chopper35nj Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 I'm getting ready to put 2" spacers in the front of my 87 and want to be prepared going in, Logic would tell me that the new links should be 2" longer to match the lift, but just because logic would dictate doesn't mean that it is correct. In this case I'm dealing with two springs, the sway bar (torsional spring) and the coil at each corner. I am relating this to a set of rear leaf springs where adding 2" of shackle adds 1" of lift. So..... the question is, should I go to a later model Jeep end link that is 1" longer or the F350 rear link that is approx. 2" longer. The stock links appear to be too short at stock height. And just to be clear, I am not looking for the suggestion that I spend a mint on adjustable, quick disconnect links, I'm not going to. Stock style (only longer) is just fine. And I am not looking for speculation, I would like to hear from those that have put this into practice and their results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 Get your lift done, then use the link lengths that position the sway bar arms ~20* above horizontal. The Ford F350 rear sway bar links (MOOG K80035) were the right length for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 Longer links as in Hornbrod's photo are the best answer. Depending on their cost, if you're on a budget shock stud extenders might do the job for you. They should run about $15 for a pair. Jst find a set with the same thread as the sway bar links. IIRC, these provide about 1-1/2" of extension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 I have a pair of first-gen RE sway bar disco links, sitting in a box of parts. Missing one of the wire lock pins. Used them for ~2"-4" lift. If interested, PM me and hopefully we can make a deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopper35nj Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 Thanks Crash but I am looking for factory style links. Thanks you for the suggestion Eagle, I thought about making these out of a coupling nut and some grade 8 but it looks like an other week point. Hornbrod. how much lift do you have? I'm guessing at least 3". I see you have the relocation mounts for the sway bar that would move the SB down an inch and out an other inch, so do the links need that so as not to interfere with other suspension parts? Do you recall what years that they are from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 Hornbrod. how much lift do you have? I'm guessing at least 3". ~3" I see you have the relocation mounts for the sway bar that would move the SB down an inch and out an other inch, so do the links need that so as not to interfere with other suspension parts? Yes, provides better clearance from the coils or the Pitman arm. Also restores the sway bar geometry back to OEM specs on a 3" or below lifted XJ/MJ. Do you recall what years that they are from? http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k80035 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 I just did an approximate 2" lift and put in new stock length links which looked to work fine. Now you guys have me rethinking everything. I guess I am effectively pulling the SB down instead of pushing it up? I seem to recall that I had quite a bit of thread sticking up above the SB so maybe I can stack some spacers under the lower bushing, although it sounds like that probably won't be enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 Longer links as in Hornbrod's photo are the best answer. Depending on their cost, if you're on a budget shock stud extenders might do the job for you. They should run about $15 for a pair. Jst find a set with the same thread as the sway bar links. IIRC, these provide about 1-1/2" of extension. This what I did works fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenJK890 Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 I'm putting a 3 inch lift on my 88 comanche. Anyone know where I can find sb and links? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 6 minutes ago, RenJK890 said: I'm putting a 3 inch lift on my 88 comanche. Anyone know where I can find sb and links? Don't you already have a sway bar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenJK890 Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 5 minutes ago, Eagle said: Don't you already have a sway bar? It autocorrected to "and" I meant end. Sorry about that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 So you just need links? See Hornbrod's post about the Ford links, above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 My comments arent related to the original post, but I saw where Hornbrod has the sway bar drop brackets. I never knew these existed. Ive been needing some of these for my truck but have had to do without. I unsucessfully tried to make some on my own that were just blocks using longer bolts to bring the bar down, but this created other problems. I didnt realize about the angle of the unibody at that point and that any brackets would have to take that into account. On an 87 4 cyl model, the sway bar is right on the bottom of the radiator. Ive been worried about it hitting and breaking the plastic tank on the bottom, even with longer adjustable sway bar links. Ive since searched them and found Rubicon Express brackets on Amazon and will be orering a set. Though these ones are different than what Hornbrod is using. The ones Ive seen like his are advertised for the rear of a JK. Anyways, Thank you guys for enlightening me and unknowingly solving my problem! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 In the past I've built adjustable quick disconnect links using rod ends and all-thread. Worked great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeepman73 Posted June 13, 2022 Share Posted June 13, 2022 Unfortunately those moog part numbers have changed...it comes up as a shock absorber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75sv1 Posted June 13, 2022 Share Posted June 13, 2022 11 hours ago, Jeepman73 said: Unfortunately those moog part numbers have changed...it comes up as a shock absorber. I put the number search in EBay. Listed more than a few. Also, could check as to what Ford Truck PN's, it's for other manufactures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75sv1 Posted June 13, 2022 Share Posted June 13, 2022 Condition: New Placement on Vehicle: Rear Other Part Number: FK80035, 265-1457, RK80035, 95069, 45G0248, 18280 Interchange Part Number: MK80035, 2700-95069, FO-L702, 18446, GK80035 Part Brand: NAPA Manufacturer Part #: 265-1457 Stock #: AA0069 Bin Location: M30 Interchange Part #: 599.FD8797 Brand: MOOG Type: Suspension, Springs and Related Components Manufacturer Part Number: K80035 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NHMJXJ Posted June 17, 2023 Share Posted June 17, 2023 I need to replace these bushings. Is the sway bar under load, or can I just take the nuts off? Also, should it be on jacks or sitting on the ground? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjake Posted June 18, 2023 Share Posted June 18, 2023 1 hour ago, NHMJXJ said: I need to replace these bushings. Is the sway bar under load, or can I just take the nuts off? Also, should it be on jacks or sitting on the ground? As long as your parked on flat ground it shouldn’t be under load, the swaybar only goes under load when on uneven surfaces, so if you want to jack if you you’ll have to do so from the middle of the axle and ensure it’s level, on my xj I have quick connects and as long as the ground is somewhat flat they go on and off no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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