Knucklehead97 Posted June 16, 2015 Author Share Posted June 16, 2015 From searching more MR gasket #914 works and is about half the price of the ARP. What about pressure plate bolts? Can they be replaced by regular hardware store bolts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 Depending on the clutch kit, some come with new pressure plate hardware. If not, then grade 8 (or 10.9 metric) bolts from the hardware store of the same specs will work perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 17, 2015 Author Share Posted June 17, 2015 Just ordered 175$ worth of parts from Partsgeek! Flywheel and clutch kit is on the way. The clutch change has officially become real! And I came to a realization when I walked out the door today... My next door neighbor has a massive concrete floored and enclosed garage and I do the guy favors quite often. He might let me use it for a weekend! Lets hope so! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 17, 2015 Author Share Posted June 17, 2015 Oh and lastly whats the chances of my exhaust manifold bolts snapping when I'm trying to remove them during this? Going to spray everything down with PB blaster but them bolts seem rusty lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 Soak the heck out of them for a few days. You should be able to just take those two flange/socket bolts off the lower manifold to the exhaust. When it comes time to remove them, if you can get a MAP or propane torch up there and heat the heck out of them, then use an impact gun (if you have one) and that should prevent breaking them. Otherwise, soak em, heat em, and use a wrench and as long as you are careful you should be ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche County Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 When you do the clutch, have a couple cans of brake cleaner on hand and drench the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel real good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 18, 2015 Author Share Posted June 18, 2015 Added brake cleaner to the list! Why should I drench them, though? And are these bolts the right flywheel bolt size? I was comparing them to the ARP and the ArP said the length was .890" while these say they're 1". I read somewhere they work but I'm not 100% sure on it. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=AJuCVee9KYP2-QGe9IzIBg&url=http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MRG0/914.oap%3Fyear%3D1991%26make%3DPontiac%26model%3DFirebird%26vi%3D1251762%26pt%3D2272P%26ppt%3DC0362&ved=0CDEQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNFSc-nD3poAaUzUs9QbPPlVhd2Rlg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 Added brake cleaner to the list! Why should I drench them, though? And are these bolts the right flywheel bolt size? I was comparing them to the ARP and the ArP said the length was .890" while these say they're 1". I read somewhere they work but I'm not 100% sure on it. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=AJuCVee9KYP2-QGe9IzIBg&url=http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MRG0/914.oap%3Fyear%3D1991%26make%3DPontiac%26model%3DFirebird%26vi%3D1251762%26pt%3D2272P%26ppt%3DC0362&ved=0CDEQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNFSc-nD3poAaUzUs9QbPPlVhd2Rlg MrGasket is bottom of the barrel quality.......that said, they should be fine. I have no idea why you are hung up on the bolt though? The fly wheel bolts are taking shear, not necessarily clamping forces. Unless they are damaged, the original bolts will be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 18, 2015 Author Share Posted June 18, 2015 I'll take your word for it, then. Saves me 20-30$. I've hears mixed opinions of whether or not to change the bolts but I will check them when I remove it just to be sure. The only reason I went ahead and ordered the flywheel is because while I've got the tranny out I figured I would just go ahead and change it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 The brake cleaner is to remove the oil coated on said parts to prevent them from corroding while they sit on the shelf. It helps give you a good oil free clean surface for the clutch disk to help break in and seat on. Pretty much the same reason you use brake parts cleaner on your rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 I understand that now, then. Upon adding the first coat of PB blaster to all the bolts, I have gotten a few more questions. 1, only the axle side of my driveshafts have the four bolts on them to disconnect them. Do they just slide out of the transfer case? And 2, should I put the jackstands underneath the frame rails or the axles to get the truck up some? The obvious choice is the frame rails, I know. But with jackstands under it I fear how little wiggle room I'm going to have under there lol. And lastly how do the transmission and transfer case breather lines connect? Do I just pull them off and then slip them back on when I'm done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 You can put the jack stands under the axles. They will not be in the way for dropping the trans. The shafts will slide right out of the tcase. The breather lines just pull off, unless someone put a clamp on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 I was only worried about the jackstands getting in the way if I put them under the framerails. Should have specified lol. But thanks, that was exactly what I needed to know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 You'll be fine. Do it once and you'll be an old pro. Really, it's not that difficult at all. Just take your time centering the clutch plate, the rest is just a matter of going through the motions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 I'm figuring once I get started on it it will just flow steady and won't be nearly as bad as I'm expecting. Are the transmission mounts the same for all transmissions on the MJ? Going to go ahead and change it while I have the crossmember off the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertmike Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 I always have this fear of the truck falling off the jackstands for some reason, never happened though. Anyway my truck has a 4 1/2 inch lift. I use 4 pcs of 4x12 lumber , one under each wheel and have plenty of roll around room. Done this more than once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 I have the EXACT same fear. Which is why I will probably not only have 2 jackstands under each axle but will also stack wood up so if by some crazy farfetched chance the jackstands fail, the wood will catch it. But I will still have the tires on... so at least the entire truck wouldn't fall straight to the ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertmike Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Thanks for the backup "knucklehead97". I know were a little off topic but the worst one is when you have to pull the complete front axle and you have the jackstands maxed out under the doors. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 My fear is because I was working on my moms FWD Sentra and I forgot that it didn't have the engine keeping the rear tires held with the shifter in "park" so I was jacking it up and right as I went to put a stand under it the tires rolled and about got my arm. Needless to say, I double check EVERY thing now. But back on topic, no one know if the tranny mounts are all the same? Rockauto has the same ones in both the manual and auto transmission sections, so I'm pretty sure they are. Just wanted to double check! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 Well with further research I found that the AX-15 and AW4 use the same mount. The BA10/5, though, uses a completely different mount which costs about 100$. That, is not in my budget right now lol. Anyone ever made an AX-15 mount work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 Already pulled the driveshafts, tailpipe, and T-case skid. When i pulled the rear driveshaft the tcase start dribbling fluid and I'm sure it will dribble more when I start jacking the truck up. What type of fluid should I grab to just top off the Tcase when I get done with the clutch? Planned to change the fluid in it and the tranny soon, anyways. Would now be a good time? And I'm guessing it would be a good idea to grease all of these driveshaft grease fittings while I've got them easily accessible? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Fluid coming out of the tcase is normal. Don't worry. You should drain the fluids from both the trans and tcase before dropping them. This will "lighten" the loan and reduce the chance of spills. The NP231 takes ATF. I don't the quantity, though. Any maintenance you can perform "while I have it off" is a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 The NP231 supposedly takes about 2 quarts. I have never been able to get more than about 1.5 into mine before it starts flowing out of the fill hole. As for the trans mount question you had. It may be possible to use the AX mounts, but the BA10/5 mount is so much different from the AX in the way it bolts up that you would probably be in for some time consuming fabrication, and even then it may not work. If the mount isn't bad on the transmission, then I would just leave it be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 http://m.ebay.com/itm/381282411049?nav=SEARCH You can try and message the seller for a best offer I got mine under $40 shipped for my swap.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 ^I bought that same bracket brand new for $65 from an online chrysler parts warehouse. From what I can tell though, he is not swapping an AX-15 into his truck, which means that bracket isn't necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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