D35 gearing questions

[Manche-89]

Hey guys, first of all I'm wondering what gears I'll be able to toss in my stock 35, (I know, be better to go for a 44 or something else :p) money's pretty tight, and I don't have a bunch of time on my hands lol.

 

I was looking at rustys, and they say I need a new case? If I'm not mistaken that means a new housing?

 

If so, did they make any 35's with a deeper ratio than 3:07? And where in the crap would I find one around ND?

 

Thanks for any help in advance :)

[Pete M]

the deepest 35 gears that were available from the factory were 4.56. 

 

you do know it's not quite as easy as just bolting in the parts, yes?  it's a $500+ job if you pay someone to do it.

 

and no, you shouldn't waste your money on a dana 35.  leave it alone, save up, and invest your cash in an axle that will last.  . :MJ 1: .  In a lot of cases, it'll be cheaper.

[Megadan]

For the cost of a gear swap in that 35 you could buy a good used Ford 8.8 from an Explorer in and pay somebody to weld the leaf perches on for you.  As long as you don't want anything beyond a 4.10 at least.

[Eagle]

Hey guys, first of all I'm wondering what gears I'll be able to toss in my stock 35, (I know, be better to go for a 44 or something else :P) money's pretty tight, and I don't have a bunch of time on my hands lol.

 

I was looking at rustys, and they say I need a new case? If I'm not mistaken that means a new housing?

 

If so, did they make any 35's with a deeper ratio than 3:07? And where in the crap would I find one around ND?

 

Thanks for any help in advance :)

You can get gears up to 4.88 for the D35. Maybe even deeper, but 4.88 is the deepest you can go with a D30 in front, so I've never looked beyond that.

 

Rusty's is not talking about a new housing, they're referring to the carrier. Most axles (including both the Dana 35 and the Dana 44) have a "carrier split," which means gears in one range of ratios need one carrier and the gears in another range take a different carrier. The Chrysler 8.25, however, does NOT have a carrier break -- all ratios use the same carrier, and backlash is adjusted with a set screw.

 

For the Dana 35, the carrier break is divided into 3.31 and lower numerically, and 3.55 and higher numerically. IMHO it isn't worth spending the money for new gears and a new carrier in a Dana 35. Choose 4.10 as your ratio, then go junkyard shopping for a set of 4.10 front and rear axles out of a 4-cylinder Cherokee.

 

Having written that, let's back up and ask about specifics: Is your truck 2WD or 4WD? If it's 2WD, do you plan to convert to 4WD? What size tires are you running now, and what size tires do you plan to run in the future? What engine do you have? (I assume, if you have 3.07 gears, that it's a 4.0L with a 5-speed, but let's be sure we're all on the same page.)

[gogmorgo]

3.07 is the highest ratio available. Numerically low indicates a higher ratio. Also available in MJ's are 3.31, 3.55, 3.73, 4.10, and 4.56.

3.55 is probably the more common one, the next being the 3.07's you already have. As was mentioned, it's probably going to be quicker, easier, and cheaper just to swap the axles vs getting them regeared. But what you're wanting to do with them will dictate which ratio you want to use. XJ axles are the same as MJ axles except for the rear perches, and it's not going to be ridiculous to pay a shop to re-weld them for you.

 

As far as where to find in ND, car-part.com may be helpful in finding junkyard axles. If you're not concerned about crossing the border, depending on where you are, Wesman Salvage in Brandon, Manitoba is "nearby" and has a few MJ's with 3.55 rear axles and one with 3.31's. Might want to call first about prices (and/or arrange to have them pulled before you get there). There are probably closer yards though if all you're after is 3.55's. If you're going for XJ axles, (more available and the cost of welding perches likely beats driving) I'd recommend getting them out of a 97-99.

[yxmj]

Well whether your just doing the rear or both there is one more easy alternative

 

..if you are willing to weld in  perches... and If you do not want to go as low as 4.56's but lower than the 3.55......

 

When you are hunting the junkyards and for sale ads keep your eyes open for any Yj, TJ, XJ, MJ that came with a 2.5.....good chance it will have 4.10/4.11 (or the 4.56) gears....and will be no more work to install than any other of the ones previously mentioned.

 

4.10's will make it stand up and bark when you put your foot into it.... . :MJ 1: .

 

Edit (I missed that Eagle pointed you in that direction already)...... great minds think alike.... :laughin:

[onlyinajeep726]

Yea, regearing is an expensive job and not something the average Jeeper can do on their own.  I wouldn't waste my money regearing a 35.  $150 for the gears + $500+ for the labor to install.  You're talking about potentially $650+ for an axle that will not handle what you could put a 44 or 8.8 would.  I got an 8.8 from a junkyard, with disc brakes, complete to rotor-to-rotor, with 4.10's for just over $200.  I bought spring perches, u-bolts & plates, and shock mounts for another $120, and pinion flange adapter (to adapt the driveshaft) for $40.  Welded it myself, and went SOA lift.  Cost under $500 and will still be rolling far longer than that 35 with the same size tires.

 

[HOrnbrod]

Everybody forgets to mention the carrier break killer - thick gears.  :P  And I've never paid more than $300 labor for a regear. Guess it depends where you live....................