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89 Pioneer. basically done


Keep the ax15 INTERNAL slave or convert to AW4?  

23 members have voted

  1. 1. Keep the ax15 INTERNAL slave or convert to AW4?

    • Keep ax15 but look for an external slave belhousing
      7
    • leave it be, replace leaking master cylinder
      5
    • swap ax15 in favour of aw4
      6
    • work on other stuff first...and do the swap later
      5
    • other...post it up
      0


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Why are you running 2 antenna's? They are not placed far enough apart to even work good. The antenna's need to be at least 7' apart and then they won't have interference with each other. To be quite honest with you, the way you have it setup will probably be worse than if you ran just 1...

 

Just trying to save you a headache before you get on the trails and nobody can hear you.

 

They actually need 6'(72 and some .000 inches) of spacing to allow for proper propogation. You can actually place them close enough, put RF to only one antenna and effectively create a parasitic effect on the radiation pattern. Get three or four antennas and you could turn your truck into a giant Yagi-type antenna.

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so I was at the junkyard today....picking up a snowmobile for my dad actually...and came home with a few other things.

 

 

note the snowmobile is half the size of my truck... :nuts:

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grabbed these things...

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consists of....

1 nice fuel tank door to match the red truck (replace rusty one)

1 blue chime module (door open, key in chime)

all fuses and modules from the fuse box

1 cruise control upper cable and speed sensor

1 4.0 gauge cluster (gonna 4.0 the gauges in the 3800)

a swing out tire carrier...application unknown

an ORIGINAL comanche shortbed bedmat.

all for $40, snowmobile was $150

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I'm debating on the tire carrier...it needs to be lower, and will need some fab work to fit, but I think I like it. have to re-do the bolt pattern from a 5.5 to a 4.5 pattern tho..

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already installed the cruise stuff in the 3800, to have the cruise computer fry...so I put the one out of the 89 in it and now it works. put that back in the 89 tho and I'll grab a good computer from the jy next week.

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Like I've told you before, you find the greatest stuff. Been looking for an original bed mat. I like the look of the tire carrier, what it come off?

 

:cheers:

 

thanks, but you trumped me with the black interior (still not finished btw)

 

no clue what it came off of??? a bronco or something....it was just laying there, and was $20, so I couldn't pass it up. whatever it was on was a 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern.

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if you don't use it for the back. Tube door is a thought.

 

doors are staying on it for now, I have a set of doors to make half doors for it and I'll have to alter the hinges to work so they're removable to swap to full ones, and also mount the speakers behind the kneeboard.

 

no power windows/locks on this beast!

 

oh, here's the LCA's and UCA's I got from $500 MJ. thx brent!

 

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and no, you're not trippin on acid, this next pic is terrible...

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gonna bend them 12* about 1/3 of the way up from the lower end in the next day or so (to allow for coil bucket clearance on articulation), then cut off an end and mount them to the jig to figure out the 17.18" center to center, and make the piece to fit in there. the filler piece will be solid round stock, I'll turn down the ends to fit into the existing tubes, after I cross-drill the tubes (4 holes per side). the drilling will give me excellent points to weld to the solid stock, then I can weld to the seam as well and it will be bulletproof!

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have to re-do the bolt pattern from a 5.5 to a 4.5 pattern tho..

 

thats about all D35 shafts are good for jamminz.gif I'm sure you've got one of those lyin around

 

haha, yep.

 

here's what I did today on the LCA's.

right after the bend.

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cut them on the bandsaw at my friend's machine shop

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making the plug/extensions

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had to use the lathe for that...

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all done with extensions

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then I cross-drilled the control arms on both sides..8 holes per control arm... for extra strength in welding

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welding them now, then I will build the uppers tomorrow afternoon, then go to the fair and volunteer for a bit, and gonna install the front lift on saturday.

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Nice Fab work .. that extension should be nice and strong when all is said and welded :)

you can ship those to hawaii. ill pay for shipping

 

LMAO ya right :P

 

 

Looks like the truck is coming along real nice. Been looking for a bed mat myself, hard to find. What size tires are on the red truck now?

 

thanks, I'm happy with it...and I didn't want the bedmat but hey, it was free...so I'll use it :D

 

the tires are 33x12.50's mounted on 7" wide rims with a 4.5" backspacing. I wish the backspacing was less, but for $10 on the rims...$200 on the tires. I can't complain, the tires are 90% tread left. rims will be swapped for 7.5's with 3" of bs when I get the $$$.

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dropping the front axle today...here's the results took 1.5 hours

 

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you can see the heavy duty coils that were in it vs. the 6.5" lift ones. I painted the axle already, and just gotta get the control arms out of the truck now, then extend the uppers, and I can put it back together.

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got 1 upper control arm done measured and tac welded

 

 

n69205416_32152038_480.jpg

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the lower half attached to the angle iron reinforcement that I'm using.

n69205416_32152040_1004.jpg

it's done! just needs finish welded. note that I used the angle iron on the bottom as reinforcement, and I have only 1 cut that I made. took a piece of one control arm that was 8" long, and a piece that was just under 8" (both from the center of the bushings) and that gave me what I needed for measurements. end result, finished CA. I also added plates from the leftovers as security to reinforce the control arm...

n69205416_32152041_1265.jpg

n69205416_32152042_1515.jpg

 

by the way, I used zinc coat weldable primer prior to welding because I wanted the inside (under the angle iron) to be painted with some sort of paint for rust prevention.

 

what do y'all think so far?

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got the driver's side completely done. now just gotta do the pass side then install it all

 

n69205416_32152361_9185.jpg

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then also put the coil springs on the axle. gotta remove the shocks from it tomorrow while the last control arm dries, then I can put the ca's on the frame and then the axle up in there and be done in time for tea!

 

then a few poser pics are in order, and bring it back in turn her around, and drop the rear axle out for the SOA.

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alright, so I got the front axle back in, and all the associated stuff. now I just need the shocks, and to stretche the brake line farther.

also I will need to do a tierod flip on this thing. it is do-able. the tires are toed in a bit, so that will be adjusted as well.

I think I may need to extend the upper control arms a bit more too.

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here it is just set down

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hooking up steering etc.

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cleaned the CAD and got it working too

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made the swaybar links, solid ones for now

n69205416_32154056_697.jpg

and the calipers are on, but there's not enough room in the brake line for 6.5" of lift

n69205416_32154057_977.jpg

the brake line bent back really easy, but I can't pull any more through

n69205416_32154058_1245.jpg

just takin it up a rock. that's as far as I could go...the brake line was too far stretched

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this is the amount of clearance at full turn that I have between the control arm and the tire

n69205416_32154064_2848.jpg

and between the tire and the fender flare

n69205416_32154065_3110.jpg

 

 

so the front sits at 39" of height from the ground to the fender flare

that's 23.5" from the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender flare, compared to the stock being 17" or something like that. so true lift was 5.5 inches roughly. I'm OK with that.

 

the rear will be lifted SO in the rear this week, and will sit about 2" higher than the front when done. then all I have to do is front shocks, all brake lines need extended or replaced, and do something about the steering arms...

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so the front sits at 39" of height from the ground to the fender flare

that's 23.5" from the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender flare, compared to the stock being 17" or something like that. so true lift was 5.5 inches roughly. I'm OK with that.

 

 

:nuts: 23.5-17=6.5 ;)

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so the front sits at 39" of height from the ground to the fender flare

that's 23.5" from the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender flare, compared to the stock being 17" or something like that. so true lift was 5.5 inches roughly. I'm OK with that.

 

 

:nuts: 23.5-17=6.5 ;)

 

lol, I meant to write 18 instead of 17....

 

I'm blond

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its cool, haha, you got 6.5" over a 2wd manche though! :roll:

 

i just ran out to check just to know but my manche's stock 4x4 sits at ~18.5 front and ~20.25" rear center to flare

 

yeah, hence I said 5.5" of lift approx.

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some more pics of it posing with the rear end lifted (via jack to reciever hitch) to get an idea of actual ride height.

n69205416_32160827_6579.jpg

n69205416_32160828_6895.jpg

and I fixed that damn fog light relay...fricking thing was bad and would shock the $#!& outta ya if you touched the truck while standing. I'm just happy it didn't fry anything...

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painted the driver's side black. just gotta do both cab corners now.

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did the floors up, used rubbercoat after applying a rust conversion/preventative and letting it dry.

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then when dry, I always apply a tarp before putting the carpet in. I find that this ensures that no water will be seeping through to the metal (especially in carpeted floors) it will make it last that much longer.

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then got the whole interior in...

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it needs cleaned.

 

here's my pimptastic original headliner, 18 years and going strong...

n69205416_32160844_4353.jpg

 

and here's what it looks like behind the seat...in case you didn't know or something..

n69205416_32160845_4695.jpg

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Nice steering wheel on there. Also liking the "finished" stance of it. Nice use of the tarp under the carpet too, good thinking there. jamminz.gif

 

thanks, not sure if the steering wheel will stay or not. it came off an old 80's camaro at the yard.

 

the one downfall to the tarp is that IF it gets water underneath it, it holds it in. but if you set it up right, it won't.

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