redwolf624 Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 so this has me stumped, i checked the timing and even had my dad double check it for me and it's dead on but i have to pump the gas and pull the choke on just to get my truck started and once it's been idling for 10 minutes it still runs rough, any idea? remember i have the carbed 2.8, Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Check your vacuum lines... :teehee: You might be there for a while. :wall: Probably best to let another member with 2.hate experience to chime in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee21490 Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Check your vacuum lines... :teehee: You might be there for a while. :wall: Probably best to let another member with 2.hate experience to chime in... God i hated mine. First thing i did was tear out all the vacuum lines, Put a holley carb on it & bypassed 90% of the vacuum jungle that is the 2.8. so this has me stumped, i checked the timing and even had my dad double check it for me and it's dead on but i have to pump the gas and pull the choke on just to get my truck started and once it's been idling for 10 minutes it still runs rough, any idea? remember i have the carbed 2.8, Redwolf Did this just start? Did you change anything recently? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 Check your vacuum lines... :teehee: You might be there for a while. :wall: Probably best to let another member with 2.hate experience to chime in... God i hated mine. First thing i did was tear out all the vacuum lines, Put a holley carb on it & bypassed 90% of the vacuum jungle that is the 2.8. so this has me stumped, i checked the timing and even had my dad double check it for me and it's dead on but i have to pump the gas and pull the choke on just to get my truck started and once it's been idling for 10 minutes it still runs rough, any idea? remember i have the carbed 2.8, Redwolf Did this just start? Did you change anything recently? i have not changed anything except the fog lights and added air horns but my truck has been doin this before then, i don't know if the the carb needs to be adjusted or what but i'm drinkin gas worse than a hummer H2, i know in about 2,000 miles it's due for a tune up but i don't think that'd have anything to do with it not wanting to start, Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 First thing i did was tear out all the vacuum lines, Put a holley carb on it & bypassed 90% of the vacuum jungle that is the 2.8. This. Or you have a valve that won't close. Also, you say you have not yet done a 'tune-up'.........bad wires or plugs will also give you a miss or rough idle.......same with distributor cap and rotor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 First thing i did was tear out all the vacuum lines, Put a holley carb on it & bypassed 90% of the vacuum jungle that is the 2.8. This. Or you have a valve that won't close. Also, you say you have not yet done a 'tune-up'.........bad wires or plugs will also give you a miss or rough idle.......same with distributor cap and rotor. think i have found the problem, i left my truck with my dad today so he could go through the vaccum jungle and make sure the timin is good, i get home and checked the distributor and the bolt holdin it down was loose, tighted it down and seems to wanna start and run good again, we'll find out tomorrow when i go in to work and come home, Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted February 23, 2014 Author Share Posted February 23, 2014 so today leavin work my engine still didn't wanna start but it did, i think it needed a little bit of a choke since it's been sittin for 4 hours but it's nice out and shouldn't need the choke, also it's still runnin rough, i checked the vaccum today when i got home and played with the carb and there's no leaks and the carb made no difference, any ideas? Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 more semptoms of whatever is makin my truck sick, at idol it feels and sounds like the carbs fuel air screw is bein closed but it i open it all the way it makes no difference, could my carb be shot, could it be my spark plugs not makin enough spark? Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Get a carb rebuild kit for it. While you're in it clean it up real good using carb cleaner and blow out the jets and passages. I have to do this bi-annually on the bikes with the crappy ethanol fuel now.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Get a carb rebuild kit for it. While you're in it clean it up real good using carb cleaner and blow out the jets and passages. I have to do this bi-annually on the bikes with the crappy ethanol fuel now.. alright, i'll get that a shot first, deffently cheaper than buyin a new carb even off ebay and would it make a difference if i had to rebuild my carb when i first bout my truck? Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 If it runs with the idle mixture screwed all the way in, you have a VACUUM LEAK. And how in the hell was the timing "dead on" with a loose distributor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Start it up, put your hand over the carb intake, and see if the idle improves. If it does, the carb has the vacuum leak, usually caused by a rotten o-ring(s), hole in the diaphragm, and/or clogged jet passages. If the carb has never been rebuilt, it needs it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 If it runs with the idle mixture screwed all the way in, you have a VACUUM LEAK. And how in the hell was the timing "dead on" with a loose distributor? no clue the the timin was dead on, it confused me too Start it up, put your hand over the carb intake, and see if the idle improves. If it does, the carb has the vacuum leak, usually caused by a rotten o-ring(s), hole in the diaphragm, and/or clogged jet passages. If the carb has never been rebuilt, it needs it. i'll try that, thanks, Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spectormj Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Clean the crap out of it i carry a can of carb cleaner in my truck just incase Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Clean the crap out of it i carry a can of carb cleaner in my truck just incase alright, i'll give that a try before i go and rebuild the carb, 5 bucks for carb cleaner is better than a 21 carb rebuild kit, Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spectormj Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 it worked for me might help if not its still a good thing to have with the carbed 2.8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 it worked for me might help if not its still a good thing to have with the carbed 2.8 if it doesn't help how is it still a good thing to have a carbed 2.8? Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spectormj Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 cause the carb cleaner is good for carbs anyway and ive used some of my carb cleaner to start a fire before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48MJ Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Also check the fuel filter thats on the carb where the fuel line goes in. They plug up and are a royal pain to get to. I left my filter out and put one on the inner fender (lots easier to check and change). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Also check the fuel filter thats on the carb where the fuel line goes in. They plug up and are a royal pain to get to. I left my filter out and put one on the inner fender (lots easier to check and change). fuel filter on the carb? Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spectormj Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Yea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48MJ Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Yes there is supposed to be one right where the fuel line screws into the carb. It takes I believe a 1" Wrench to remove the fitting and it is a little paper filter inside of the housing with a spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 Yes there is supposed to be one right where the fuel line screws into the carb. It takes I believe a 1" Wrench to remove the fitting and it is a little paper filter inside of the housing with a spring. ok, i'll see if i can't check that tomorrow, but i just checked the vaccum with a gauge and adjusted the carb again, i got 18" of vaccum and my exhaust is smellin "normal" again but i do have run on, it's not all the time but i do have it, there will be times i'll turn the key off and the engine wants to keep goin, sometimes it's for a little and other times it's like i'm revin my engine for a race, what could be the cause of that, Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Pull the spark plugs, make sure they're clean and the right ones. Run-on can be caused by plugs holding heat too long or carbon deposits that are still burning, among other things. Lots of short trips where the engine doesn't warm up can cause depositing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 Pull the spark plugs, make sure they're clean and the right ones. Run-on can be caused by plugs holding heat too long or carbon deposits that are still burning, among other things. Lots of short trips where the engine doesn't warm up can cause depositing. i'll deffently check to see if they're clean, i know they're the right ones for my engine cause i checked into that before i bought em, Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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