teamsmith Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 My dad and I both agree that we've sunk too much time and money into this truck to give up on it. After 9 months of steady progress, I finally let my dad take it work today to show his friends. On his way home, a minor explosion occured under the hood, resulting in this sizeable hole in the block. Oil and coolant leaked all over the road. Funny thing is that the engine never died, never ticked, knocked, or even showed a high temperature. We towed it back to my house tonight. The question is, do we spend $4k on a Jasper reman, troll some junkyards, maybe get something that's been rebuilt? Should we go HO since we're replacing it anyway? What has been your experiences? If I decide doing the HO swap makes sense, can I take an engine out of a wrangler as well as a Cherokee? Are later years swappable? Here's some pics of the truck; It had been wrecked, 184k miles, sat in a field for 11 years but we got the frame straightened, replaced panels, painted it and breathed life back into it. I was about to put a mild 1" lift on it but that has been put on hold, perhaps indefinitely. I do hate putting good money after bad, but we're too sentimnetal (it was my grandad's truck before he passed) to let it go. I realize this might need to be in Project MJ's but I am seeking techincal advice on an engine replacement and wanting to add context. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattwheels Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 Thats a Really nice Comanche I must say! The Cheapest option would be to find a low mile used engine, preferably one you can listen to run. if you're looking at spending that kind of money on a Rebuilt I'd almost just look into a Golen stroker motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 Thats a Really nice Comanche I must say! The Cheapest option would be to find a low mile used engine, preferably one you can listen to run. if you're looking at spending that kind of money on a Rebuilt I'd almost just look into a Golen stroker motor. Thanks. I am proud of how it turned out. My uncle is a painter so we did well to leverage his ability. It looks better after it's been washed and with better light. So, if I go the route of a used engine, can I use any Jeep 4.0? does it have to be from an MJ/XJ, does anything change with the '97+ that would make the engine incompatible? I would also be open to a stroker. I see that Titan has the 4.6 for $2800 but doesn't appear to be turnkey. I'd rather it have the manifold, oil pump/pan, etc. ready to go in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 You can find one for $1400, here is an example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Remanufactured-4-0-242-Jeep-Engine-1991-1995-Cherokee-/300765487565?fits=Make%3AJeep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 Thanks. Yes, I will plan to contact Titan over the weekend. If I decide to get a used motor, it looks like I can get one out of any XJ. Can I use one out of a TJ or a WJ? i assume the intake manifolds would be different but the engines themselves are the same, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 There were different block mounting points on some of the 4.0 blocks that make them not a bolt in swap. I think the WJ was different. Not sure about the ZJ or the TJ. Someone else who knows better should chime in. If you go to HO swap I would find a complete XJ donor for cheap. A wrecked one of a blowed IP one. Then you will have ALL that you need for the swap. Then you can scrap or part out the rest yo recoup some money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 ^^ This is the way to go. 91 and up. Junk the Renix stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 So what you're saying is that I can't just buy a rebuilt titan because I won't have the wiring harnesses, etc. needed to plug into the renix system. Edit: ok so your saying get the donor for the wiring etc. that will allow me to swap in a rebuilt ho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 I'm saying the same thing as dasbulliwagen. Donor wrecked OBD1 or 2 XJ, YJ, etc. for the HO conversion, and the engine you can afford. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 So, if I go the route of a used engine, can I use any Jeep 4.0? does it have to be from an MJ/XJ, does anything change with the '97+ that would make the engine incompatible? Per some of Cruisers info: XJ Cherokee and ZJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange. 1997-1999 4.0L TJ Wrangler blocks will interchange in XJ/MJ/ZJ and visa-versa. XJ/MJ/ZJ blocks and 2000+ TJ/WJ blocks do not interchange without significant modifications. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnj92131 Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 Be Very careful thinking about a Titan motor, stroker or otherwise. Their reputation on the Jeepstrokers forum is not good! Golan has a good reputation, from what I have read. HESCO is good, but expensive! As others have said, the cheapest route is a running donor XJ. I would say between 1991 and 1996 (OBD1). With the donor you should get everything you need to do the H.O. conversion and do it at your pace. If you want to look at a stroker you may have some trouble locating a good used, cheap 258 crank. Scat has a new 258 crank that can be purchased for about $400. Your best source of stroker information is www.jeepstrokers.com Very nice looking truck. With all the work you, Dad, and uncle have put in it, I am sure you will make good choices on the engine fixes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 DO NOT buy an ATK reman engine (sold by Advance, Auto Zone, NAPA, etc)!!! They are remanned in Monterrey, Mexico and are absolute junk! I put an ATK engine in Maura and it lasted 282 miles before it started puking up cam bearings. Never again!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 We got a better look at the engine in the light of day. It's got a crack all along the back of the casing in addiiton to that nice hole on the side. The bell housing also has a hole in it, as if the clutch plate went. Surprisingly, the truck still started and we were able to drive it onto the trailer today, drive it off, and drive it into the garage. It was making some nice percussion but still drove strong (for the 10 feet to get it inside). Thank you all for your advice on engine swaps, etc. . I have some feelers out at the local yards and some local guys who do a lot of work with jeeps who may be able to help me with a donor for a swap. The ideal solution would be finding a low mileage '94-'98 5sp so I can rob the AX-15 and bell housing as well as the engine and HO harness. I do not want to spend $4k on an engine, my question would have been better phrased as "Do I need to spend $4k (such as a Jasper) to get a good, reliable rebuild?" Since I'm considering a used engine with questionable history, my quality expectations should be low but it's really that I'm just trying to be cheap. The question is, "how cheap can I be?" I will checkout the jeepstrokers.With Titan's low rep on the strokers, I wonder what the word is on their regular, non stroker, rebuilds? A stroker would be nice but I think the stock motor makes plenty of power for my needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 I've heard good things about Titans build your own kit for the stroker, but I can say this gotta 4.3 reman from them for brothers s-10 100k later still runs strong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche County Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Look up Copart.com or your nearest insurance auction. Check out their listings for wrecked XJs, you might luck out and find one that's been hit in the side or simply has minor damage. You can buy an entire XJ for under a grand. Look for listings that say "Run and Drive" in the description. Depending on your distance from the nearest auction, the shipping could be cheap, or pick it up if you have a trailer. Or go the JY route, if its not wrecked, its usually an engine or trans problem that landed them there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 I've heard good things about Titans build your own kit for the stroker, but I can say this gotta 4.3 reman from them for brothers s-10 100k later still runs strong. Nash, I got a little lost in your post. Are you saying your brother has an S-10 4.3 stroker from Titan that has lasted 100k miles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/pts/4840775996.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/pts/4840775996.htmlThanks. I saw that last night and left a message this morning. That might be the ticket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 No sir, he has a stock reman 4.3 that has lasted 102k he corrected me! Purchased it when he lived in Orlando area years back no complaints. Just letting you know they do build good engines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/pts/4840775996.html I talked for a while with this guy. He bought it from a friend (who had recently had the heads rebuilt) with the intent of putting into a carb'd Wrangler. He didn't realize all the components he'd need to swap out to make it work. It had 204k miles when pulled, was in a RHD mail Cherokee. No compression test was performed, only said that it 'sounded good and strong' before it was pulled. He's since replaced all seals and gaskets, added oil and plugs. He says I need to bring him a harmonic balancer to install before it can be put in a truck. I'm planning to go check it out today, and picking up an engine hoist at harbour freight on my way. I realize there is a risk with the wear on the bearings, etc. but I look at it this way: My blown engine with a hole in the casting will not be accepted as a core, so essentially $350 of the $600 could be viewed as going towards the core charge of a rebuild. Now I need to dig into the write ups on here for putting an HO in my renix machine. Cruiser's tips makes it sound fairly straightforward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 If you have a pull-a-part nearby it might be worth walking around to see what they have. I saw a 134K miles '95 or '96 that had been hit in the back. Any engine from the jy is a bit of a gamble but, had I needed a motor at the time, I would have grabbed it. If nothing else you can pull a good, rebuildable core. I think LKQ charges $300 or so for one. We pulled a good donor for OneOverZero out of an XJ and he had it rebuilt locally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 Call me impetuous but I bought the engine off the Craigslist guy today. I had to make a stop at HF to pickup a shop crane, luckily they were having a big presidents day sale. The fact that it's basically ready to go in with little work sold me. Even if it starts knocking and needs a rebuild, at least I'll have something that can be rebuilt (unless it has a hole blown in it as well). I still need to dig into the various posts on adapting the renix harness, etc.and I'm sure I'll have questions before I get started. I swear it feels like I'm building a truck from parts. It is fun though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share Posted March 5, 2015 Hello, I posted questions for doing a swap in the Swap Thread in the DIY section, linked below, but Pete suggested I post it here to get a better response. http://comancheclub.com/topic/7235-put-an-obd1-91-95-ho-40l-into-a-40l-renix-87-90-jeep/?p=472066 Hello, I have a few questions for this swap which I am about to undertake. I've been through the write ups here, Naxja, Off-road, FSM, etc. and still have a few loose ends to tie up. I'm reusing all Renix wiring, intake, and exhaust manifold on a '98 engine. -Cruiser54 referenced a temp sensor that needs to be extended to screw into the thermostat housing. ----Is this just for the electric fan? Since my fan is wired to a switch, do I even need to worry about this or does it do something else? -The above article references replacing accelerator cable and transmission cable. -----Since this is a manual transmission, do I need either/both of those? -I watched a good video on youtube that went through the steps of removing the engine with an automatic transmission and showed the removal of a shield behind the flexplate/fly wheel/converter and he spoke to removing bolts that are locktited on to the back of engine. I presume he was able to turn the engine by hand to access all four but it wasn't shown. -----Will this be required for my manual transmission or does the engine just come free from the tranny after removing bell housing bolts? -----To simplify the question, what bolts are required to set the engine free? I know about the motor mounts and bell housing bolts. What else? -I read a comment from someone that recommended dropping the tranny cross member and lower the transmission to access the E12 bolts. I have an E12 socket, two extensions, and two universal joints with springs surrounding them per suggestions from this post. ----What is the best way to get at the E12? Should I just go and get a wrench like Don referenced in a previous post and access it from the engine bay? thank you all in advance for your advice. I am feeling pretty overwhelmed at this point but hopefully once I'm able to get started things will start making sense. -Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 I would pull it all trans too just makes everything easier IMO good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Drop the tail shaft on the trans and you can get to the top bolts. Impacts are your friend. I'll be swapping mine soon and I will drop the trans first, much easier when alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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