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Rocker Guards/ Steps


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Alright guys with frostbite coming up I wanna be ready for a beating I just bout 20ft of 3x2x1/4 tubing to make these rocker guards. Plan on going wheel to wheel about 6.5ft I want the tubing to e flush with the body and the steps will stick out a bit. I'm also thinking about doing behind the wheel also but the frame is higher and would be harder to tie in. Also plan on one side or both being an air tank.

 

Still have to buy more tubing for frame tie ins and steps but I got the 20ft if 2x3 for $102

 

Just thought I'd get this started so I was motivated to do a DIY. Pic heavy. Should be done by the end of the week seeing as how Frostbite is Sat!!!

 

Here is what I'm going for

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So got started lastnight. First I cut my pieces to 6ft 5amy8apu.jpg

This is 2x3x.25

I wanted an angle but I don't want them crazy sharp so I just took off 1.5 from the bottom of each side u3ygyjav.jpgu8uvyzy8.jpg

Made my end caps just a little but bigger than the inside of the tube this way my weld wasn't past the side of my tube less grinding ne6aqe6u.jpgbyqupy7e.jpgbudydatu.jpg

I'm only a novice welder but I didn't think I did to bad ;)

 

I then propped it up against the truck and measured the spaces to the frame..... No pics sorry but this was a pain in the @$$ the frame gets narrower towards the front.... The rear was like 7.25" the middle was like 9.75" and the front was like 10.25" cut these pieces and cleaned them up then I put put them I between the frame and the rocker guard and marked the rocker guard where they needed to be. I put the rocker guard flat on the concrete and put a 1/4" plate under each frame tie in to bring it flush with the bottom of the curves tubing. And welded them

pype8ejy.jpg3ere8ybe.jpgetesury4.jpg

And after this I did the other side the same way. I decide at 1 am I wasn't up for bending the tubes for the steps so I'm doing that tonight. And I think I'll make them air tanks a little later on. 3ynetetu.jpg

 

But 1 am deffinatly ain't quitin' time! I then replace my steering links with the currie enterprises kit. Looks good and was easy install still gotta align it a little better and I need a new track bar (any suggestions?) but here's some pics of that dysa5y9e.jpgetypy5ev.jpgugary4as.jpgebequ8em.jpg4ezyseda.jpgaquqezyd.jpgy8umygu7.jpgu6ytynu4.jpge5abyzar.jpgupy5a6y4.jpg

 

More to come tomorrow gotta bend the tubes weld, them on, paint em and get them on the truck.

 

NEED HELP DECIDING WHETHER TO WELD THEM OR BOLT THEM TO THE FRAME

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You cannot weld them to the sheetmetal, you need spreader plates to take the load.  The frame rails are 2 and 3 layers of sheetmetal and cannot take the load.   Best bet would be to plate frame if you want to weld.

 

You also need to have vertical tie ins to go into the pinch weld on the rockers, or one good hit and they are toast.

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Plating the frame is a great idea over welding directly to it. Just from things I have observed on XJ's I think that given enough time I would sleeve any bolt holes I put through the frame if I didn't plate each side or use large reinforcements around the bolt on the unplated side.  I used 2x6 tubing to make frame reinforcements for a CJ.  I cut the top of the tube off to get the C into the various heights that I needed. I welded them directly to the frame but the full-framed CJ is a completely different animal. Although labor intensive it was about 10% of the cost of pre-made frame reinforcements. 

 

Many of the better rails are attached to the pinch weld as well as the frame in one way or another. You could get some angle and weld it across your outriggers at the proper spacing from your main rail. Drill some holes for the angle, duplicate the holes on the pinch weld, and bolt them on to tie everything together.

Here is one example of many out there:

http://www.ajsoffroadarmor.com/product.php?productid=17515&cat=250&page=1 

 

 

For the track bar I would take the opportunity to replace the mount, as well. My choice would be:

 

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-STBCK&Category_Code=PFX 

 

If you ever measure up the dimensions on those rails and then post them I know many people would appreciate it.... 

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Okay I'll get on the computer some time next week and make a drawing with dimensions.

 

I was thinking that if I tied into the pinch seam that when I did hit a rock and if it did move the rocker guard it would bend or buckle the body panel.

 

If I just tie into the frame with a 3/8 gap between the rocker rail and any body part then it would give the cleanse for flex without hiring anything....

 

I love the advice and want to do this right

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If you don't tie into the pinch seam, when you do hit the rock, it'll twist the frame side all to heck, equally as bad

The pinch seam is one of the strongest points on the cab, properly tied into it and you should be able to handyman jack from the side,

now do you really want that 3/8" space to allow flex at the unibody rail tie in? Believe me you'll flip the truck over before you bend that point (reinforced/tied in)

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Got them finished up just in time for the frostbite event and boy did they do their job hhsha.

 

So I plated the frame and welded them to the plate. I got them far enough up that they Rest in the pinch seam but I didn't tie them in.

mejude2u.jpgy4y5eqyb.jpg9a5esegy.jpgdena5ura.jpgynymu2a3.jpg

 

They worked great, rock hard and that's what I wanted.

 

I will add the side steps sometime when i need somthing to do. Also I'll make one an air tank when I get a compressor.

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.....

 

 

 

Vertical welds on frame sections create stress and tear points. Probably shouldn't have done that.

 

I'm curious, whats a better way then?

Weld all the way around?

My JCR sliders bolt on, the frame side and pinch. can't really comment on their mounting as they have been in

que  (parts pile)for the last three years to go on the 87.

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The plates he did are spreader plates. They should have had 4 holes in them, one on each corner, with bolts put in and tied into pinch welds for vertical support.

 

Plating the frame involves putting a sleeve or plate front to back with horizontal welds only, and many supplemental plug welds (drill holes in the plate before attaching to frame, fill the hole with weld) fisheye or fishtail on the ends to keep a curved weld so that you do not have any verticals. Vertical welds on frames create stress points as the frame twists under pretty much any scenario. This will tear away the welds from that section, and the metal they are welded to.

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Yea but the guy I had bend it up did a crappy job so I just mounted them for a ride and planned to take them off and have them rebent.... but you know how things go and once something is bolted up and functional it gets sent to the bottom of the list..... the best armored bedrails I've seen are on H3RESQ's MJ (the grey one posted above) or Reson46's.... he added a rub rail that I really like........ by the way I like the blue paint, I have a 81 Camaro that's almost that exact color

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.....

 

 

 

Vertical welds on frame sections create stress and tear points. Probably shouldn't have done that.

 

I'm curious, whats a better way then?

Weld all the way around?

 

well, circles would be ideal.  straight lines are bad.  I fudged it a bit and nipped the corners on mine.  it's sorta round now. :D

 

 

 

but mine aren't welded on in the typical fashion.  the tubes go through the frame and are welded to both sides.

 

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Thanks for the input Pete!

 

Yours look good and it's does make sense to put the bar all the way through. Like me, you didn't "tie" into the pinch seam either. Looks like you kinda grinded em round and just have the pinch seam touching your bars. Correct?

 

 

if you look closely, you'll see I don't really have pinch seams anymore.  :(  so using them as support in any way was never an option.  but on the other hand, if I had some rust free pinch seams, there's no WAY I'd be drilling holes through them.  I live in Michigan and rust is always stalking you, just waiting for a opportunity, an opening... a weakness... 

 

don't remember what the round bars are but they were one step thicker than what is typically used in rollbars.  the square ones are 1/4" walls.  tie-in plates on the frame are 3/16" thick I think.

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