position being the main issue because the logic output from it is very different from anything else used by anyone). If that isn't ideal I don't know what I'd say, but probably ditching as much Renix stuff as possible and going to GM compatible components and some sort of aftermarket GM derived controls would be my gut instinct. There's a lot of options out there for adding EFI to engines that never had it, many of which come with provisions for forced induction, and given the lack of compatibility with Renix (and HO, before Hornbrod gets too excited by me saying this stuff) components and logic, you could easily be way ahead by ditching everything the factory provided. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyDeeds Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 I think you might want to look into a Megasquirt or a Microsquirt. I don't know how terrible they are to set up, but they work with the Renix sensors (the crank position being the main issue because the logic output from it is very different from anything else used by anyone). If that isn't ideal I don't know what I'd say, but probably ditching as much Renix stuff as possible and going to GM compatible components and some sort of aftermarket GM derived controls would be my gut instinct. There's a lot of options out there for adding EFI to engines that never had it, many of which come with provisions for forced induction, and given the lack of compatibility with Renix (and HO, before Hornbrod gets too excited by me saying this stuff) components and logic, you could easily be way ahead by ditching everything the factory provided. this is true. at this point I'm going to start with upgrading the entire fuel and ignition system and adding the timing control and see how the renix handles it. at 12 psi max i thin k it should be able to keep up seeing how ill ill be enabling it to use as much fuel as it needs for the afr and the timing control will help me stay on top of detonation. now i know i may still run into problems but ive seen a few online with not much info behind the project run on less this video as a example this was what gave me the original idea to boost my mj. hes using the same supercharger i am going to use with far less thinking ahead than i am. and if this old engine goes boom then i get to build a new stronger one and then i could go to a aftermarket efi system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 There's a lot of options out there for adding EFI to engines that never had it, many of which come with provisions for forced induction, and given the lack of compatibility with Renix (and HO, before Hornbrod gets too excited by me saying this stuff) components and logic, you could easily be way ahead by ditching everything the factory provided. I don't get excited by what anyone says Dirty. Even you. :yes: As far as MJ HO incompatibility, that's not quite right. Of course HO MJs all have OBD1 systems, and it's more difficult than adding forced induction to a 97 and up OBD2 4.0 since they are more standardized and easier to tune. Adding superchargers to 4.0 Jeeps has been done for years. Hesco ran an Eaton M90 on an OBD1 MJ back in the 90s and it's still going strong AFAIK. Plenty of kits available now online too too, like HERE. Looks like they are even "developing" one for the early MJs. Renix MJs? Maybe. Lot's of luck with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyDeeds Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 There's a lot of options out there for adding EFI to engines that never had it, many of which come with provisions for forced induction, and given the lack of compatibility with Renix (and HO, before Hornbrod gets too excited by me saying this stuff) components and logic, you could easily be way ahead by ditching everything the factory provided. I don't get excited by what anyone says Dirty. Even you. :yes: As far as MJ HO incompatibility, that's not quite right. Of course HO MJs all have OBD1 systems, and it's more difficult than adding forced induction to a 97 and up OBD2 4.0 since they are more standardized and easier to tune. Adding superchargers to 4.0 Jeeps has been done for years. Hesco ran an Eaton M90 on an OBD1 MJ back in the 90s and it's still going strong AFAIK. Plenty of kits available now online too too, like HERE. Looks like they are even "developing" one for the early MJs. Renix MJs? Maybe. Lot's of luck with that. i did see that looks like a good set up, but for the price id rather do it my self and say i did it my self. plus with the set up I'm planning ill be able to use a inercooler. however all the tuning options are nice. if i had the budget and wasnt a do it my self-er id go this rout. but the 7th injector isnt a bad idea. if i have to ill have a 7th injector bung made into my custom rail and intake and splice it into one of the existing injectors to supply extra fuel, however the fact I'm redoing my full fuel system and will have the ability to run higher fuel pressure and flow it may not even be necessary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyDeeds Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 http://cruiser54.com/?p=438 thanx thats a huge help there!! i noticed one of the comments mentioned putting a 90' ECU in his 87 XJ. would there be any real benefit to doing this? obviously the 90' ECU would be tuned for the High Output engine, so what would be the end results? Not tuned for the HO. That's another story. Put an 89 to 90 ECU in it. You'll love it. is the 90 ecu plug and play with the same connectors? oreillys has it for $108 with a $58 core! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 There are two different 1990 Renix ECUs for the 4.0: 53005429 (89-90 w/Man. Trans.) 53005428 (89-90 w/Auto. Trans.) Do they interchange with no ill effects? Just curious......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyDeeds Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 There are two different 1990 Renix ECUs for the 4.0: 53005429 (89-90 w/Man. Trans.) 53005428 (89-90 w/Auto. Trans.) Do they interchange with no ill effects? Just curious......... i wonder the same thing!! my mj was originally man trans. now the way i put my auto trans in dosnt require a tcm but i wonder if the engine tune is any different, like does the auto trans one tune for a few more hp to compensate for the small loss in brake hp in the TC?? i would think keeping brake hp numbers consistent between equipment and trim levels would be concern with the manufacturer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 I've read that on the HO MJ's the auto tranny ECU has a more aggressive advance curve than the standard tranny ECU. It's supposed to compensate for the parasitic loss inherent in the AW4's. I've tried both ECUs in my auto MJ and couldn't tell any difference on the butt dyno. Hesco also recommends using the auto ECUs for their stroker engines so it must do something on a real dyno.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Here's your answer. Use either ECU. It is plug and play. I've used auto ECUs in manual trans applications and manual trans ECUs in automatic trans applications. The only thing I've noticed, and you might not, is the idle stability after a cold start and dropping the auto in Drive very quickly. The manual ECU isn't quite as forgiving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyDeeds Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 cool looks like ill go with the auto ecu then its a few $$ cheaper too!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 cool looks like ill go with the auto ecu then its a few $$ cheaper too!! Just be sure the "new" ECU has the original 90 part number on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyDeeds Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 cool looks like ill go with the auto ecu then its a few $$ cheaper too!! Just be sure the "new" ECU has the original 90 part number on it. do you know the part number? and i don't see new ones they are all re mans Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 cool looks like ill go with the auto ecu then its a few $$ cheaper too!! Just be sure the "new" ECU has the original 90 part number on it. do you know the part number? and i don't see new ones they are all re mans See post 35. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Here's your answer. Use either ECU. It is plug and play. I've used auto ECUs in manual trans applications and manual trans ECUs in automatic trans applications. The only thing I've noticed, and you might not, is the idle stability after a cold start and dropping the auto in Drive very quickly. The manual ECU isn't quite as forgiving. MT ECU won't kick it 50 rpms for the PN function. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Here's your answer. Use either ECU. It is plug and play. I've used auto ECUs in manual trans applications and manual trans ECUs in automatic trans applications. The only thing I've noticed, and you might not, is the idle stability after a cold start and dropping the auto in Drive very quickly. The manual ECU isn't quite as forgiving. MT ECU won't kick it 50 rpms for the PN function. And you know that how? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Here's your answer. Use either ECU. It is plug and play. I've used auto ECUs in manual trans applications and manual trans ECUs in automatic trans applications. The only thing I've noticed, and you might not, is the idle stability after a cold start and dropping the auto in Drive very quickly. The manual ECU isn't quite as forgiving. MT ECU won't kick it 50 rpms for the PN function. And you know that how? Old AMC days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Here's your answer. Use either ECU. It is plug and play. I've used auto ECUs in manual trans applications and manual trans ECUs in automatic trans applications. The only thing I've noticed, and you might not, is the idle stability after a cold start and dropping the auto in Drive very quickly. The manual ECU isn't quite as forgiving. MT ECU won't kick it 50 rpms for the PN function. And you know that how? Old AMC days. I'll buy that!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyDeeds Posted January 9, 2017 Author Share Posted January 9, 2017 Here's your answer. Use either ECU. It is plug and play. I've used auto ECUs in manual trans applications and manual trans ECUs in automatic trans applications. The only thing I've noticed, and you might not, is the idle stability after a cold start and dropping the auto in Drive very quickly. The manual ECU isn't quite as forgiving. MT ECU won't kick it 50 rpms for the PN function. And you know that how? Old AMC days. I'll buy that!! so the moral of the story is still stick with the auto trans ecu? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Here's your answer. Use either ECU. It is plug and play. I've used auto ECUs in manual trans applications and manual trans ECUs in automatic trans applications. The only thing I've noticed, and you might not, is the idle stability after a cold start and dropping the auto in Drive very quickly. The manual ECU isn't quite as forgiving. MT ECU won't kick it 50 rpms for the PN function. And you know that how? Old AMC days. I'll buy that!! so the moral of the story is still stick with the auto trans ecu? Not a huge deal either way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyDeeds Posted January 9, 2017 Author Share Posted January 9, 2017 :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 Be sure to have it dynoed before and after the ECU swap. Would love to see this mythical 9HP gain. If it don't show on the dyno, it ain't there. :rotfl2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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