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I finally installed some door parts. The smokers vent windows are well worth it the time to pull them Out of the pickapartFC11F6B9-21DD-4768-B3F3-8DDE7F5A85D0.jpeg.d3ab1b4bc3d0ed4b42861d31fccb5e4d.jpeg42758D2D-A6FF-4378-A530-93496D0009E4.jpeg.db12871288235a63707f86532ffcb940.jpeg I found a thread on here with the part number for the lower window trim. And have the runner trim on the way because the passenger one is shot. The drivers side is really good7BC17ADF-0726-498A-B962-B4B84AE91B52.jpeg.561b75b2bf8c9cdfcd1930ef31a49f15.jpeg

 

also I learned a lesson on welding bungs. I was trying to shorten my tie rod and I think I got a bb into the threads and didn’t know it. Of course it’s the left hand thread. I pulled all the threads out of the bung trying to get it out.F121689D-C6DF-4695-9BA1-62240BE57CD1.jpeg.c22365f70210629bd8d2020d8804a38b.jpeg 

 

i was able to mill the end of the hiem off at work and just cut the old hiem off and reweld a new bung in

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I drove the truck to work today. 20 minutes each way. 

No stabilizer. Worn out swampers. 4th gear is everything you want to keep it in your lane. I took all back roads. it did really good actually. 4th gear you have to drive it, it’s not awful but you gotta pay attention for sure. With nothing slowing the steering down it wanders a bit. But it cruises 3rd like a stock truck. Still has plenty of power with the 4.10 gears. I wanna go even lower with the gearing but it’s a start. My stock power steering pump is feeling it though. Over heating and spitting fluid out the cap. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

ordered fender flares from notch customs the m max. They are the best looking flares other then the flat tube ones in my opinion. Notch customs has them on backorder at the moment but I’m hoping I can get the template for them so I can go ahead and cut the fenders. For now it’s hauling wood and daily driving

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  • 2 weeks later...

Stretched the mjs legs a bit at work the other day to get a few measurements and make sure my trim job was sufficient to clear for the mild wheelin trip I was taking today. 

From the bottom of the tire to the ground measured 27.5. I think it would go more but the shock was pretty maxed on the drivers side and I don’t wanna destroy them right away. It never picked a tire off the ground completely. There is enough room to stock your hand all the way around the tire.

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well I didn’t buy bump-stops before  our adventure today and I crammed the wheel up into the fender sliced the tire really good and bent a the fender way up. 

I managed to not take any pictures today. I was to excited about being out. We did 150 miles. some interstate a lot of backroads, a few miles of wheelin to more service roads and back. Then stopped at Lowe’s and bought a bunch of lumber covered in mud. I did get a pic of my brother-in-law’s xj on 35s F84CBEA7-6825-45C7-B0BB-99A6F2E76FFF.jpeg.e2296c1d850d26f32fa4b29c7648ae52.jpeg4BCE90CB-818F-479E-BC23-63A7118E2F8B.jpeg.e7bc8529fc5b148337f19a4090669ef8.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/19/2019 at 9:44 PM, dustyinthedirt said:

I finally installed some door parts. The smokers vent windows are well worth it the time to pull them Out of the pickapartFC11F6B9-21DD-4768-B3F3-8DDE7F5A85D0.jpeg.d3ab1b4bc3d0ed4b42861d31fccb5e4d.jpeg42758D2D-A6FF-4378-A530-93496D0009E4.jpeg.db12871288235a63707f86532ffcb940.jpeg I found a thread on here with the part number for the lower window trim. And have the runner trim on the way because the passenger one is shot. The drivers side is really good7BC17ADF-0726-498A-B962-B4B84AE91B52.jpeg.561b75b2bf8c9cdfcd1930ef31a49f15.jpeg

 

also I learned a lesson on welding bungs. I was trying to shorten my tie rod and I think I got a bb into the threads and didn’t know it. Of course it’s the left hand thread. I pulled all the threads out of the bung trying to get it out.F121689D-C6DF-4695-9BA1-62240BE57CD1.jpeg.c22365f70210629bd8d2020d8804a38b.jpeg 

 

i was able to mill the end of the hiem off at work and just cut the old hiem off and reweld a new bung in

Do you happen to still have the part number for the lower window trim? I haven't been able to find it. I was debating grabbing from a junkyard but would prefer new if possible.

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 10/16/2019 at 7:43 PM, russel730 said:

Do you happen to still have the part number for the lower window trim? I haven't been able to find it. I was debating grabbing from a junkyard but would prefer new if possible.

I don’t have the part number anymore. But I do remember that I just googled lower window trim to find and the. Did the same with the runner trim. Found them both for less then $20 a piece 

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I mounted the front notch custom fender flares then Had to get some fire wood. So driveway stuntin it is 9263F5EA-768D-41F7-8F87-3F8FD7CE9DB9.jpeg.a13484e60ab69f57528ea00add2ed394.jpeg you have to fit the flares a little before they fit just right but they are super nice, easy to install and you can customize them anyway to fit your needs for the most part. I slid the front forward an inch and the rear back an inchCBFA6E06-1C62-427C-8DEA-CBABC3EA4FBE.jpeg.57271f9ae0ed6a33578cf59bc2c7cb57.jpeg3EE2D851-FFD0-4573-A8E6-BD4ED029C9EF.jpeg.14ee20df5d12aa5a5cde99775ea9c59d.jpeg

havent got it back out of the garage since I got the back on. Still need to paint them black

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Looking good! Will be keeping up with this one.
I love my M Max flares hands down best option for our trucks.

I got have 35s and 5ish inches of lift on long arms stretched an inch or so in the front. A little inner fender well trimming and smoothing out and I have 3 or so inches of up travel with no rubbing with a ruff stuff bumper trimmed just a tad.

Keep up the good work!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • 3 weeks later...

Did some measuring and am gonna have way more up travel in the shock then the tire is gonna allow so I will need to make new shock tabs and move the axle side of the shock up a couple inches. Also got the M max flares painted and installed.E9D52170-2962-4168-A429-041C42244ABD.jpeg.b4013dbac52179f8a504cf9ee05aa3b1.jpeg84466574-BD76-4EC0-803B-868D26041A38.jpeg.287ffe09d560c65ff3e4ec950136f6ec.jpegC2020FAF-BFDC-4241-9188-1310EC9429DC.jpeg.648d15ced76c8a39fcf7997831b27a03.jpegC1ABA1D1-ADE1-4485-A8FF-170D4BC3FC22.jpeg.4fccf1adb70192f9357de3ac9a3b5a21.jpeg

 

 

Along with the skid plate. The truck has a flat belly back to the gas tank skid. 43371298-E929-420C-9869-1FE659067BD5.jpeg.dc1a847d6fed2f85ec2a53fd84e199f5.jpeg

 

I ground down the flats on two nuts to fit into round holes better. Then drilled a hole on both sides of the tunnel below the seat belt mounts and welded in these “threaded inserts” and was able to stiffen up the center of the skid.

 

1D2EA1C0-757C-470D-88F7-780D76618776.jpeg.c53b29aaf534eefea92363d316b0d9e9.jpegF50C64BF-8A1B-45F4-99D7-4E1050C209A9.jpeg.b09ae93e26e7cbe167eb6fad87cc8758.jpegD3DB8E50-F0CD-488F-A2A5-BACB689B47DC.jpeg.99657271a13f12a8f1b6eadc5ef33dfb.jpeg

 

Maybe even help strengthen the truck? Maybe. It is tied to the crossmember and control arm mounts which are secured through the frame railsimage.jpg.5357d2d348420b12d0a4b6b3bed8343d.jpg

its got a flat belly with all the bolt heads recessed. 

image.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Scooped up some new wheels and tires on Black Friday. Maxxis trepidor radials and a set of 17” wheels since mine were 16” and there wasn’t hardly any tire options other then swampers which are great but not for longevityD7E1F640-4D96-45ED-8DC6-FB8B6024A08B.jpeg.b387c5c04cd8031b23c34a8b336e8116.jpegD90F0C2F-39E5-4025-8D51-AFFBDF66074E.jpeg.5a272fb6aca4db65a7e8252ad8e67024.jpeg

 

its carzy what what a difference good tires will make. It’s like driving a stock truck now. Doesn’t wander until you hit 80 and then you got both hands on the wheel :driving:

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  • 1 month later...

Took the truck out for a little wheeling this weekend with a friend in his grand Cherokee. The MJ did the whole trail in two wheel drive except for two parts where I wanted to try and climb a very muddy hill. These trepidor radials are fantastic tires. Clean out at very low speeds. Ended up braking the high steers welds and didn’t notice till I almost got back home and was spraying the truck off. I did finish driving it home with out any problem the high steer has a 3/4 bolt through the knuckle. Time to remake and do it right this time. We heated the knuckle to a high temp tig welded it with the right rod. And cooked it down in a bucket of sand. This time I’m gonna still and tap the knuckle and bolt it down. Maybe that will keep it in place

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25 minutes ago, CapitalCityPioneer said:

Wow this is awesome! Thanks for the detailed write-up. You really are an artist with your metal work.

Just found a super cheap killer deal Dana50 front axle I'm interested in buying, and its cool to see you having such success with one where so many people say they're not worth it!

Thanks man! The D50 are pretty tough. Most people who talk crap about them don’t know that they are pretty much the same axle as a 60 on the knuckles outward and the inners are a beefed up 44. Also they are made for a vehicle that weighs 6000 pounds and our trucks weigh in at less then 3000 with way less horse pressure. 

The big bonus is they are pretty cheap. I got my set with 4.10 gears for $700

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16 minutes ago, dustyinthedirt said:

Thanks man! The D50 are pretty tough. Most people who talk crap about them don’t know that they are pretty much the same axle as a 60 on the knuckles outward and the inners are a beefed up 44. Also they are made for a vehicle that weighs 6000 pounds and our trucks weigh in at less then 3000 with way less horse pressure. 

The big bonus is they are pretty cheap. I got my set with 4.10 gears for $700

 

Yeah that's the gist I've been getting from them, good to hear that's what it actually is!

I found it for a screaming deal, just need axle shafts, for $100. Hoping to find 4.56 gearing and some form of locker or LSD for it, I don't need it in right away so I've got a lot of time to sit on it and save to upgrade.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/30/2019 at 10:59 AM, dustyinthedirt said:

Did some measuring and am gonna have way more up travel in the shock then the tire is gonna allow so I will need to make new shock tabs and move the axle side of the shock up a couple inches. Also got the M max flares painted and installed.E9D52170-2962-4168-A429-041C42244ABD.jpeg.b4013dbac52179f8a504cf9ee05aa3b1.jpeg84466574-BD76-4EC0-803B-868D26041A38.jpeg.287ffe09d560c65ff3e4ec950136f6ec.jpegC2020FAF-BFDC-4241-9188-1310EC9429DC.jpeg.648d15ced76c8a39fcf7997831b27a03.jpegC1ABA1D1-ADE1-4485-A8FF-170D4BC3FC22.jpeg.4fccf1adb70192f9357de3ac9a3b5a21.jpeg

 

 

Along with the skid plate. The truck has a flat belly back to the gas tank skid. 43371298-E929-420C-9869-1FE659067BD5.jpeg.dc1a847d6fed2f85ec2a53fd84e199f5.jpeg

 

I ground down the flats on two nuts to fit into round holes better. Then drilled a hole on both sides of the tunnel below the seat belt mounts and welded in these “threaded inserts” and was able to stiffen up the center of the skid.

 

1D2EA1C0-757C-470D-88F7-780D76618776.jpeg.c53b29aaf534eefea92363d316b0d9e9.jpegF50C64BF-8A1B-45F4-99D7-4E1050C209A9.jpeg.b09ae93e26e7cbe167eb6fad87cc8758.jpegD3DB8E50-F0CD-488F-A2A5-BACB689B47DC.jpeg.99657271a13f12a8f1b6eadc5ef33dfb.jpeg

 

Maybe even help strengthen the truck? Maybe. It is tied to the crossmember and control arm mounts which are secured through the frame railsimage.jpg.5357d2d348420b12d0a4b6b3bed8343d.jpg

its got a flat belly with all the bolt heads recessed. 

image.jpg

 

How much work to get the Notch M-Max flares to fit? did you have to do a lot of sanding and rework?

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