MGriff013 Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 I recently have started tearing my MJ apart to give it the proper care that it needs. The previous owner kind of just threw things together and its been bothering me so I am finally getting around to fixing it up. My question is this, I have a few small holes in my floor boards and I am wondering rather than buy all new floor pans would it be possible to use old street signs to patch the floor? I've seen people do this to trunks and things like that but they completely cut out the floor first(Would like to avoid that if possible) and then use signs to replace it. I don't have any access to scrap metal or anything like that, but do have plenty of street signs readily available to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 Do it right and buy some satin coat. Unless the floors are in bad shape, then buy the whole replacement pans from Rockauto or somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 Most street signs are aluminum, in my experience. Sure you could rivet them down but it wouldn't be the same as properly welded in panels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 Street signs also aren't the most malleable of aluminum alloys either. If there's a junkyard nearby, you can get a deck lid (trunk lid) for pretty cheap and with a set of tinsnips, you'll have a good amount of metal. Or a hood, just whatever is flattest. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 Seriously, good clean satin coat is not expensive. And you don't have existing paint/rust/dents on it to deal with. I might have recycled steel a few times because I ran out at a bad time, but I would never do it if I wasn't in a bind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 By satin coat do you mean satin paint or something like POR-15? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 It's sheetmetal that has a passified/annealed light surface galvanization. It's what's typically used by OEMs to stamp body parts out of, although they may process it after stamping. It still welds well, as it is not a thick zinc coating, and minimal (and I mean minimal, wipe it with a solvent basically) prep is required for welding. It is much more corrosion resistant than standard bare sheetmetal, which normally will be oiled or it will be rusted by the time you purchase it. It also takes paint extremely well providing you use a decent primer. Lastly it's easier to form than typical cold rolled, as it has been annealed, which is very helpful if you're planning to do a bunch of hammer forming. It just doesn't make any sense to pay a junkyard for a part to cut metal off of, when you can go to a real steel yard and they will sell you a virgin sheet for very little money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 Or you could just buy cold rolled. It's less money. Works fine too. Just not my first choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 It's a lightly coated galvanized steel. Not really needed in LA, but good for up north. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 It's a lightly coated galvanized steel. Not really needed in LA, but good for up north. It's a good match to the rest of the vehicle... If your floor rusted out to begin with, then you probably want to use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekaz1 Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 my opinion, just buy the floor panel, they are like $30 a side, and if you don't need it all, you can just cut out the sections you need. and theyre already in the basic shape you need. $30 for half the work, or $15 for double the work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmel2you Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Rock Auto has full pans (from Sherman) for $96.79 each. >07546CL and 07546CR< CL=left pan, CR=right pan. Would like to know who makes pans for $30, would get them instead----depending on how good they are :) Fill us in Mike :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tj1 Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 C2C is what I used, they needed trimming and custom adjustments though..... each side is $45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acerocknroll Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 I was gonna order the Key Parts pans from Quadratec, anyone have experience with these? They're supposed to be pretty nice, although I know they won't be an exact fit in an MJ http://www.quadratec.com/products/72608_8500_07.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekaz1 Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 Rock Auto has full pans (from Sherman) for $96.79 each. >07546CL and 07546CR< CL=left pan, CR=right pan. Would like to know who makes pans for $30, would get them instead----depending on how good they are :) Fill us in Mike :) I got mine through keystone, but amazon has a bunch for ~$45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmel2you Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 Guess I'll give Keystone a look-see and then make like a big game hunter and start stalking in the Amazon, LOL :) Thanks fellas for all the input, looks like I have a lot of comparing and shopping to do :) May have to wait until after winter to get the pans in. Wife and I are going on a cruise the first part of Dec. (late honeymoon and anniversary) will be a first for both of us :) Finally got everything in from RockAuto yesterday, doing a FULL brake job on The Beast today (f&r) calipers/pads/rotors/wheel bearings/grease seals/shoes/hardware/drums/wheel cylinders/front lines/master cylinder. Later, plans call for tearing out all the hard lines from the front to the rear. Will plumb in all new lines and put in an adjustable proportioning valve, nothing beats a clean and simple braking system (I'm old school, LOL). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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