ggcnash Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Hi guys recently got some Jk wheels and adapters from a buddy that had them on an xj they were given to me! The only thing that concerns me are the adapters they are just spacers (lug centric) 1.25" I see a lot of you guys run the spidertrax hub,wheel,and lug centric. I know the advantages are it doesn't put all the stress on the lugs. When I discussed it with him he said it's just a marketing ploy by spidertrax and other company's to get you to spend 2-300 $ on their special spacers he told me to take a look at the factory wheels they are not hubcentric (good point). So why would your spacer have to be he told me to just pattern my torque with the lugs use loctite, and your good to go said he has been running them for 3 years no problems just wondering you guys opinion on the matter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 If makes sense to use hub centric spacers when the rim is hub centric. The rim was designed to be supported in that fashion and ideally should be used with hub centric spacers. I really can not think of an alloy Jeep factory rim in the past twenty years that is not hub centric. Spidertrax spacers and adapters are expensive because they are made in the USA under strict quality control with a life time warranty. Those bare aluminum non-hub centric spacers are typically the same cheap Chinese spacers that every online store resells. Wheels staying on the vehicle are too important to me to risk it on the cheapest wheel spacer available. I just went downstairs to check that both the factory wheels on my LJ and MJ are hub centric. Which are Ravine rims and 2013+ JK Rubicon rims. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted March 11, 2014 Author Share Posted March 11, 2014 If makes sense to use hub centric spacers when the rim is hub centric. The rim was designed to be supported in that fashion and ideally should be used with hub centric spacers. I really can not think of an alloy Jeep factory rim in the past twenty years that is not hub centric. Spidertrax spacers and adapters are expensive because they are made in the USA under strict quality control with a life time warranty. Those bare aluminum non-hub centric spacers are typically the same cheap Chinese spacers that every online store resells. Wheels staying on the vehicle are too important to me to risk it on the cheapest wheel spacer available. I just went downstairs to check that both the factory wheels on my LJ and MJ are hub centric. Which are Ravine rims and 2013+ JK Rubicon rims. Thanks didn't like the way they bolted up anyway half a nut spooky gonna get some spidertrax you have the adapters right what size spacer (adapter) did you go with to get a full nut and not have to cut the stud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted March 11, 2014 Author Share Posted March 11, 2014 You got em on front too right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyav8r Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Alexia covered the "why hub centric well enough. You will use spacers for one of two reasons. The first might be to get clearance when running larger tires to keep them from rubbing control arms and/or fender wells. In this case, you would use spacers front and rear, The second might be for appearance to get the front and rear wheels/tires to look the same on front and rear (stick out under the flares the same front and rear). In this case you would just use 1-1/4" spacers at the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Hub centric spacers/adapters are the preferred way to go. But the danger of using non-hub centric sets is over stated. For decades few aftermarket wheels, particularly the generic steel wagon wheels and d-windows preferred by the off-roaders, were hub centric. They were a universal design that had a matching lug pattern and that was it. These were used on massive wheel/tire combos without issue. They are still out there being sold as are rims with "universal" lug patterns. Just as there are stories of BOTH kinds of spacers failing you can also find people blowing up "unbreakable" 1-ton axles on a Jeep. Do you know how everything in today's society is becoming more wussified? A kid gets called one name it is bullying? Everyone is supposedly allergic to peanuts and gluten? Every team is a winner no matter how badly they lose? The same thing applies here. Sure your kid is infinitesimal more safe wearing a helmet, elbow pads, knee pads, shin guards, a mouth guard, a tail-bone protector, and pillows zip-tied around his torso to ride his bike in the driveway. But is it realistic? Such worriers is one reason there are so many poser jeeps out there: modify it to look like an off-roader but dare get it dirty??? NEVER!!! :doh: The best place for these people is home on their couch. But wait...most accidents happen in the home! Whaaaaaaaaaa..... I would rather die while I'm living then live like I'm dead. J. Buffet :soap box: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvd Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Got my spidertrax spacers off their website, (blemished though I can't tell for 80$). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted March 11, 2014 Author Share Posted March 11, 2014 Alexia covered the "why hub centric well enough. You will use spacers for one of two reasons. The first might be to get clearance when running larger tires to keep them from rubbing control arms and/or fender wells. In this case, you would use spacers front and rear, The second might be for appearance to get the front and rear wheels/tires to look the same on front and rear (stick out under the flares the same front and rear). In this case you would just use 1-1/4" spacers at the rear. Well I gotta use them front and rear to get the Jk wheels to fit they are 5x5 how else would I do it? Is this what guys are doing to run late model wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Got my spidertrax spacers off their website, (blemished though I can't tell for 80$). That is a good price. Morris 4x4 has a quality set for $85/pair regular price if you can't find the Spidertrax deal. They are easy to deal with, too. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/wheel-accessories/wheel-spacer-synergy-manufacturing.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Alexia covered the "why hub centric well enough. You will use spacers for one of two reasons. The first might be to get clearance when running larger tires to keep them from rubbing control arms and/or fender wells. In this case, you would use spacers front and rear, The second might be for appearance to get the front and rear wheels/tires to look the same on front and rear (stick out under the flares the same front and rear). In this case you would just use 1-1/4" spacers at the rear. Well I gotta use them front and rear to get the Jk wheels to fit they are 5x5 how else would I do it? Is this what guys are doing to run late model wheels? Yes, you are correct in needing them front & rear. IIRC 1.25" is about as narrow as you can go to adapt a lug pattern. Some places do offer wider spacers at least (don't know about adapters) if you wished to get a wider set for the rear to even out the track widths. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted March 11, 2014 Author Share Posted March 11, 2014 Alexia covered the "why hub centric well enough. You will use spacers for one of two reasons. The first might be to get clearance when running larger tires to keep them from rubbing control arms and/or fender wells. In this case, you would use spacers front and rear, The second might be for appearance to get the front and rear wheels/tires to look the same on front and rear (stick out under the flares the same front and rear). In this case you would just use 1-1/4" spacers at the rear. Well I gotta use them front and rear to get the Jk wheels to fit they are 5x5 how else would I do it? Is this what guys are doing to run late model wheels? Yes, you are correct in needing them front & rear. IIRC 1.25" is about as narrow as you can go to adapt a lug pattern. Some places do offer wider spacers at least (don't know about adapters) if you wished to get a wider set for the rear to even out the track widths. Guys that are running them in front are they able to get a full nut on front or are they extending their studs? From what I can tell the ones I have are the same width as spidertrax 1.25" adapters (not hubcentric) and can only seem to get a 1/2 to 3/4 nut on unless the spidertrax are cut deeper where the lugs go? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Adapters and these types of spacers will allow you to have the same thread engagement as stock. If you know people who are having trouble with thread engagement they are using shim-style spacers and those are nothing like the adapters/spacers you need. That type is more common with the ricky ricer set and uses the original stud to hold the wheel on.The adapters will have holes for your original studs to pass through and into a well on the adapter. You will then tighten lug nuts onto those studs to attached the adapter. Those nuts and studs will not extend past the well. The adapter will have new studs in it and you attach your wheel onto those. You will end up with 5 studs & nuts holding the adapter to the mounting surface and five different studs & nuts holding the wheel to the adapter. Go to any web site that sells these and look at the pictures of the adapters/spacers and it is self-explanatory. If you have the type of adapter described above remember that you need to use small open lug nuts on the vehicles studs. Then neither the stud or lug nut will extend past the well. http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/both-tires-rubbing-both-lca-after-rock-krawler-2-5-max-travel-installed-187726-4.html#post2815035 In this pic the small lug nuts will actually get used on the vehicle studs when they pass through the open holes and you will use the correct nuts for your wheels on the studs pressing through the adapter. If you can attach the adapter but can't get the wheel on the adapter you may have other issues. If you can only get the lug nut started a thread or so then the stud and nut may not be the same thread size. If the wheel will not set onto the adapter's studs to allow them to pass through the well far enough to firmly seat the outer lug nuts then you may need longer studs mounted in the adapter. Alloy wheels can be thicker in this area than a steel wheel and as the non hub-centric units are generally cheapie imports they may have scrimped and the stud length may not be long enough for your particular wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 he told me to take a look at the factory wheels they are not hubcentric (good point). what rims are you referring to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 he told me to take a look at the factory wheels they are not hubcentric (good point). what rims are you referring to? Factory rims are generally hub-centric while after market may not be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggcnash Posted March 11, 2014 Author Share Posted March 11, 2014 he told me to take a look at the factory wheels they are not hubcentric (good point). what rims are you referring to? After further investigation they are hubcentric Jk wheels my procomps are not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 I just got two sets of spidertrax from Quadratec at regular price, but with no tax and free shipping. I didnt want to skimp in this area. Its cheap insurance to just get the good ones. I did look at all the others though and even looked at the generic non hub centric ones from the wheel place here in town.... I just didnt like the way they looked. If they are that cheap looking, how cheaply are they made to begin with? The Spidertrax looked awesome, and made in the USA. can't go wrong.... I hope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Can't go wrong with Spidertrax!Five years and 45k miles, I haven't had an issue on my TJ. I do remove them each summer before I drive to wheel the Rockies. Clean the studs of remaining loc tite, clean spacer and rotor mounting surface, reinstall with new loc tite, and torque to 110ft/lbs. It's not rocket science.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjy_26 Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 I'm running Spidertrax 1.5" (I believe) spacers in thr front and some no-name spacers I got locally in the back (1.25") that I had to have my own studs pressed into. 2 years later, they are both doing their jobs. All I do is inspect them periodicallyand make sure everything is still tight and looking good... just as everyone should, whether you run spacers or not. Are the Spidertrax units finished to a higher standard? Undoubtedly. Are they "better"? In my opinion, they are so far as looks go, but functionally, they're both doing the job. Oh, and for what it's worth, I'm 99.99999% sure that the Canyons I'm running with these spacers aren't hub centric, though I could be wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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