Floor Replacement Question

[MGriff013]

I recently have started tearing my MJ apart to give it the proper care that it needs. The previous owner kind of just threw things together and its been bothering me so I am finally getting around to fixing it up. My question is this, I have a few small holes in my floor boards and I am wondering rather than buy all new floor pans would it be possible to use old street signs to patch the floor? I've seen people do this to trunks and things like that but they completely cut out the floor first(Would like to avoid that if possible) and then use signs to replace it. I don't have any access to scrap metal or anything like that, but do have plenty of street signs readily available to me.  

[DirtyComanche]

Do it right and buy some satin coat.  Unless the floors are in bad shape, then buy the whole replacement pans from Rockauto or somewhere.

[gogmorgo]

Most street signs are aluminum, in my experience. Sure you could rivet them down but it wouldn't be the same as properly welded in panels.

[Tex06]

Street signs also aren't the most malleable of aluminum alloys either. If there's a junkyard nearby, you can get a deck lid (trunk lid) for pretty cheap and with a set of tinsnips, you'll have a good amount of metal. Or a hood, just whatever is flattest.

 

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[DirtyComanche]

Seriously, good clean satin coat is not expensive.  And you don't have existing paint/rust/dents on it to deal with.  I might have recycled steel a few times because I ran out at a bad time, but I would never do it if I wasn't in a bind.

[Tex06]

By satin coat do you mean satin paint or something like POR-15?

 

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[DirtyComanche]

It's sheetmetal that has a passified/annealed light surface galvanization.  It's what's typically used by OEMs to stamp body parts out of, although they may process it after stamping.  It still welds well, as it is not a thick zinc coating, and minimal (and I mean minimal, wipe it with a solvent basically) prep is required for welding.  It is much more corrosion resistant than standard bare sheetmetal, which normally will be oiled or it will be rusted by the time you purchase it.  It also takes paint extremely well providing you use a decent primer.  Lastly it's easier to form than typical cold rolled, as it has been annealed, which is very helpful if you're planning to do a bunch of hammer forming.

 

It just doesn't make any sense to pay a junkyard for a part to cut metal off of, when you can go to a real steel yard and they will sell you a virgin sheet for very little money.

[DirtyComanche]

Or you could just buy cold rolled.  It's less money.  Works fine too.  Just not my first choice.

[HOrnbrod]

It's a lightly coated galvanized steel. Not really needed in LA, but good for up north.

[DirtyComanche]

It's a lightly coated galvanized steel. Not really needed in LA, but good for up north.

 

It's a good match to the rest of the vehicle... If your floor rusted out to begin with, then you probably want to use it.

[mikekaz1]

my opinion, just buy the floor panel, they are like $30 a side,  and if you don't need it all, you can just cut out the sections you need.  and theyre already in the basic shape you need.

 

$30 for half the work, or $15 for double the work?

[mrmel2you]

Rock Auto has full pans (from Sherman) for $96.79 each.  >07546CL and 07546CR<  CL=left pan, CR=right pan.  Would like to know who makes pans for $30, would get them instead----depending on how good they are :)  Fill us in Mike :)  

[Tj1]

C2C is what I used, they needed trimming and custom adjustments though..... each side is $45

[acerocknroll]

I was gonna order the Key Parts pans from Quadratec, anyone have experience with these? They're supposed to be pretty nice, although I know they won't be an exact fit in an MJ

 

http://www.quadratec.com/products/72608_8500_07.htm

[mikekaz1]

Rock Auto has full pans (from Sherman) for $96.79 each.  >07546CL and 07546CR<  CL=left pan, CR=right pan.  Would like to know who makes pans for $30, would get them instead----depending on how good they are :)  Fill us in Mike :)

 

I got mine through keystone, but amazon has a bunch for ~$45

[mrmel2you]

Guess I'll give Keystone a look-see and then make like a big game hunter and start stalking in the Amazon, LOL :)  Thanks fellas for all the input, looks like I have a lot of comparing and shopping to do :)  May have to wait until after winter to get the pans in.  Wife and I are going on a cruise the first part of Dec. (late honeymoon and anniversary) will be a first for both of us :)  Finally got everything in from RockAuto yesterday, doing a FULL brake job on The Beast today (f&r) calipers/pads/rotors/wheel bearings/grease seals/shoes/hardware/drums/wheel cylinders/front lines/master cylinder.  Later, plans call for tearing out all the hard lines from the front to the rear. Will plumb in all new lines and put in an adjustable proportioning valve, nothing beats a clean and simple braking system (I'm old school, LOL).