Boosting a MJ??!!?

[DirtyDeeds]

ok guys this ones for the boosted MJ owners out there, i have a few questions. next months project is putting a Eaton M90 in my 87 MJ. i have a few questions that only some one whos boosted their MJ can answer for me. if you have tips suggestions and what not id be happy to listen, and when you reply post a pix of your set up!  :rock on:  

 

1. BRAKE BOOSTER: ok so i already know the boost will make my factory booster useless, so i have 2 options. run no power brakes (hell no lol) or add an electric vacuum pump and canister. i plan on running the electric pump seeing how i can get one from a early 2000's ford for about $50. any one else try something diff? and is there anything else i will have to power with it?

 

2. FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR: ok at the moment this is my biggest concern. the factory regulator mounted on the fuel rail is vacuum controlled. now i know the easy route is to remove and bypass it and ad an adjustable regulator from like summit or jeggs, BUT i would like to use the factory one because it does adjust the pressure to meed running needs to an extent. if i have to go the route of the aftermarket regulator, how would i bypass the old one and attach my line into the rail? i know for the return line i wouldnt need to mess with inlet I'm not so sure. (p.s. I'm removing factory fuel tank assembly and mounting a fuel cell in the bed with a racing out tank fuel pump. the pump is rated at 45psi) ideas?

 

3. EMISSIONS JUNK/EGR: what do i do with the slue of emissions stuff running off vacuum? I'm pretty sure the boost with blow all thos lines off. I'm going to have a BOV set to only 6psi to start to run safe but still don't know what to do with all that stuff. here in my part of texas emissions isnt required after 25 years so i would remove it but ive seen some threds on the topic that suggest ill have running issues after.

 

4. MAP SENSOR/IDLE ARE CONTROL VALVE: how will the boost affect the operation of these? any concerns i should have? i was wondering cuz the map is vacuum dependent.

 

5. INERCOOLERS: if you run one, how do yall have them set up?

 

anything else i should be taking into consideration?    

 

thanx for reading and helping and don't forget to post those set ups!! this is a early mock up of placement, I'm going to relocate my batter to make room for piping. ideas for battery relocation spots? i was thinking behind the passenger seat XD ive already relocated my ignition coil to underneath my over flow tank

 

   

[HOrnbrod]

 

http://www.northamericanxjassociation.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1105019

[Pete M]

is there room for an intercooler?  space is pretty tight up there.  :dunno:

 

personally, I prefer cutting a hole in the hood :yes:  (no , that's not mine :(  )

 

[DirtyDeeds]

is there room for an intercooler?  space is pretty tight up there.  :dunno:

 

personally, I prefer cutting a hole in the hood :yes:  (no , that's not mine :(  )

 

if theres no ac then yes there is room for a 3"  inner cooler between the grill and the radiator  

[DirtyComanche]

Point #1.  Hydroboost.  IMHO it's almost always the answer.  I didn't do it on the rig I'm building right now because I would be into it for more time than I wanted (would have to tear down the booster and port it, long story why I would need to do that, normally you wouldn't, it would consumer a lot of time), but it provides spectacular braking with tight packaging and runs off the P/S pump.  Plus the boosters basically don't go bad, worst case they're a seal kit away from being good again (but that is very time consuming), so junkyard units can be had cheap and tend to work fine.  I don't know what to tell you for an application, but American fullsize trucks/vans in the 3/4 ton and larger style often have them.

 

The only other vacuum you need is for HVAC controls, which can possibly be worked around, and perhaps 4wd actuation if you have a CAD and are 4wd.

 

#3.  You can ditch the EGR.  IIRC, a 3/8 NPT tap will thread the passage in the intake manifold perfectly, just stick a pipe plug in it.  You can run these engine without a PCV, just put a vent filter in place of the rear hose and leave the front one running to the pre-filter side of the intake.  Make sure all your seals are in good shape if you do this.  There probably is a better solution though as many boosted cars use some sort of a PCV system still.  The charcoal canister can be vented overboard, or you can just leave it vented into the pre-filter side.

[Wiggilez]

 

is there room for an intercooler?  space is pretty tight up there.  :dunno:

 

personally, I prefer cutting a hole in the hood :yes:  (no , that's not mine :(  )

 

if theres no ac then yes there is room for a 3"  inner cooler between the grill and the radiator  

 

 

I have nothing productive to add, but 

 

Mad-Max XJ = :D

[cruiser54]

I had a supercharged car with power brakes and was no issue.

 

When you hit the brakes, you're out of boost, and the booster has a check valve.....

[DirtyComanche]

I had a supercharged car with power brakes and was no issue.

 

When you hit the brakes, you're out of boost, and the booster has a check valve.....

 

True.

 

Heater controls should still work too, there's a check valve in the vacuum reservoir.

[A-man930]

Back when I was more seriously considering a turbo I measured a Sprinter intercooler. I'll have to find the pics

[DirtyDeeds]

well any comments on my fuel pressure regulator issue? 

[cruiser54]

well any comments on my fuel pressure regulator issue? 

What issue? You'll need a 6 to 1 auxiliary fuel pressure regulator. Contact Corky Bell at Bell engineering. 

[DirtyDeeds]

 

well any comments on my fuel pressure regulator issue? 

What issue? You'll need a 6 to 1 auxiliary fuel pressure regulator. Contact Corky Bell at Bell engineering. 

 

well a regulator in general isnt what I'm concerned about, its removing the factory one and attaching my fuel line to the rail, i was under the impression that the regulator pressed into a seat shaped to the regulator