DirtyComanche Posted June 27, 2007 Author Share Posted June 27, 2007 Yeah, timing for propane is more advanced. They sell 'propane curve' internals for many distributors. But really it's just advanced a couple degrees more at base, and the curve is a bit steeper. There's no set rule for it, you pretty much have to play with it until it works well. If you actually bring the compression ratio up to ideal, it's pretty much the same as if you were running gas. The heating system is simple. It runs liquid from the tank to the regulator. The regulator is actually a vapourizer too, and has an element in it to pipe coolant through it. It works fine as long as the coolant is warm enough at startup, or it might ice up. If it is really cold you have to start it and get it to idle, and leave it there until the coolant is hot enough. And somewhere around -45 you're flat out @#$%ed. Unless you know a few tricks. Anyways, I'm just going to have to tee into a couple hoses. I'll get you somne pics of the components if I remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 WE use propane powered fork trucks at work, and I know what you mean by you have to let them warm up.... I need to do lots more research so I can junk yard find the parts I need to save a few bucks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 27, 2007 Author Share Posted June 27, 2007 There's not much avaliable as far as parts selection. Typically for a mixer the Impco 425 is the best bet for a used dealio. The OHG 450s have an issue as they age, unless you want to do a bunch of work on them. There's the Impco 300A for dual fuel use, and it's kinda weird. And 225s and smaller versions, which aren't much good but for very small enignes. All the mixers have the make/model stamped on them in large obvious lettering. Most guys run impco model E regulators. They're pretty much the best bet. Almost all the other models are ment for light duty use or small engine applications. And for the lock-off valve, there's pretty much the choice between a vacuum or electric one. Either works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 lock off valve... explain more about this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 27, 2007 Author Share Posted June 27, 2007 It just shuts off the flow of vapourized propane to the mixer. Otherwise there is the potential that the entire tank of propane will slowly bleed into the intake manifold. The vacuum ones open when the engine is pulling a vacuum. And the electric ones can just be put on a toggle switch. Typically the electric ones are used for dual fuel and the vacuum ones for straight propane. Personally I see nothing wrong with having one more toggle switch that needs to be thrown to start the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 28, 2007 Author Share Posted June 28, 2007 Got rid of this crap. Well, I might need to remove some of it for re-use. I want this thing to run with only 3 or 4 wires (not including plugs). I think I can pull it off. Image Not Found And I'll budget a couple wires for lighting. I guess. I think I'll install a battery isolator too. Might as well. I dropped the tank. What a PITA if you're alone. Image Not Found Especially because it is almost right full. I guess I'll take it to school and use it to run our 320ci 4cyl. Hopefully it can run on 87... No tank. Might ditch the decking too. Image Not Found Or maybe the whole deck? Engine is pretty naked now. Not done yet, but close... Image Not Found I gotta change that disty out. Tomorrow, I guess. Image Not Found Interior is mostly done. Heater core is still in place. Image Not Found They don't make them easy to remove. I think I should just man up and order a header for this thing too. Since the one I had is cracked to rat-$#!&. And I realized that I gave all my intake mounting bolts to my friend, along with a pile of the EFI junk. Ohwell, at least I know where they went. And Pat, I forgot to take pics of the propane jazz. I'll remember tomorrow, hopefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Aren't 4.0 manifolds weldable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 28, 2007 Author Share Posted June 28, 2007 Aren't 4.0 manifolds weldable? Yeah. I should just sandblast the joint and weld it back up. The propane is just going to kill it anyways. I'll wait and see if I can swap an HO head onto it at some point, and buy a header for that if it works. Maybe. The stock HO ones are actually really good. The renix ones leave a bit to be desired. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 NIce.... I can t wait to see this thing finished.. maybe motivat me some more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 1, 2007 Author Share Posted July 1, 2007 Here's the propane parts. Lock-off valve. Liquid propane from the tank is fed through it. This one is vacuum triggered (see the hose?), but electric ones are common to. I couldn't find the electric one. An impco one will say 'Imcpo' and give a part number on the back. I don't know about any other models. Image Not Found Regulator/vapourizer. Unregulated liquid propane from the lock-off is fed to here via hose. It is vapourized by an element that coolant is pumped through and regulated at a steady low pressure (1psi or something). Image Not Found That's an Impco model E. If you've got a rag to wipe the dirt off it's pretty easy to tell. They made the 'Model E' label plenty big. There's other models, but the 'E' is ment for larger engines. Mixer. Just like a carb. They come with different base plates and can be had in different sizes. Imcp 425. Image Not Found Image Not Found They're labelled really clearly. The 425 is the most common one. But a guy might find an OHG 450, I forget how easily they're identified. In a dual fuel application an Imcpo 300A is the most common, and they're labelled just like the 425. Hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88swampedmj Posted July 1, 2007 Share Posted July 1, 2007 lookin good man, who needs interior anyways eh? i find its easier to clean and actually cooler looking without it haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted July 1, 2007 Share Posted July 1, 2007 What will you install instead of decking? I just now noticed you said you might ditch it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 1, 2007 Author Share Posted July 1, 2007 Expanded steel, maybe. Might save a few pounds. Or I might drop the whole deck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 3, 2007 Author Share Posted July 3, 2007 This is an update to tell you I suck. I welded my exhaust back up. It looks like crap. One thing I hate about stick welding is I really lose my touch after I don't do it for a while. Ohwell, it just has to hold. No, I didn't take a picture because it looks so bad. Then I tackled my distributor problem.... Image Not Found Theoretically that HEI unit out of a chevy will fit. However, it has the wrong gear on it (knew that). I pulled the gear off the stocker to put it on that one, and guess what? Not the same sized shaft. Whatever, I know a later AMC V8 gear will work. It's on its way. I also must have wrecked that disty since I pulled it. It no longer spins correctly. So I'll try cleaning it up, but might have to go back to the junkyard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 5, 2007 Author Share Posted July 5, 2007 I need parts! GAHHHHHHHHHH. Nothing ever shows up on time. Oh, and I decided to ditch the speedometer. Who cares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 5, 2007 Author Share Posted July 5, 2007 Actually, it turns out there is a package for summit for me. It's my intake manifold... But, I gambled and lost. The 4.0 and 258 head design was NOT the same regarding the port placement. I should have gone and bought two intake gaskets to see for myself sometime BEFORE I ordered this thing. The difference was that the 258 ports are even LOWER than the 4.0 renix ones. I couldn't have believed that possible, but they are. Now, I think I can bolt the intake up in the correct position, providing that I change a few slight things. I'd have to either cut off the alignment nubs on the head, or cut the holes for them in the intake into slots. I don't know if this will cause the manifold to not seat correctly or anything of that nature. Or perhaps it will seat, but wiggle loose at some point? The intake is drilled for the P/S brackets, so that actually wasn't a problem. But if I do move it up, it may be. However, I think I can make some room in the mounts and deal with it... Not sure. I dunno. I gotta make this work. It's too late to go back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 I wouldnt modify anything on the intake... you can always send that back. Now since you have your 4.0 intake off why not have it modded to work with the Pane... just an idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 5, 2007 Author Share Posted July 5, 2007 I wouldnt modify anything on the intake... you can always send that back. Now since you have your 4.0 intake off why not have it modded to work with the Pane... just an idea While it is possible, it would be way too much work. I had another renix intake which I used to check the feasability and basically it wasn't. The 4bbl pattern is WAY too big, unless you want to cut the entire middle area out of it and weld a new one in. Given I only have a stick welder (I want a mig, buuuut), I'd have to get it welded by somebody else. That costs $$$. I think I'm going to cut the dowels off the head and try. If not I might look into putting an AMC 258 head on a 4.0 block. God damnit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 8, 2007 Author Share Posted July 8, 2007 I'll start this off by saying that today was of 'mixed' success. I sold my cherokee. Which is a good. I got not quite what I wanted, but close enough. And it is gone. I hope the kid who bought it doesn't kill himself with it though. I made him aware of what he should know about it, as to if he follows my advice or not is another matter. I mocked up my tank location and seriously debated going to a different tank setup. This one is bloody large. Really bloody large. I'm still not sure, but I managed to get it sitting in a manner that I think will be acceptable. First location: Image Not Found Way too high. It's a lot of weight to put up there. And I need space for the rad too. Image Not Found It'll also cause issues trying to put an X in the cage there. So, definatly not good. Image Not Found Dunno why I took that pic. Must have been a good reason. Another success (mostly) was I went to work on gettign the Offy mounted up. Image Not Found Mocking up for port matching. Image Not Found I had to use fender washers under the cone washers to have as much engagement on the manifold bolts as I'd like. These ones needed to be notched to fit the header. Image Not Found For the top centre ones I just needed to notch the cone washer a bit. Image Not Found The lowers ones just needed a fender washer. Mixer going on: Image Not Found I'm still trying to figure out the throttle. Apparently I need linkage brackets from a YJ. Other than YJs didn't come with the linkage brackets that were described in the instructions. I'm kinda going WTF on that one. I might be able to run a more generic throttle cable setup. Not sure yet. There's also a problem in that I couldn't align the P/S pump brackets with the tapped holes in the intake. I actually had to shave a bunch off the back of the bracket to get it to fit even. I'm not sure if only having it bolted to the water pump is wise? I think I'll put a belt on it and get it fired up and if it shakes too bade I'll figure out something. I can always drill/tap the intake. And here's how I finially placed the tank. Image Not Found It's way better. I just need to work on some brackets for the straps that hold it down. And it'll have enough clearance for an X now. If I use this tank or not is still up in the air. I'll need to clean it a bit and paint it if I do. I'm also considering mounting my radiator above the tank. But horizontally. I don't know if that would be legal. Or if it would work? I don't know about that either... But I want it somewhere where it won't get bashed by $#!&. If it's behind the tank it'll get bashed, I think. Unless I actually start securing stuff to my bed better... As to of what makes me consider this to be mixed success... Well, I need a dist. drive gear from an 81+ AMC 360. I can buy one new for $140 (wow, I love the stealer). Or I can get the junkyard one for $5. The problem was I went there but lacked the tools to pull it... So I gotta go back tuesday. But, more annoyingly, I think the parts stores hate me and jsut want me to @#$% off and never come back. I order in some gauges, and I ask specifically 'are these electric?' and was assured they are. Now I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge, and a thermocouple style temp gauge. Who runs a mechanical oil pressure gauge? I'm SURE AS HELL NOT. So, maybe I f'd up by not asking more questions on that one, seeing as I doubt electric gauges are entirely universal. And the temp gauge won't fit anywhere in the head, unless I drill some major holes. I also ordered an intake/exhaust gasket on thursday. I was assured it would be in friday morning. I went to pick it up today (saturday) and it was not to be found. But it had come. I told the guy I'd be back in half an hour and to look for it... I come back and he's sitting on his @$$ not doing @#$% all. Guess what? Look after your customers or they WON'T come back. So I went to a wholesaler instead and got one... I also asked more than one person about the topic of a nightswitch (battery isolater). Nobody understood me. Even after I described in detail what I wanted. Until finially it clicked with somebody. And they told me that they don't sell them. Guess what? I know they do - I went in with somebody when they bought one. I can't wire the truck without one (well, I can, but find that it complicates life as the switch location determines other things.) So, I guess I'll go to an electrical supplier now. Unless I can get that P/N off the other switch. Anywho... Tomorrow I'll go pick up the bender/dies. Monday I might jsut go buy a MIG. Or I'll put it off a bit. Then maybe I can make some progress and feel a little better about this thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockhardzj Posted July 8, 2007 Share Posted July 8, 2007 Image Not Found I'm still trying to figure out the throttle. Apparently I need linkage brackets from a YJ. Other than YJs didn't come with the linkage brackets that were described in the instructions. I'm kinda going WTF on that one. I might be able to run a more generic throttle cable setup. Not sure yet. try the newer style linkage like from a late 90's model XJ or ZJ, even a WJ. just adjust where the cable routes around, and if it doesnt pull on the top, then put it on the bottom. Easier to explain if I was there, I know, but hopefully you understand what I'm getting at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 8, 2007 Author Share Posted July 8, 2007 I don't know if I can track down something that new very easily. Although, there is a 4oh TJ in the yard... The intake actually comes with a short cable and brackets to route it around the carb/mixer. The intention then being that you'd bolt on that see-saw bracket like the early 4ohs use. Other than the manifold isn't drilled for the 4of style bracket. Apparently for an 84-87 YJ style one. Whatever that is. I might call these guys and see if they know anything about their own products. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockhardzj Posted July 8, 2007 Share Posted July 8, 2007 I hate that see-saw setup. more things to go wrong. I might have a throttle cable laying around off a late model XJ that I won't use.I think even the 93-96 XJ's have the same cable setup as the 97+. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 8, 2007 Author Share Posted July 8, 2007 If the 93+ is like that, I have a decent shot. There is an early ZJ and a couple Hoho XJs in that yard. I gotta go back there and get my dist gear anyways, so I might as well grab some other $#!&. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted July 11, 2007 Author Share Posted July 11, 2007 I hate that see-saw setup. more things to go wrong. I might have a throttle cable laying around off a late model XJ that I won't use.I think even the 93-96 XJ's have the same cable setup as the 97+. Good call on getting me to look under the hood of ZJs. Those throttle cables are about 2 feet longer than a MJ one. I cut it down to size and stuck a bracket on it (not perfect yet) and gave the throttle a test. I get WOT nicely, and it closes up once you get off it. More updates to come. If I do more work on it today (its freaking hot...). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockhardzj Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 Good call on getting me to look under the hood of ZJs.I said XJ's, but your welcome. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now