jimoshel Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 Getting ready to replace a couple ,four to be exact, master, slave cylinders on a couple MJ'S. Heard about where guys replaced, repaired their cylinders and they leaked due to inferior seals. I'm looking for recommendations on which brand names, or sources to avoid and which one are OK. Quality comes before price. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 The prevailing wisdom used to be to buy from a Jeep dealer, and nowhere else. It is my understanding that the factory no longer offers clutch cylinders for the XJs and MJs, so I have no idea what's a good brand or source now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted September 30, 2013 Author Share Posted September 30, 2013 Just ordered a master and slave cylinder from AutoZone. $100. Should be here Wed. We'll see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 You'll get a decent master cyl from AutoZone....eventually. On Maura ('90) it took me 3 to get one that didn't leak and lasted more than 6 months. Georgia ('92) is on her second AZ clutch master. First one lasted about 2 months before leaking. Second seems ok so far... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 I got some from Napa. They price-matched O'Reilly's. The cylinders were Italian. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 I got some from Napa. They price-matched O'Reilly's. The cylinders were Italian. From that Fra-gee-lay company? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 I think part of the answer with the after-market clutch hydraulics is to ignore the "experts" who say it can't be done, and use DOT-5 silicone brake fluid instead of clutch fluid. I've been running the '88 XJ with silicone in the brakes for over twenty years and in the clutch for about twelve years. No problems yet ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted September 30, 2013 Author Share Posted September 30, 2013 http://www.rockauto....app3l2v4jnmi096 I checked this site, posted by Don, and they had a dozen sources listed with prices ranging from $9.99 to $160 for a master cylinder. Several of the sites only had 1, 2 or 3 available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted September 30, 2013 Author Share Posted September 30, 2013 I think part of the answer with the after-market clutch hydraulics is to ignore the "experts" who say it can't be done, and use DOT-5 silicone brake fluid instead of clutch fluid. I've been running the '88 XJ with silicone in the brakes for over twenty years and in the clutch for about twelve years. No problems yet ... DOT-5 is the only thing I been using. Except once when I broke down and lost all the fluid. 70 miles from home, no DOT-5, Filled it with Dexron AT fluid. Got me home, and then some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oyaji Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 I think part of the answer with the after-market clutch hydraulics is to ignore the "experts" who say it can't be done, and use DOT-5 silicone brake fluid instead of clutch fluid. I've been running the '88 XJ with silicone in the brakes for over twenty years and in the clutch for about twelve years. No problems yet ... . Good call. . Unlike DOT3 brake fluid which absorbs moisture out of the air, DOT5 is silicone-based and doesn't. That alone is good enough reason to use it, besides the fact that its boiling point is something like 3 times higher. . There are 3 problems I see with DOT5. First is the price - the stuff was $32/quart last time I priced it (and it was a while ago). Next is that you cannot mix it with DOT3 fluid - so any time I am replacing major components I consider changing over to DOT5 (you're supposed to clean the DOT3 out with isopropyl alcohol and compressed air). Last is that it doesn't like fast bleeding. Any rapid agitation in the presence of air will mix tiny bubbles into the fluid, which take months to get out. Best way is to slowly back-bleed with low pressure from the bottom to the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 In the MJs (and XJs), another benefit is that it isn't corrosive, so if the master cylinder leaks and fluid bleeds onto the fuse panel, the panel isn't trashed. I think the silicone is also kinder to the rubber in the seals, as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oyaji Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 In the MJs (and XJs), another benefit is that it isn't corrosive, so if the master cylinder leaks and fluid bleeds onto the fuse panel, the panel isn't trashed. I think the silicone is also kinder to the rubber in the seals, as well. . DOT3 brake fluid isn't in itself corrosive - it's the moisture from the air that DOT3 absorbs that causes the corrosion. (For that matter, water isn't itself corrosive, but rather the dissociated ions that water picks up in solution that are.) Since DOT5 doesn't absorb moisture, you don't have that problem, which is I think the best reason to use it in a street car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 DOT3 isn't corrosive to metal. But it will completely dissolve the fuse block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oyaji Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 DOT3 isn't corrosive to metal. But it will completely dissolve the fuse block. . Most plastics are safe from brake fluid (it ships in a plastic bottle, after all). Are you saying the plastic fuse block itself will wash away in brake fluid, or just the tar backing?. . Eagle mentioned corrosiveness - I thought he was referring to the terminals of the fuse block. Anything that is corrosive will by definition carry electric current, so the fuse block terminals are in double jeopardy (as is the surrounding sheetmetal - like the floorpanel - because it is grounded to the battery). The threat of dissolving the plastic fuse block and having it puddle on the floor makes it triply bad (I had never seen nor heard of this) - quadruply so if you consider the resulting fire risk. . I guess the choice of plastic for fuse block plastic was a poor one if it dissolves like paint in contact with brake fluid. I wonder if there is a replacement alternative that would weather DOT3 - and why NHTSA never forced a mandatory safety recall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cz777 Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 a word to note stay from all advance ...this is crap http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/perfection-clutch-technovation-clutch-master-cylinder-39645/3655105-P?searchTerm=clutch+master so please don't buy ..it will leak !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue XJ Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 I picked up a set from Rock Auto, the slave would leak where the line went into it. I ended up doubling up the o-ring and it's been good so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 There was an issue from the factory when they used Girling cylinders. There was also an issue with the HOSE between the master and slave. The fluid they used reacted with the lining of the hose to form an abrasive crystalline substance which would keep taking out cylinders... Unless of course you did as they finally recommended and always replace the original hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tugalo Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 has anyone figured nout a good way to remove brake fluid from the fuse block. I just replaced my master cylinder and got a little on the block..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 You can't beat plain ole hot water and kitchen detergent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88minibitch Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 a word to note stay from all advance ...this is crap http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/perfection-clutch-technovation-clutch-master-cylinder-39645/3655105-P?searchTerm=clutch+master so please don't buy ..it will leak !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88minibitch Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 Hey tugalo I used brake cleaner and cleaned my whole fuse box and the c101 followed with compressed air,, worked fine.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 I just swapped in a LuK into mine, supposed to be as close to an OEM replacement as you can get. We'll see how it does, so far so good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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