ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 Does anyone have a schematic/pinout for the connector to the module? I did some wire consolidation a while back and apparently i consolidate one to many. I currently have only three wires coming from the connector and i am pretty sure there are supposed to be a min of four for it to work. 16 guage Tan w/ blk stripe Power from HL switch 22 gauge Solid blk Ground 16 gauge Red w/ wht stripe Power from battery (B+) I believe i am missing a power wire from the ignition switch, and there just happens to be an untapped spot (solid brown) on my steering column connector (the really wide flat black one). I vaguely remember disconnecting a wire from the female portion of the connector, but just want to be certain before i go splicing something together that i shouldnt be. A pinout for that particular steering column connector could also answer this question. Thanks FPC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 26, 2014 Author Share Posted October 26, 2014 I appreciate the pic hornbrod. I thought i would be able to decipher it if a schematic could be found, but man i can't tell a darn thing from that. :( None of the wire colors match up and why are there wires going to/coming from a zillion different locations? Wiper switch, horn module, instrument cluster, chime module?? One thing it seems i can confirm from the schematic is that the sensor/module needs to see an ign power feed. I assume the module works something like this . . . . . . When you turn your key on, power is sent to the module via my currently absent wire. Then when your HL are turned on a secondary wire (tan/blck) also connected to the module is powered. At this point the timer is set but not triggered, for the timer to be triggered the ign power feed must be disconnected prior to turning off the HL. When this condition is met and both power sources are disconnected, a secondary connection inside the module is made allowing a 3rd constant hot wire (red/wht) to, in essence, back feed through the tan/blck wire to power the HL for the set time. This is possible because there is a splice in the Tan/Blck wire of the HL switch. This splice (same gauge & color) allows current to flow from the delay module directly to the selector stalk and onto HL. Clear as mud? :nuts: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 Would a pic of the connector help at all? My MJ has delay headlights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 26, 2014 Author Share Posted October 26, 2014 Would a pic of the connector help at all? My MJ has delay headlights. That would definitely be helpful. Do you have a voltmeter and know how to test for continuity? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 Would a pic of the connector help at all? My MJ has delay headlights. That would definitely be helpful. Do you have a voltmeter and know how to test for continuity? I can get you a pic in a bit. I may or may not be able to get my hands on a meter to test that for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 26, 2014 Author Share Posted October 26, 2014 10 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 Figured it out! :banana: It was just as i hypothesized. My only mistake was that i didnt wait long enough. The delay timer is not set the instant the ignition switch/power is turned off. There is a fail safe period that i was not aware of. I think this pause exists so that even if you turn the truck off before you turn your headlights off you still have the option to turn them off without activating the time delay. Here is the process. . . . 1. Key is in the RUN position with headlights on. 2. Key is turned to the off position, headlights are left on. 3. After about a 4 second interval the delay timer is set. 4. Turn HL off and timer takes over. 5. After approx 20-30sec HL shut off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 :banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 could someone post photos of this module I have other purposes for it and would like to know what I"m looking for when at jy also possible years to find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Found it with a quick search There's a connector up under the driver's side dash, and the delay module just plugs in, then is fastened to the lower dash with a screw. All MJs are wired for this feature. Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 AFAIK most XJs have these and some MJs. Hardest part about installing/removing it is getting yer noggin under the dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 I appreciate the pic hornbrod. I thought i would be able to decipher it if a schematic could be found, but man i can't tell a darn thing from that. :( None of the wire colors match up and why are there wires going to/coming from a zillion different locations? Wiper switch, horn module, instrument cluster, chime module?? This is for a 1990 MJ, per your signature? Hornbrod is a post-90 owner, and that page looks like a page out of a Chrysler-era FSM, not an AMC manual. It's entirely possible that the wire colors changed from the AMC models to the Chrysler models, and the entire schematic of the headlight delay module may have changed, as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Yep. Same module, connector, and wiring for 86-93 - different wire colors though as per usual. Someone post up a Renix schematic and you can see the schematics are the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 From a '87 Electrical FSM (I tried to rotate it, but photobucket would let me.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 ^^ Fixed it for you.You can rotate a Photobucket image by clicking on "Effects" then "Orientation". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Thx :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottJeep Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Most of the more high level "auto recycled" XJ have this. IF you get there in time around here. Mine came from an 87' Wagoneer Limited. Along with ALOT of other stuff. My quick research found that delay to be PRICEY if you wanna just go out and purchase it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 I just tested mine (87 MJ) and my daughter's (96 XJ), and neither have a 4 second delay. Turn the key off, them immediately turn the lights off (within 1/2 second even) and the headlights will stay on for a minute or so. No 4 second delay before the timer gets set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 ^^ Same here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 I just tested mine (87 MJ) and my daughter's (96 XJ), and neither have a 4 second delay. Turn the key off, them immediately turn the lights off (within 1/2 second even) and the headlights will stay on for a minute or so. No 4 second delay before the timer gets set. ^^ Same here. Really appreciate the follow up guys. Unfortunately i think i jumped the gun, as my delay has not worked since that one time i mentioned previously. I have triple checked all my connections and everything is as it should be, well at least according to how it worked the last time. On top of that, i have ran into another electrical problem. :mad: It seems the more i try to fix the problems with this truck the more show up. Kinda like hydra . . . . . be a good name for a build thread don't ya think? :idea: Anyway, my brake lights are not working now and the issue really has me stumped. I have long since replaced that PITA renix brake switch with a super simple Chevrolet piece like the one pictured. Up until tonight my brake lights have always worked without fail. This is the problem. I tested with a multimeter and confirmed that i still have constant 12v running to the brake light and that the switch works perfect. Here is the strange part, using a jumper wire to bypass the switch and connect the two wires i discovered that as soon as i do my 12v disappears. Disconnect the wires and it immediately returns. There are no sparks as if it was grounded and the lights don't light. My running lights and blinkers work perfect and the brake lights themselves worked perfect as little as 5hrs ago. After spending all this time reconditioning the electrical connections only for this to happen has me extremely irritated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Evidently the 12V you measure is high impedance and doesn't mean anything. Check the brake light fuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 Evidently the 12V you measure is high impedance and doesn't mean anything. Check the brake light fuse. Googled 'high impedance' still don't understand, but i will check the fuses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 Evidently the 12V you measure is high impedance and doesn't mean anything. Check the brake light fuse. Give that man a gold star! :clapping: It did turn out to be the fuse and fuse holder. Not knowing what high impedance meant i blundered on testing the line that delivers the power to the tail lights only to find that everything was in perfect order. My feelings toward my MJ at this point :rant: :mad: After mulling things over for for a few hours i go back to the fuse box and start rechecking things. At some point in my meddling i was inserting a jumper wire into the 'hot' wire of my brake switch and the other bare end touched a ground, but nothing happened, no arcing/sparks. :hmm: This peaked my interest so i rigged up my meter to see what was happening when the hot wire was grounded and low and behold the volts disappeared. I was already working on tracing the power wire so this just encouraged me even more. After a quick trace i found which fuse it went to and inspected it. Oddly enough the fuse was intact. No signs of damage of any kind. Checked the fuse holder clips and they looked good too, could be a little tighter, but nothing that would cause my current problem . . . . . . or so i thought. Using a jumper wire again i stuck it into the hot side of the fuse holder and scraped it against a ground. This time there was lots of fireworks, sparking and arcing oh my! I figured this had to be the source of my problem so i tightened up the little fuse holders and stuck a different/newer fuse back in and viola! brake lights! :banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidoo_j Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Redacted and started new thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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