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Flywheel questions


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I rectently had the internal slave cylinder go out on my truck. so i decided to just go ahead and buy a whole clutch kit while i had it apart. should i go ahead and change the flywheel while i have it apart? the fly wheel doesnt have any marks on it and the clutch wasnt worn and didnt chatter. what should i do?

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If it glazed badly....take it NAPA and have them turn it for you.

Please do NOT have a 4.0L flywheel turned. The factory service manual very specifically tells us NOT to turn the flywheel. It's not easy to see, but it's not flat, and turning it often results in clutch problems after the replacement.

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I turned my Renix 4.0 Flywheel, and the only problem I have is if I'm at a stand still its a little hard to get into gear, first in particular. If I coast and shift into 1st at say 2-4mph then its easy as cake. Imagine when I switch over to the 98 I'll either use the 98 flywheel or just buy a new one.

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Do mean to give bad advise........but.........

 

I keep reading that and I keep reading that folks are doing it anyway and have yet to read an- oh my god what have I done- post.

A friend from NAXJA did have one of those "OMG what have I done" cases.

 

FSM (2000, since the MJ manual is from 1986 and doesn't include the 4.0L engine or clutch):

 

Flywheel machining is not recommended. The flywheel surface is manufactured with a unique contour that would be negated by machining.

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I have been hearing this statement for years and having the flywheel machined is not as bad as suggested and quite frankly I think it was just a way to sell more parts for a clutch job...

 

I have done hundreds of clutch jobs and have had the flywheels machined on most with ZERO failures...

If its clean and not burnt up then clean it and re-install it if its burnt then machine it or buy a new one...

 

For the cost of machine work Id say machine it either way while its apart...

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My favorite are the instructions on how to install a new ring gear.  Clutch problems are generally clutch plate worn out problems.  Unless the flywheel and\or pressure plate show flutter pattern you shouldn't have to touch either (except maybe some cleaning).  Then I would buy new LUK stuff and forget the machining.  I find LUK is the only one that knows the correct slave line shapes and fittings and the only one with proper clutch plate impregnation for easy break-in.  Why anything is machined anymore is beyond me.  Brake drums, brake disks, flywheels, brake cylinders, yet no one will get a fuel injector rebuilt.  It's just a waste.

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