Ring And Pinion

[hitman72]

I am getting to the point that I want to change the gear ratio in the front and rear axle. I am getting ready to up-size to 31s and i have the feeling that is going to be to much for the 3.07s that are in it. A couple for questions while I am getting ready:

 

1) Can i get the sets from the junk yard or is it not worth it

 

2) does each Dana run the same size carrier

 

3) If i have a Dana 44 rear with the limited slip does that change anything (maybe the carrier size?)

 

4) is it worth it to have it done or can it be learned on my own, if not what would you guys pay to have it done

 

4) what would be the best ratio for a DD that needs to tow and handle off road almost every week

 

 

 

thanks

[Alexia]

1.) If you could find axles with a 3.55 ratio that would be liveable with 31" tires.

 

2.) The Dana carriers are different and change sizes at different gear ratio points.

 

3.) Just a different carrier for limited slip. It would be bolted to the new gear ring.

 

4.) Depends on your worth it. Spending $500+ on specialty tools(Bearing puller, case spreader, expensive torque wrenches) and spending one week of nights learning the process to get it right. $600 at the high end for parts if you need all new carriers for bigger gears. $200 to $400 per axle to regear.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup

 

5.) Check out the second chart on this page. 4.11 would be in a decent range for what you want and would give you room to upgrade all the way to 33" tires later.

http://www.experimentalinsanity.com/vehicle/resources/gearratios.php

[Bmoore2]

I am having mine done as we speak. I will tell you what I know.

 

The carrier changes at 3.73 gears.  I was charged for 8 hours labor for changing out both front and back. 

 

Carrier was 65.00

Gears plus install kit was around 250 

 

So you are looking at around 300 per side as Alexia said.

 

Hope this is of some help!

[hitman72]

So if i go with the 3.55 i won't have to change the carrier? and having said that as long as I find an equal size Dana I should be good to go.

 

But what about getting them from the Junk-yard? what should i look for when i bull them out?

[Alexia]

So if i go with the 3.55 i won't have to change the carrier? and having said that as long as I find an equal size Dana I should be good to go.

 

But what about getting them from the Junk-yard? what should i look for when i bull them out?

If you are planning on pulling from a junk yard you will need to swap the entire axle to avoid doing a gear setup process. Gear setup is unique to each axle. Swapping the front D30 for a different D30 with 3.55 gears from the local LKQ would be $150. Much cheaper than the $500~ for parts and regearing cost.

[92tanMJ]

Just a quick question not looking for a thread jack, how do I figure out what gears mine has?

(92 30/35 ax15 if one of you knows off the top of your head)

[hitman72]

don't know off the top of my head but there should be an identification tag on the axle that has that info on it. But the ultimate way to tell is count the teeth on ring and divide it by the number of teeth on the pinion.

[64 Cheyenne]

Learned on my own.

Used a bearing separator from HF, have to have calipers or micrometer, have to have dial indicator and stand, have to have hydraulic press

have to have setup bearings, have to have a lot of tools and a lot of patience.

So far I have done 2 D30s and 2 8.8s, both my own vehicles.

Do I suggest a novice do it, it depends.

Why I did it, because I have a lot of tools, and plan on building an engine next (unrelated), I have 2 MJs

that both needed gears, to me the knowledge of knowing how to do is is like another tool in my box.

If you have  a lot of tools, patience and the desire to learn, then I say go for it.

If your lacking any of the above, then spend the$$ and be done with it, furthermore, if this is a one time thing,

then I suggest just spending the $$.

 

Edit: did not use case spreader on any of my gear swaps.

[Blue88Comanche]

Just a quick question not looking for a thread jack, how do I figure out what gears mine has?

(92 30/35 ax15 if one of you knows off the top of your head)

the best way is to pull off the cover and count the teeth, or look for the tooth count stamp on the ring gear (it should tell you the tooth count of the Ring and Pinion gears). some times there are still the ratio tags on the axle. but most manual transmissions 4.0s had 3.07 stock

[hitman72]

I am liking the idea of just swapping out the axles and not having to deal with all the re-gearing.

 

So what years and what do i need to look for to get ones with 3.55.

 

and is there any year that would have 4.11 from the factory?

[HOrnbrod]

3.55s are plentiful. Most all MJs with the AW4 auto have them from the factory. 4.10s? Rare as hen's teeth.

[hitman72]

So it looks like 3.55 are the way to go. Any thing to watch out for when finding a doner? years to stay away from or all all of them pretty much plug and play?

 

What about the Dana 44 rear? I know getting the gears would not be hard but doing to whole axle plug and play will not be easy to find.

[mnkyboy]

Hit the pick and pulls, my brother pulled a 3.55 D44 out of an XJ a couple weeks ago for about $160.

[92tanMJ]

Oh

 

 

Just a quick question not looking for a thread jack, how do I figure out what gears mine has?
(92 30/35 ax15 if one of you knows off the top of your head)

the best way is to pull off the cover and count the teeth, or look for the tooth count stamp on the ring gear (it should tell you the tooth count of the Ring and Pinion gears). some times there are still the ratio tags on the axle. but most manual transmissions 4.0s had 3.07 stock

 

Thats what I was thinking 3.07 was stock for manuals. and I'm pretty sure most autos have 3.55s in then. I know my 8.25 under my cherokee does

[Blue88Comanche]

Hit the pick and pulls, my brother pulled a 3.55 D44 out of an XJ a couple weeks ago for about $160.

If an XJ axle is used you will need to remove the perches and shock mounts and relocate the spring perches to match the MJ width.

 

My local P&P has truck axles for $90 out the gate.

[hitman72]

Just a quick question not looking for a thread jack, how do I figure out what gears mine has?

(92 30/35 ax15 if one of you knows off the top of your head)

I was just thinking you (and i have heard it before) but you should be able to lift the front tires off the ground and spin the drive shaft with your hand. Count the turns it takes to move the tires around once. I imagine that it would be hard to tell the difference between rather close sets of gears but........ its something haha

[92tanMJ]

 

Just a quick question not looking for a thread jack, how do I figure out what gears mine has?

(92 30/35 ax15 if one of you knows off the top of your head)

I was just thinking you (and i have heard it before) but you should be able to lift the front tires off the ground and spin the drive shaft with your hand. Count the turns it takes to move the tires around once. I imagine that it would be hard to tell the difference between rather close sets of gears but........ its something haha

 

Really? Ive never heard that before, thats pretty awesome. Ill have to try that out!

[hitman72]

ya its kind of a redneck way to do it but it works.

[mvusse]

Hanging in the air, the tires may not spin at the same speed, or one may spin while the other does not. Better way is to lift one tire of the ground, spin it twice the whole way around and count how many turns the driveshaft makes:

 

just over three - 3.07

about three and a half - 3.55

just over 4 - 4.10

 

But on a front axle that only works with the vacuum disconnect connected: With the engine running, shift the transfer case into 4wd and wait for the 4wd light to come on. Then turn off the engine, play with the heater controls (move it to different positions) to bleed off left over vacuum, and shift the transfer case back into 2wd.

 

If a 92 does not have a vacuum disconnect front axle, disregard the last paragraph.

[hitman72]

regardless of the CAD lock the drivers side tire should always be connected to the drive shaft correct? So really with the CAD lock disengaged you could just lift the drivers side off the ground and spin it?

[mvusse]

No, because it will just spin the spiders gears and the disconnected shaft instead of the driveshaft. 

[hitman72]

No, because it will just spin the spiders gears and the disconnected shaft instead of the driveshaft. 

 

You are right sorry. I was just looking at the CAD write up page. I did not realize it engaged both front wheels.....? Thought it was just the passenger side. So if the CAD does not engage the truck is still in 2x4? 

 

I know this is getting off original topic but i feel it has run its course. haha 

[92tanMJ]

 

No, because it will just spin the spiders gears and the disconnected shaft instead of the driveshaft. 

 

You are right sorry. I was just looking at the CAD write up page. I did not realize it engaged both front wheels.....? Thought it was just the passenger side. So if the CAD does not engage the truck is still in 2x4? 

 

I know this is getting off original topic but i feel it has run its course. haha 

 

I believe that if it does not engage than it still is in 2x4