dinghyboy

Cruiser, What brand lift do you have? Thanks, Gavin

What type of flares do we have on our brake lines? Thanks, Gavin

Thanks to all for the responses. Soaked fittings for a couple of days with PB Blaster, bought sturdier Flare nut wrenches (NAPA) but the secret was using the 19mm Wrench to hold the distribution block to get better pressure on the flare nut while loosening. Was able to get all 6 brake lines to release. On to line replacement. I'm not going to do the brake booster upgrade at this time since I've been procrastinating fixing the brake lines for too long and need the truck back on the road but I'll certainly look into it for the future. Thanks, Gavin

I had a rear brake line rust through and figured now would be a good time to do a load sensing valve delete. I've obtained an XJ distribution block and plan on running a new single hard brake line to the the rear to join into the soft hose. I'm having a hard time getting the brake lines to separate from the distribution block and am hoping someone will have some suggestions. I guess 27 years of heat and corrosion have welded the couplings in place. I am using a good quality flare nut wrench and it is not slipping (yet) but either I'm not strong enough or it's too tight in the area around the distribution block. I know I could just cut the rear lines but don't want to cut the front lines, particularly the one that goes to the passenger side front wheel since it's the hardest to route properly. Any suggestions? Thanks, Gavin

So sorry to hear and know my thoughts and prayers are with you. I remember numerous posts where you could feel the love and pride he had for his family. The forum will miss him. Gavin

I obtained the servo, clock spring, steering wheel switches and brake light switch from the junk yard off a 1999 (verified VIN 10th digit) jeep cherokee and installed them in my 2001 Jeep cherokee. The installation went easily but the cruise control is not working. The on/off button turns on the cruise light on the dash, but I can not set the cruise control by the set button. The resume/accel button does not increase speed. I have made sure the brake lights are operating properly and are not on. I don't think it is a clock spring issue since the horn works and the airbag light goes off. I visually inspected the vacuum lines and they look okay. I put a vacuum pump on the line at the manifold connection. I pumped it up to 20 (inches?) and it bled down to 10 and then held at that point. What do I do next? Does it need to hold more vacuum than that? How do I test the electronics or the servo to see if they are okay. If anyone has instructions or access to a manual for diagnosing the cruise control it would be much appreciated. Thanks, Gavin

I should have been clearer in my comment. You will definitely damage the push nut getting it off. In fact i think I cut it with snips to remove it. You need to be careful to NOT damage the plastic housing the wires go through or you run the risk of the push nut not holding securely when you re-install it. I used a new push nut and O-ring. Wish I could find the parts number and pictures, but can't seem to. Good Luck. It really wasn't hard to do. Hardest part was removing the sender and cleaning up the unit where the PO had packed on pounds of sealant rather than fix it properly.

Had to replace the o-ring on my sender unit. 1992. You just have to pry of the push nut doing as little damage to the plastic as possible so that the new one will grip. See this post

Keyav8r: Thanks for the write up. My '92 Gauge never goes above 3/4 and never goes blow 1/4. It seems to operate normally between those two ranges lowering relatively steadily. I've always filled up when it hits 1/4 (not knowing how low it could go) and it's never taken more than 12 gallons. I didn't even know i had a low fuel indicator. Judging from your resistance readings; If I disconnect the connector back at the fuel tank, I take it the gauge should got to full? If I then ground the gauge wire to body would it go to empty? Is the gauge wire easy to identify at the connector? Thanks.

After you get your seats recovered can you share pictures and the source of the seat covers please. I need to recover my seats sometime soon. Thanks.

Paypal sent. Site is awsome.

The replacement head is a 0331 casting Clearwater cylinder head. Is that a good thing or bad? Gavin

Just found out the head was replaced about a month ago with a re-manufactured head. Does this make me feel better or worse? Jeep has 102,000 miles. Gavin

I have been trying to find a Jeep cherokee for my 19 year old daughter. I'm being pretty picky but my 2 main criteria are no rust and 100,000 miles or less. I want her to be able to drive relatively trouble free for a couple of years to finish college then she's on her own. I was hoping to find a 1999 or a 1998 model but am not having much luck. I have come across a 2001 that looks pretty reasonable. Should I be overly concerned about head cracking issues or was this only a problem on a small percent of vehicles that were "mistreated." Is there an exterior check of the engine I can do to see if the head has cracked. i.e. common spot where it may leak fluid? Thanks for your input. Gavin

Daking: Do you have a link or information on the ones you purchased. those look great. Thanks

He had it on Craigslist in Richmond, Va for a few days at $5,500 and pulled it. Edit: I stand corrected. it was for sale on craigslist by the owner, now it's for sale by a dealer.

Thanks to all for your input. When you hear a loud cussing coming from my area this weekend, you'll know I'm elbow deep in rusted bolts. Gavin

I need to replace both the upper and lower ball joints on a 92 4wd. It failed inspection and I had noticed it was developing a bad wobble. I've watched a video and I'm sure it will be lots of fun trying to break lose 22 year old bolts. Would like some input. 1) Any brand of ball joints better than another. I have NAPA, Advance Auto, Autozone and even a new O'Reilly's in the area and there's always rock auto. 2) Any odd ball size sockets wrenched etc needed that I should get before I start the job and find I'm missing something? 3) Any specialty tools needed? 4) Any secrets or methods I should know before I start? Thanks for your input. Gavin

Man, you guys have sharp eyes. I look at it and see a good looking jeep. You guys look at it rationally and pick up the clues. Thank you. I'm now better prepared to inspect it and see what he says about the body work. I'll pay extra scrutiny to the inner fender wells and radiator area to see how extensive the damage was. If it was involved in a front left corner accident what area of the suspension and unibody would you be concerned about? It doesn't look like the body panel damage extended back to the door so how do I tell if it was merely cosmetic or something more serious. The price is pretty good for our area so I'm a little sceptical since the truck has been on craigslist for 20+ days. Thanks to all of you for your input. Gavin

I know price is kinda hard to figure out but I'm thinking of buying this for my daughter http://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/4618681307.html Is that a good price? Did the 1999 have the same head issues as the 2000 and 2001 4.0litres? What sort of problems would you anticipate with this jeep and what would you look for? Thanks for your input. Gavin

I got it. I gently tapped it back in the hole after giving it a light spray with wd-40. Then it came out freely. It must have gotten it of vertical when I was pulling it up. All done and back in with a new gasket. Thanks Gavin

1992 4.0L HO. Trying to remove the distributor to replace the gasket and hopefully reduce the oil leak. Removed nut from hold down clamp and twisted body back and forth but only raised distributor about 1/2 inch. Now it's stuck. Body won't turn and won't come up any higher. What's the secret to getting the distributor out??? If it's this hard to get out what will it be like to get it back in? Can't exactly hammer it into position. Thanks, Gavin

I'm getting ready to put in a full gauge cluster in my 1992 but need to roll the new odometer forward, as in increase the miles. I wonder if there is a way to do this electronically. Is there any way to determine what voltage needs to be fed to the gauge cluster and how it should be fed to make the odometer increase milage. Thanks for any suggestions.

I'll be real interested to hear how you finally resolve this problem. My 92 gas gauge never reads above 3/4 and I never really trust it below 1/4. I do not have the full cluster. Thanks

This is not a pioneer. It's a 1992 base. I'll have to look and see if I can find the paint code.