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Need to Replace Ball Joints.


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I need to replace both the upper and lower ball joints on a 92 4wd. It failed inspection and I had noticed it was developing a bad wobble.

 

I've watched a video and I'm sure it will be lots of fun trying to break lose 22 year old bolts.

 

Would like some input.

 

1) Any brand of ball joints better than another. I have NAPA, Advance Auto, Autozone and even a new O'Reilly's in the area and there's always rock auto. 

 

2) Any odd ball size sockets wrenched etc needed that I should get before I start the job and find I'm missing something?

 

3) Any specialty tools needed?

 

4) Any secrets or methods I should know before I start?

 

Thanks for your input.

 

Gavin

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Get Spicer ball joints. Relatively inexpensive and they are what came on your truck originally.

 

You will need a Ball Joint press. My Harbor Freight press has done ball joints on 4 Jeeps and a 2500 Silverado...and is ready for more. I did 2 Jeeps with the standard cups that come with the press and 2 with the pricey Jeep cups. The Jeep specific cups made the job much easier.

 

Have a quality 12 point 13mm socket on hand for the Unit Bearing bolts.

 

Heat and a BFH will make the process easier and quicker.

 

I found these videos helpful

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If you arent able to buy/find the jeep specific cups, you will have to have a small piece of thick steel plate (1/4") to put between the cup and the arm (yoke?)

 

This is another good video series and it also show you how to use the thick steel plate i mentioned.

 

 

 

 

As for brand, you can't go wrong with spicer. That being said i am using XRF ball joints and I have nothing bad to report . . . . . yet. can't say how they compare price wise, but i am pretty sure they were only slightly less expensive than spicer.

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I have not replaced mine and do not know how old they are. I grease the upper ball joints but the lower ball joints are not greasable. Do they make the lower ball joint with a fitting?

I know Moog sells a lower joint with a fitting. Only catch, the fitting would be ripped off by the axle shaft if left in place. I suspect you could install a fitting designed for a needle adapter since they are low profile.
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I know Moog sells a lower joint with a fitting. Only catch, the fitting would be ripped off by the axle shaft if left in place. I suspect you could install a fitting designed for a needle adapter since they are low profile.

 

But you'd need to take the front axle out to get access to the needle fitting. It's easier to just grease it well when you install it, then replace the zerk fitting with the supplied plug.


 

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I know Moog sells a lower joint with a fitting. Only catch, the fitting would be ripped off by the axle shaft if left in place. I suspect you could install a fitting designed for a needle adapter since they are low profile.

 

But you'd need to take the front axle out to get access to the needle fitting. It's easier to just grease it well when you install it, then replace the zerk fitting with the supplied plug.

 

 

I used to Moog brand when I did mine. Installed them and greased them well. But I kept the 90 degree zerk fitting that came with it in my glove box. Whenever I change my oil I unscrew the plug from the lower joint, rotate my axle shaft until I can fit the zerk back in, and regrease them. Takes me 5 minutes and should add quite a bit of life to the joint. Just my 2 cents.

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If you haven't started then i'd recommend start spraying every bolt under there with PB a couple of times a day until you get ready to do it to help loosen up everything. Then I'd also recommend having some anti-sieze on hand for when putting it back together to help avoid the problem in the future.

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  • 8 years later...

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