redwolf624 Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 Beyond checking the hoses, you've checked to make sure there aren't any hiding ports? The one I missed was coming off the bottom front of the carb. Not easy to spot in a van where you come at the engine from above and behind. Don't know your application so can't suggest blind spots. Make sure the throttle plate closes as far as it should. There should be an idle-speed adjuster screw somewhere that acts as a stop for the throttle return. Could be pushed too far out, but you've likely checked for that. Could also be a sticky choke or fast-idle. Your carb is seated and secured properly? Intake? rebuild kit sounds like a good call. Be very very careful with the metering rods when you pull apart your carb, and take a $#!&-ton of pics so you know how it goes back together. Just reread that post, and you've done all the above. The high-idle-screw-with-throttle-low-idle thing seems a lot like a fast idle/choke issue. The purpose of choke or fast idles is to help with seriously cold starts and warming up. On the van I mentioned, the auto choke was set by stepping on the gas and coming off slow. If you did that, it would engage the choke, so that when you started the engine, it would run richer and idle higher so the cold engine ran better and warmed up faster. Worked great, down to -35 it would start and run without using the block heater. It would idle at what my well-calibrated ear says is likely around 1500-2000rpm and if you so much as sneezed on the gas pedal it would drop down to "regular" idle speed, and probably die if it was cold out and the engine wasn't warm yet. If you fast-idle is set badly or your choke is messed up, it could increase idle speed. You understand I'm pretty well just making some uneducated guesses here, right? Take what I say with a grain of salt... I'm hoping some more experienced member will chime in... I'm slightly curious for my own reasons what gaskets you'd have left and why you have them left. I'd have done my best to replace all the gaskets I had replacements for. i've played around with the screw and when it gets screwed in more it shuts the engine off, i have a manual choke so i've played around with that along with combanations that we could combind with the choke and screw and still the same resualt, i have left over gaskets cause i bought the full gasket set and there's always left overs, i got 3 gaskets left, heads, and 2 funky ones, but i bought a new carb base plate gasket so that'll go on with the carb when it's rebuilt and i'm thinkin i might take a video of my carb when it's pulled apart so i know how it all goes back together and such, i'm thinkin the neddle inside the carb is stickin cause all my hoses are connected, the only hose i don't have is the air intake hose from the grille to the air cleaner, Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted May 4, 2013 Author Share Posted May 4, 2013 found out what the issue was with the carb, the throttle has play in is and the throttle plate has a hair line crack it in, needle and seat wear worn down as well, anyone know where i can get the throttle plate for a 2se carb? Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpace6a Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 I have no clue, check all your local auto parts stores, dealership, and junkyards for another one, best advice i can offer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted May 5, 2013 Author Share Posted May 5, 2013 I have no clue, check all your local auto parts stores, dealership, and junkyards for another one, best advice i can offer... dealer aint got anything later than 01, auto part stores will only sell a carb rebuild kit or new carb, one of the local junkyards one have tbi engines so i gotta call pick n pull tomorrow and see if they got anything with a carb, doubt it but it's better than buyin a 300 dollar carb, Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpace6a Posted May 5, 2013 Share Posted May 5, 2013 yea cheaper=better. my current project is machining an adapter plate for the tbi intake to bolt on a motorcraft 2 barrel carb off of a d series dodge350 with a 318. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted May 5, 2013 Author Share Posted May 5, 2013 yea cheaper=better. my current project is machining an adapter plate for the tbi intake to bolt on a motorcraft 2 barrel carb off of a d series dodge350 with a 318. cheaper aint always better, but all the cheaper stuff i'm buyin is only a temp fix, i'm gonna overhaul my whole MJ bumper to bumper, and it's gonna look show room new, Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpace6a Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 yea cheaper=better. my current project is machining an adapter plate for the tbi intake to bolt on a motorcraft 2 barrel carb off of a d series dodge350 with a 318. cheaper aint always better, but all the cheaper stuff i'm buyin is only a temp fix, i'm gonna overhaul my whole MJ bumper to bumper, and it's gonna look show room new, Redwolf Thats my plan as well...only with a diesel under the hood :mj1: :rockin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 Yeah, junkyards and performance shops are just about the only places you can get carb parts (or at least more than just floats/rebuild kits) any more, and I highly doubt that you'd find too many 2se parts at a typical performance shop, although they might know better where to look. At a pick and pull try looking at early 80's gm cars or trucks if you can't find a Jeep. S10's are likely the best candidate, imo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpace6a Posted May 8, 2013 Share Posted May 8, 2013 Yeah, junkyards and performance shops are just about the only places you can get carb parts (or at least more than just floats/rebuild kits) any more, and I highly doubt that you'd find too many 2se parts at a typical performance shop, although they might know better where to look. At a pick and pull try looking at early 80's gm cars or trucks if you can't find a Jeep. S10's are likely the best candidate, imo. Thats where I got all my 2.8 parts...S10's and GMC S15's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpace6a Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Hey Redwolf, any updates on your mj? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Clutch switch didn't come to Jeeps until 1997. Neutral safety switch only on automatic transmissions. Since when does a vehicle need stuff that wasn't available at time of manufacture to pass an inspection? Next they won't be passing 1986 Jeeps because they don't have air bags... I got a '86 with an air bag. Wish she would shut up sometimes. Drives me up the wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 I got a '86 with an air bag. Wish she would shut up sometimes. Drives me up the wall. Original post: "i just got a 1986 jeep comanche satuday and it did not pass inspection from when the last owner had it due to not havin a neutral safety swtich, but her machanic said they didn't have one, is that true or did the 86 comanche have a neutral safety switch? Also where is the engine id code is on a 86 comanche?" This thread is an airbag. Drives me up the wall. :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 haven't had time to work on the mj lately, i've been workin night shifts, i bought a used E2SE carb off ebay the other day, just for parts so once it gets here hopefully she'll be done gettin parts for a while, i plan on doin some inside work like rippin the paddin out that's holdin water and paintin it with oil bases enamble since i aint got the money for all that bed liner stuff, i'll keep the updates comin when i get more, Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 got the carb yesterday, it's a E2SE instead of a 2SE but i can still use it for parts and that's what i got it, i'm no longer workin night shifts.....yay normal sleep again, so hopefully the mj will be runnin this weekend, still a few more things i gotta do to it though but right now it's all bout the carb, Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 update: the carb is on, the air cleaner is on, EVERYTHING is on, but when i start my comanche it idols really high like 4000 or 5000 rpms then drops to a lower idiol like 1500 or 2000 rpms and that's with the manual choke on, i turn the manual choke off the truck dies, and after every rev from dancin on the gas pedal ya can hear a hissin noise from outside the truck like a vacum leak and i still have a oil leak from the rear of the engine but i have all the gaskets on but it's commin from the top rear of the engine, any ideas yall? Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpace6a Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 top rear of engine sounds like the distributor. As for the idle...carb may not be adjusted right...vacuum leak could be anything..my brake booster has a very loud leak, only reason i know its the booster is the sound changes when i brake.\ And as far as the choke, i wouldnt know, mine has an electric choke that i don't have a plug in the engine bay for....can't help there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Partly why I was asking about the distributor gasket being there before was because, as I discovered again today, it's very easy to lose them... they can get knocked off if you set them on the engine block's surface, and they can simply fall off if you slide them over the dizzy shaft. I was messing around with my timing today because I'm an idiot sometimes, and I've got the later style distributor so you have to pull it out every time you want to move it. Must have dropped that gasket ten times. Then I had everything all buttoned up at the end and went for a drive, and found it sitting on the ground again when I got back. Fortunately it's bright red... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 top rear of engine sounds like the distributor. As for the idle...carb may not be adjusted right...vacuum leak could be anything..my brake booster has a very loud leak, only reason i know its the booster is the sound changes when i brake.\ And as far as the choke, i wouldnt know, mine has an electric choke that i don't have a plug in the engine bay for....can't help there Partly why I was asking about the distributor gasket being there before was because, as I discovered again today, it's very easy to lose them... they can get knocked off if you set them on the engine block's surface, and they can simply fall off if you slide them over the dizzy shaft. I was messing around with my timing today because I'm an idiot sometimes, and I've got the later style distributor so you have to pull it out every time you want to move it. Must have dropped that gasket ten times. Then I had everything all buttoned up at the end and went for a drive, and found it sitting on the ground again when I got back. Fortunately it's bright red... i don't beleive i have a distributor gasket but it looks like the leak is comin from the distributor, i got the truck to stay runnin even when the choke is turned off, the fuel air mix was not right but i never gave it enough time to warm up like an idiot, i can't hear the vaccum leak anymore so my main issue now is the oil leak, i'm thinkin the distributor might be shot, could it leak oil if it was and also what would a distributor gasket look like if it had one, Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted May 18, 2013 Author Share Posted May 18, 2013 update: the oil leak is fixed my not so smart father forgot to put the distributor all the way down and tightin the bolt for it, now my power steerin pump srapys like a fire hose and i gotta adjust the valves, it's gettin down hopefully tomorrow, does any one know what speeds i shift into what gear on the 5 speeds? Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 Good to hear you got the oil leak fixed. For future reference, though, the dizzy gasket is usually a flat ring (like a washer) that goes around the shaft, between the mating surfaces of the engine block and the distributor housing. And unless the housing is cracked, I don't imagine you'd ever see oil coming out of the dizzy anywhere else than past the gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted May 18, 2013 Author Share Posted May 18, 2013 Good to hear you got the oil leak fixed. For future reference, though, the dizzy gasket is usually a flat ring (like a washer) that goes around the shaft, between the mating surfaces of the engine block and the distributor housing. And unless the housing is cracked, I don't imagine you'd ever see oil coming out of the dizzy anywhere else than past the gasket. thanks for the tip, i never did see a gasket for it but me and my father did replace the o ring on the distributors drive gear, Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted May 18, 2013 Author Share Posted May 18, 2013 new update: the power steerin is fixed, went out to the junkyard and got a power steerin line off a 94 gmc sonoma and tried usin the o rings off it, that ended up not workin so i had to put the whole newer line on and now my mj has easier steerin than my mothers 2011 jeep liberty and my fathers 2001 jeep wrangler....yay.....now i just gotta adjust the valves then it's time for state inspection, Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpace6a Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Shift points for mine are around 7, 20,35-40, and 5th is wherever after that. Just listen to your engine, itll tell you when to shift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwolf624 Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 Shift points for mine are around 7, 20,35-40, and 5th is wherever after that. Just listen to your engine, itll tell you when to shift thanks, could i do 15, 25, 35, and 45, then 55 for 5th, also i still have a high idle on start up, it went down since i changed the fan clutch but still bad, i can't think of anything, choke on or off it does it, Redwolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpace6a Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 honestly you can do whatever you want. yours may run better at higher rpms, may not. No way of knowing until you find out, but first gear for me tops out between 7 and 10 mph, id go check now for you, but my speedo isnt working atm, and I just recently swapped a full cluster in mine, so i've kind of been shifting off the tach, but still mainly by feel. 5th really comes in wherever you want it to, its your overdrive gear, and serves no purpose other than lowering rpms on the highway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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