RamblinRingo Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Alright guys with frostbite coming up I wanna be ready for a beating I just bout 20ft of 3x2x1/4 tubing to make these rocker guards. Plan on going wheel to wheel about 6.5ft I want the tubing to e flush with the body and the steps will stick out a bit. I'm also thinking about doing behind the wheel also but the frame is higher and would be harder to tie in. Also plan on one side or both being an air tank. Still have to buy more tubing for frame tie ins and steps but I got the 20ft if 2x3 for $102 Just thought I'd get this started so I was motivated to do a DIY. Pic heavy. Should be done by the end of the week seeing as how Frostbite is Sat!!! Here is what I'm going for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamblinRingo Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Who's rig is this??? This is Exactly what I'm going for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 I think that's the project Bucky from buffalob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 http://comancheclub.com/topic/27668-h3resqs-dream-mj-the-build-continues/ That pictures is on page 39 lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamblinRingo Posted February 20, 2014 Author Share Posted February 20, 2014 So got started lastnight. First I cut my pieces to 6ft This is 2x3x.25 I wanted an angle but I don't want them crazy sharp so I just took off 1.5 from the bottom of each side Made my end caps just a little but bigger than the inside of the tube this way my weld wasn't past the side of my tube less grinding I'm only a novice welder but I didn't think I did to bad ;) I then propped it up against the truck and measured the spaces to the frame..... No pics sorry but this was a pain in the @$$ the frame gets narrower towards the front.... The rear was like 7.25" the middle was like 9.75" and the front was like 10.25" cut these pieces and cleaned them up then I put put them I between the frame and the rocker guard and marked the rocker guard where they needed to be. I put the rocker guard flat on the concrete and put a 1/4" plate under each frame tie in to bring it flush with the bottom of the curves tubing. And welded them And after this I did the other side the same way. I decide at 1 am I wasn't up for bending the tubes for the steps so I'm doing that tonight. And I think I'll make them air tanks a little later on. But 1 am deffinatly ain't quitin' time! I then replace my steering links with the currie enterprises kit. Looks good and was easy install still gotta align it a little better and I need a new track bar (any suggestions?) but here's some pics of that More to come tomorrow gotta bend the tubes weld, them on, paint em and get them on the truck. NEED HELP DECIDING WHETHER TO WELD THEM OR BOLT THEM TO THE FRAME Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 You cannot weld them to the sheetmetal, you need spreader plates to take the load. The frame rails are 2 and 3 layers of sheetmetal and cannot take the load. Best bet would be to plate frame if you want to weld. You also need to have vertical tie ins to go into the pinch weld on the rockers, or one good hit and they are toast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamblinRingo Posted February 20, 2014 Author Share Posted February 20, 2014 Okay I think I'm going to bolt 1/4 inch plate to the frame and the weld to the plate. Can you explain what you mean by vertical welds to the pinch seam?? I and giving it about 3/8 of space between the seam and the frame tie ins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Plating the frame is a great idea over welding directly to it. Just from things I have observed on XJ's I think that given enough time I would sleeve any bolt holes I put through the frame if I didn't plate each side or use large reinforcements around the bolt on the unplated side. I used 2x6 tubing to make frame reinforcements for a CJ. I cut the top of the tube off to get the C into the various heights that I needed. I welded them directly to the frame but the full-framed CJ is a completely different animal. Although labor intensive it was about 10% of the cost of pre-made frame reinforcements. Many of the better rails are attached to the pinch weld as well as the frame in one way or another. You could get some angle and weld it across your outriggers at the proper spacing from your main rail. Drill some holes for the angle, duplicate the holes on the pinch weld, and bolt them on to tie everything together. Here is one example of many out there: http://www.ajsoffroadarmor.com/product.php?productid=17515&cat=250&page=1 For the track bar I would take the opportunity to replace the mount, as well. My choice would be: http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-STBCK&Category_Code=PFX If you ever measure up the dimensions on those rails and then post them I know many people would appreciate it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamblinRingo Posted February 20, 2014 Author Share Posted February 20, 2014 Okay I'll get on the computer some time next week and make a drawing with dimensions. I was thinking that if I tied into the pinch seam that when I did hit a rock and if it did move the rocker guard it would bend or buckle the body panel. If I just tie into the frame with a 3/8 gap between the rocker rail and any body part then it would give the cleanse for flex without hiring anything.... I love the advice and want to do this right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 If you don't tie into the pinch seam, when you do hit the rock, it'll twist the frame side all to heck, equally as bad The pinch seam is one of the strongest points on the cab, properly tied into it and you should be able to handyman jack from the side, now do you really want that 3/8" space to allow flex at the unibody rail tie in? Believe me you'll flip the truck over before you bend that point (reinforced/tied in) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamblinRingo Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 Got them finished up just in time for the frostbite event and boy did they do their job hhsha. So I plated the frame and welded them to the plate. I got them far enough up that they Rest in the pinch seam but I didn't tie them in. They worked great, rock hard and that's what I wanted. I will add the side steps sometime when i need somthing to do. Also I'll make one an air tank when I get a compressor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 ..... Vertical welds on frame sections create stress and tear points. Probably shouldn't have done that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbain Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 Here are a couple pics of how I did my tubing...... rolled them up a little to help protect the body when I slid off rocks off-camber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 ..... Vertical welds on frame sections create stress and tear points. Probably shouldn't have done that. I'm curious, whats a better way then? Weld all the way around? My JCR sliders bolt on, the frame side and pinch. can't really comment on their mounting as they have been in que (parts pile)for the last three years to go on the 87. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 The plates he did are spreader plates. They should have had 4 holes in them, one on each corner, with bolts put in and tied into pinch welds for vertical support. Plating the frame involves putting a sleeve or plate front to back with horizontal welds only, and many supplemental plug welds (drill holes in the plate before attaching to frame, fill the hole with weld) fisheye or fishtail on the ends to keep a curved weld so that you do not have any verticals. Vertical welds on frames create stress points as the frame twists under pretty much any scenario. This will tear away the welds from that section, and the metal they are welded to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamblinRingo Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Jbain, that's my plan man. Do you have armor on your bed rails?? If these welds do rip out of the Frame I will post up a "you told me so" thread but I don't think they will I don't do enough hardcore wheeling for this to be that big of a deal..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbain Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Yea but the guy I had bend it up did a crappy job so I just mounted them for a ride and planned to take them off and have them rebent.... but you know how things go and once something is bolted up and functional it gets sent to the bottom of the list..... the best armored bedrails I've seen are on H3RESQ's MJ (the grey one posted above) or Reson46's.... he added a rub rail that I really like........ by the way I like the blue paint, I have a 81 Camaro that's almost that exact color Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 ..... Vertical welds on frame sections create stress and tear points. Probably shouldn't have done that. I'm curious, whats a better way then? Weld all the way around? well, circles would be ideal. straight lines are bad. I fudged it a bit and nipped the corners on mine. it's sorta round now. :D but mine aren't welded on in the typical fashion. the tubes go through the frame and are welded to both sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spectormj Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Pete do you have the specs on your rails? cause I'm looking at Ringos and all the others and I'm currious how thick to go cause once i get the metal in I'm doing rail/steps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamblinRingo Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Spector, I did .25" and I think it's a little over kill lol. I believe 3/16 would be good, a lot of the ones you can buy on the internet are 1/8" wall I don't think that's do it..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spectormj Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Overkill to me is nonexistant Ringo i want to go thick armor on a few spots front end rockers trans bed sides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamblinRingo Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Thanks for the input Pete! Yours look good and it's does make sense to put the bar all the way through. Like me, you didn't "tie" into the pinch seam either. Looks like you kinda grinded em round and just have the pinch seam touching your bars. Correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbain Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 On mine I didn't go through the frame (but probably should have) but I did tie into my pinch seam..... sandwiched it between two pieces of flat stock.... drilled and bolted....alot of strength in that pinch seam... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Thanks for the input Pete! Yours look good and it's does make sense to put the bar all the way through. Like me, you didn't "tie" into the pinch seam either. Looks like you kinda grinded em round and just have the pinch seam touching your bars. Correct? if you look closely, you'll see I don't really have pinch seams anymore. :( so using them as support in any way was never an option. but on the other hand, if I had some rust free pinch seams, there's no WAY I'd be drilling holes through them. I live in Michigan and rust is always stalking you, just waiting for a opportunity, an opening... a weakness... don't remember what the round bars are but they were one step thicker than what is typically used in rollbars. the square ones are 1/4" walls. tie-in plates on the frame are 3/16" thick I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spectormj Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 ok cool thanks pete Ill start lookin for some thick round bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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