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So ive done quite a bit of research before posting this and ive found similar idle issues.

 

Mine mostly idles low like ~500 and bounces around. It goes lower than 500 sometimes then catches itself and idles back up a little. Sometimes its just a constant low idle. I also feel and hear a miss when idling. Small vibrations which is when the idle drops.

 

Also if i quickly "brap" the throttle there is a dead spot, then it revs up a bit, but when the rpms fall, the engine wants to stall but catches itself.

 

Once i get going cruising, WOT, the engine runs fine.

 

I replaced the TPS because I thought that was it. i tested it before and was okay but with my research everyone was saying TPS or IAC.

 

I have no vacuum leaks. New intake gasket, bolts are tight, no exhaust leaks, replaced all the hard vacuum lines with rubber ones. New spark plugs, copper champions.

 

I do not wanna spend money on sensors i don't need. Any ideas?

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Like other than that it runs awesome. I am going to clean my ccv and try to make my valve cover not leak oil anymore..... :crossfingers:

I know there are a lot of threads on low idle and such but each one just isnt the exact same issue. Or the solution in the other threads I have already fixed.

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  • 1 month later...

Plus I do not see why the alignment of the distributor would be bad since i never took it out or messed with it.

Process of elimination. Things wear.

 

Yes, tabs must be removed. What about this? What if somebody already performed the indexing as it was a factory fix, and it has somehow moved? 

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I have fought a dead spot just off idle since I got my 87 Chief and this is what fixed it. Took 30 min. I marked the #1 post on the dist. and then removed the cap and turned the crank with a breaker bar till the ballancer mark lines up with TDC mark and rotor pointed to my #1 mark. I then swapped out the cap for my windowed one and it was off several degrees. Just follow cruisers tips.

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The Dorman (594-018) I put on back in February has this notch in the lip closest to the block:

 

YJyZu4A.jpg

 

I'm assuming it's a timing mark, although I didn't check to see if it lined up with the one I pulled off at all, and I don't has dat one no more. 

You might be able to see it when it's oriented to line up with the timing marks, but I don't know. As far as my fingers can tell, it doesn't extend any further onto the pulley, it's just that little notch on the back, but I didn't bother popping the hood to look from above. My apologies for the potato picture. My phone's all I've got as a camera right now.

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My harmonic balancer is not new and actully the rubber seal or bushing for the balancer is partly sticking out like it is going bad.

 

But i indexed my distributor. And here is the result. The black mark on the right is the centerline for cyl #1 post. The mark on the left is the estimated position of where the rotor should be. The rotor edge of the arc should just be past the cyl #1 post. Which it is.

 

y2ura8ez.jpg

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Actually, it should be .020" PAST the dizzy cap terminal. That's why you need to use an old cap that's been cut up. Way more accurate. Oldseddie's was not far off and he had issues with it....Just sayin...

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Okay so i took the cap off and the rotor has a little play in it. Like i can kinda turn it back and forth a little. Is that bad?

 

Also, sure after cutting the locating tab off you can turn the distributor but the cap and rotor and distributor are all bolted together so they all turn equally.

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