ftpiercecracker1 Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 1989 4.0 5spd I have narrowed down the issue with the horn to the thingy inside the steering column, whatever device allows the steering wheel to turn 360* and still maintain connection. That is my problem. How do i go about replacing/fixing it? Yes my horns work Yes my relay funtions Yes I have continuity between relay and steering column BUT, When I test for continuity between the bottom of the steering column and the little button deal under the steering wheel cap i get very erratic ohm readings when turning the wheel. Thus my conclusion. I have heard it is not fun to replace it, whatever it is. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 It's not bad with a lock plate spring compressor and a good pair of c-clip pliers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 It's not bad with a lock plate spring compressor and a good pair of c-clip pliers. Got it, no horn for me. :doh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Why's that? Any parts store should be able to lend you the compressor. Hell, I bought mine new for $15. If you got really fancy you could probably make one, they're pretty basic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Pull the wheel and have a peek. There's a little wire and a spring loaded contact. Certainly within your skillset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 How the ground is applied to the relay(s) through the column depends on the steering wheel type; either the three-spoke or the basic wheel with the large horn pad. Hardware's different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 Why's that? Any parts store should be able to lend you the compressor. Hell, I bought mine new for $15. If you got really fancy you could probably make one, they're pretty basic. Ya, i guess i got a little carried away. Its just when i read what you, put . . . It's not bad with a lock plate spring compressor and a good pair of c-clip pliers. :eek: , i was thinking where in the world would i find those? How the ground is applied to the relay(s) through the column depends on the steering wheel type; either the three-spoke or the basic wheel with the large horn pad. Hardware's different. My steering wheel is the three spoke w/ the plasitc cover w/ JEEP in the center and those fake plastic allen screws. Like this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyav8r Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 Not to thread jack or anything, but what did the seats come from? Gonna have to do that black interior thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche County Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 Why's that? Any parts store should be able to lend you the compressor. Hell, I bought mine new for $15. If you got really fancy you could probably make one, they're pretty basic. Ya, i guess i got a little carried away. Its just when i read what you, put . . . >>>It's not bad with a lock plate spring compressor and a good pair of c-clip pliers. :eek: , i was thinking where in the world would i find those? You can get one at any auto parts store. They're really cheap. http://comancheclub.com/topic/37167-loose-steering-wheel-fix/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted May 3, 2013 Author Share Posted May 3, 2013 Not to thread jack or anything, but what did the seats come from? Gonna have to do that black interior thing. No idea, not my picture. Only used it for a reference, but it is sexy aint it. :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 I'm gonna have to try all of this! My horn doesnot work as well :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 I sure liked the old days better when you were allowed to just use arm signals. Then the younger generation came along and shortened it to just using a single finger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaquaro Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 I sure liked the old days better when you were allowed to just use arm signals. Then the younger generation came along and shortened it to just using a single finger. Weren't those just ladies drying their nail polish.....most confusing :hmm: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Yes my relay funtions Yes I have continuity between relay and steering column Where is the relays and how do I check the steering column relay? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 Up under your dash, driver side, most likely just above your fuse box will be two relays, one will have a white cover, the other brown (possibly black). The horn relay is the one with the white cover (no idea what the brown one is for), you can pull it off and check for voltage at the plug. You can also inspect the relay it self by removing the cover, its easy as pie once you have it pulled from the socket. Mine was corroded/rusted to absolute hell. A new one will run you 7-10 bucks, no it is not a generic relay, its special apparently. There arent any so called "steering column relays" that i know of, but there is a control box, if you will, on top of the steering column near its base. Its where all the mechanical stuff happens when you turn the key in the ignition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Up under your dash, driver side, most likely just above your fuse box will be two relays, one will have a white cover, the other brown (possibly black). The horn relay is the one with the white cover (no idea what the brown one is for), you can pull it off and check for voltage at the plug. You can also inspect the relay it self by removing the cover, its easy as pie once you have it pulled from the socket. Mine was corroded/rusted to absolute hell. A new one will run you 7-10 bucks, no it is not a generic relay, its special apparently. There arent any so called "steering column relays" that i know of, but there is a control box, if you will, on top of the steering column near its base. Its where all the mechanical stuff happens when you turn the key in the ignition. Thanks man! I will give it a look tomorrow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 Up under your dash, driver side, most likely just above your fuse box will be two relays, one will have a white cover, the other brown (possibly black). The horn relay is the one with the white cover (no idea what the brown one is for), you can pull it off and check for voltage at the plug. You can also inspect the relay it self by removing the cover, its easy as pie once you have it pulled from the socket. Mine was corroded/rusted to absolute hell. A new one will run you 7-10 bucks, no it is not a generic relay, its special apparently. There arent any so called "steering column relays" that i know of, but there is a control box, if you will, on top of the steering column near its base. Its where all the mechanical stuff happens when you turn the key in the ignition. Hey man so I could never find the little white box you were talking about. I didnt see anything that looked like what you were talking about, does anyone have a picture of it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 My horn was being touchy but the issue was the the three screws that hold the bushing plate inside were loose. All I had to do was pull of the horn button straight off and then tighten the screws and made sure the horn contact was still good. Then pushed the horn button back on. Not sure if this is your issue zack or ftpeircecracker1 but I thought id share. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 My horn was being touchy but the issue was the the three screws that hold the bushing plate inside were loose. All I had to do was pull of the horn button straight off and then tighten the screws and made sure the horn contact was still good. Then pushed the horn button back on. Not sure if this is your issue zack or ftpeircecracker1 but I thought id share. Ill try it tomorrow! Thanks man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airspeed Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 There was only one way I could make my horn work, see photo. Check continuity between the steering column and the steering shaft, your horn button grounds through the steering shaft. On my truck I would speculate that the grease had become so hard and solidified over time it turned into an insulator in both the u-joints and the shaft bearings. There are (2) u-joints on that shaft, (1) ground jumper is not shown in the photo. You could do a quick check, use a jumper cable from the upper shaft to ground. Or just ground you horn wire that is in the column to another location under the dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bornindesert Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Airspeed, thanks for posting. I think this could be my solution because everything else checks out. Didn't think about how the horn switch was grounded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 There was only one way I could make my horn work, see photo. Check continuity between the steering column and the steering shaft, your horn button grounds through the steering shaft. On my truck I would speculate that the grease had become so hard and solidified over time it turned into an insulator in both the u-joints and the shaft bearings. There are (2) u-joints on that shaft, (1) ground jumper is not shown in the photo. You could do a quick check, use a jumper cable from the upper shaft to ground. Or just ground you horn wire that is in the column to another location under the dash. Good fix! :thumbsup: I've never seen non-continuity happen through the steering shaft u-joints. This is how horn grounding happens in most any vehicle with a column horn button. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airspeed Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Note: Those are 2-56 x .187 thread forming screws. I didn't want to mess with the integrity of the shaft or the collar so I drilled small holes, ~.070" dia. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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